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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

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Old 06-15-2012, 08:18 PM   #1
adrian8507
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My Ride: E46 325xi 2002
Red face 325xi 2002 Problems with AC please any help

hi everyone here is my issue , i bought my first car a e46 325xi 2002
now its already hot here in new york and i tried to run my AC and it is only running hot air , snowflake is on and my ventilator switch is on three blue dots,
now i bought a bottle of freon 134a refilled my system until green no further.
and still blowing hot air , now the next step i did was bleed out my radiator, nothing so far , then i realize the my auxiliary fan its not coming on when i turn my ac on .only when the car is running .i also check my pressure to see if there was a linkage but the pressure still the same .and i also check when i turn on my ac i see that my compressor is working even the clutch as well.and my temperature sensor is working and its giving me the right temperature from outside.
any help will be appreciated thanks...

Last edited by adrian8507; 06-15-2012 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:31 PM   #2
White_Knuckles
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Wow, you've covered the basics. There are diverter flaps that are stepper motor driven (you hear them moving when you shut off the car). One may not be opening the A/C duct path properly. A hot water control valve to the heater core may be stuck open? Car makers control heat-on by allowing water through the core or by diverting duct work. I'm not sure how ours operate?

The aux fan will only spin up from engine temp demand not simply activating A/C. The cooling sys. flush was ambitious. It may be a good idea to have an estimate prepared from a shop to help guide your need for chill. Could be a stupid sensor?

Post and search these type of shared (325i-325xi) questions on the General Forum. Many, many more followers.
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:01 PM   #3
adrian8507
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Thank you so much for the quick reply , about the duct ,yes I hear them when I turn off My car . What about that check will they need to remove the dashboard. Or everything can be done through underhood? .thanks again..

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Old 06-16-2012, 06:23 AM   #4
tomoyer
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Question, when you added the one can of R134s refrigerant, did you have the car running at idle, the A/C on and the A/C clutch was running? Now that the 1 can of R134a has been added, with the A/C switch on, does the A/C clutch run/is engaged with the car idling? If the clutch isn't running/engaged, it still indicts that the system is low in refrigerant. For A/C work, it is best to at least have a set of gauges so that you can see the pressures (low and high), not just take a can of R134a with its hose and hook it up and "pour" it in. A/C shops and dealerships now use a A/C "station to service A/C units since the old refrigerant needs to be reclaimed and not exhausted into the air like we used to do in the 60's, 70's and 80's. R134a systems run higher pressures than the old R12 systems, they also do not cool as well as an old R12 system (though they perform well enough to keep you cool in the heat) and R134a systems tend to "leak" more than the old R12 systems ("leaking refrigerant is the main reason that auto A/C systems also run when you have the defroster on, something the auto industry started back in the early 80's so that the clutch seal would not dry out during the period of time that the A/C wasn't used, thus allowing refrigerant to leak past the seal), the other reason that now the A/C runs when the defroster is on is that it helps remove the moisture in the cabin air faster than just warm/hot air from the heater core. It may well be worth the time and money to have it looked at by a dealer or independent that does A/C work.
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Old 06-16-2012, 07:03 AM   #5
adrian8507
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Yeah I did that I had My ac running when I refilled and the clutch was engaged and My can of 134a has a gauge to see how much pressure is going In to the system to make sure I didn't overcharge it .and if I go right now and turn My ac on the gauge will tell me that all the pressure of freon still there .so there is no leak.

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Old 06-16-2012, 10:58 AM   #6
Bobby330xi
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My AC makes a very definite sound when the compressor kicks on, a "hrmmmm" rumbling sound from the pump. I would make sure it is actually pumping when its kicking on...should make the RPMs dip a little bit.

Other than that, I agree, you really covered the basics. Might be time to take it to a mechanic and tell them everything you've done so they don't chase your tail performing the same repairs. It might need a complete flush and fill with a A/C service machine like Tomoyer said, if the pump is still functioning properly..
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Old 06-16-2012, 12:04 PM   #7
White_Knuckles
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You recharge - recovery guys are more ambitious than I. The duct flapper check would not necessarily need yanking the dash. There may be methods to test using diagnostic commands or applying power to a reachable connector to actuate. You may hear the flap(s) respond. You probably could verify A/C presence upstream of the duct system somehow. Meaning, you have to find out if the system is cooling the plenum coil before going into the duct system. Is it the system not making A/C or is it the plenum not routing cold air out?

You say still blowing "hot air". I assume it's outside air-temp not heated? Hot would be clearly a duct issue. The mag clutch can grab on the compressor but it should appear and sound like it is loading down and working. Just a click would be strange, that thing should seem labored.
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Old 06-16-2012, 12:15 PM   #8
fastjasonbmw
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You should check the water valve fuse, if blown or missing, the valve defaults open, allowing hot coolant to enter the heater core, making the a/c feel like its not cooling.

I believe its fuse #62.
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Old 06-16-2012, 03:15 PM   #9
adrian8507
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Yes My fuses are fine all of them are working .

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Old 09-03-2014, 08:39 PM   #10
2xbulldogs
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Did you find an answer to this problem?


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Old 09-04-2014, 05:33 AM   #11
325xittt
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Check your heater control valve they can fail open and allow full flow of hot radiator fluid into the heater box. It will over power the AC, I know because this happened to both of my cars this summer. Pinch off the two heater hoses (the ones running into the firewall) with a vise grip then see if you get cold air blowing. if so you know your valve is not working correctly.
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:36 AM   #12
2xbulldogs
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Thanks! I thought that was the issue after several hours of digging deep. I appreciate it


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