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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 07-16-2012, 05:45 PM   #1
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CCV Tips

I should really just title this MORE CCV Tips because there are plenty out there. Anyway, I just did the CCV replacement job on an '03 330xi. I used the main DIY out there: Figured I'd just post some more tips in case anyone else is getting into it.

- Print out the DIY. It's really, really good.

- The DIY says that a 6mm reversible ratchet is pretty essential to get to the boot hose clamp screws. This size is pretty difficult to find in a hurry so instead, I used a flexible 1/4" hand driver (Kobalt 1/4" Drive Flex Shaft Spinner, with a 6mm socket. You could also try a Chapman offset ratcheting driver ( Both worked like a charm.

- A mirror might be handy but not nearly has helpful as a good flashlight.

- Some people say you don't need to take out the DISA although from what I found, there's really no reason not to. It's two easy to get to screws and it's right on top. If you don't take it out right off the bat, you'll just end up taking it out later on after you've wasted a bunch of time.

- Labeling the electrical connectors is helpful although due to harness lengths, really not necessary. I just separated out the screws into different sections of a parts tray. There aren't that many and it's pretty easy to tell where they go (especially if you've printed the DIY). They don't come in different sizes or anything so a T-40 is a T-40. Just pick one up and put it back when you need to. The 13mm dip stick guide tube mounting bolt is the same as the power steering reservoir bolts, as well (which I unbolted just for easier access to the fuel tank breated valve bracket).

- Take out the lower boot before you remove the dipstick. The boot just gets in the way. There are some hoses in the way, too, that can just be moved out of the way. Be careful of the dipstick guide mounting bolt (13mm bolt and a 1/4" driver), it's waaay down there and really close to the main power cable for the starter. Either disconnect your battery or don't drop your wrench. As mentioned, those boots rip easily and are expensive. If you can swing it, it might just be worth replacing it outright.

- For the price, you might as well do the Valve cover gasket at this time, too. With the cabin air filter and everything out, this is a piece of cake. Dont' forget the RTV for sealing the corners and new bolt gaskets (qty 15). All the bolts are 10mm and a deep socket helps for the four center studs.

- Also, as mentioned in the DIY: "Prior to installation, practice connecting/disconnecting the parts to each other." Everything will make sense after you've done this on the floor once or twice.

For generally difficulty, this job is a pain in the neck but not as much as I expected it to be. It's along the lines of a brake caliper replacement with just a lot of bolts in hard to get to places. whole job with VCG took roughly 4 hours which I split over two days because of the heat. If you haven't done a VCG before, or are new to DIYs, add an hour or two.

2 0 0 3 | 3 3 0 x i


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Old 07-16-2012, 06:18 PM   #2
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Good tips, but I'd label the wires that go to the wire box anyways. The DISA takes 30 seconds to get out, the more space the better IMO.

Hardest part about this job is getting the flexible elbow hose though the manifold and actually connecting it to the CCV. THAT cuts you up lovely.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:31 PM   #3
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listen guys, just did mine past weekend. not as bad as some make it out. really depends, i think, on your mech. level. that being said, i read the material a few times to familiarize & bavauto has an outstanding video on youtube thats spot on, except for two things that i did that otto didnt. believe me it made a HUGE difference. 1 - remove the disa, & 2 - roll the car up onto ramp (driver side only). doing so even allows you to see the usaul pain in the azz upper ccv screw, makes removal / install easier. hose connections also. try it, worked for me.
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