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Old 02-05-2012, 06:30 PM   #1
da Vinci
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Custom race seat brackets & occupancy sensor bypass

I have read on this site to use two 100ohm resistors (one 200ohm would also work, but Radio Shack was out) and one diode to bypass the occupancy sensor. I did not find great instructions hopefully this will help someone.
Disconnect the car battery.
Take out the seat and disconnect the big yellow plug. Leave the seat in a high position so you can get to the seat belt bolt off. The yellow plug is a great design and you can remove any features you want i.e. seat heater, power for seat adjustments and leave what you want i.e. occupancy sensor, SRS seatbelt.
I though it would be clean to do my bypass inside the little box. Pop open the box and strip back a little of the insulation on the white and blue wire. Install the resistor(s) and diode in series between them. .You want the stripe of the diode toward the blue wire. Wrap a little electrical tape around your work, and snap the box shut. I think this trick the SRS system so it believes there is an adult in the passenger seat. Can anyone confirm this? This would make the passenger side airbags go off in case of an accident and could be dangerous if you had a small child in that seat.
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:30 PM   #2
da Vinci
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I made some custom seat brackets that fit the Sparco 00493 sliders. I could have put a bunch of holes in them, but knew I could fit the Sparco Roadster seats in this position by making a set out of wood first. They came out clean and weigh under 3.5 lbs.
I will take a picture of the seat belt bracket in the next couple days.
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Last edited by da Vinci; 02-05-2012 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:38 PM   #3
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This is the SRS seat belt bracket.
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Last edited by da Vinci; 02-16-2012 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 02-05-2012, 11:14 PM   #4
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Lookin good!
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:07 PM   #5
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Whoa, love the brackets, is that 3.5 lbs each or for both? Any chance you're willing to make a second set? Pretty sure I'm working with the same sliders!
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:20 PM   #6
da Vinci
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Actually 2 lbs. 15 oz. for both brackets. It was just under 3.5 lbs. before cutting the extra stuff out. I felt that I needed to show off a little, so I had to add the extra mill work. I can probably make another set. I sure wish we had a mill with a tool changer. I was thinking it might be cool to machine some blanks that people could drill and tap their own holes. Many seats will not fit in the stock location and are installed away from the center of the car. I could spot drill the best location or machine registration marks into the blanks as well.
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:54 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by da Vinci View Post
Actually 2 lbs. 15 oz. for both brackets. It was just under 3.5 lbs. before cutting the extra stuff out. I felt that I needed to show off a little, so I had to add the extra mill work.
Hah! I'll say, wow... email incoming...
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by da Vinci View Post
Actually 2 lbs. 15 oz. for both brackets. It was just under 3.5 lbs. before cutting the extra stuff out. I felt that I needed to show off a little, so I had to add the extra mill work. I can probably make another set. I sure wish we had a mill with a tool changer. I was thinking it might be cool to machine some blanks that people could drill and tap their own holes. Many seats will not fit in the stock location and are installed away from the center of the car. I could spot drill the best location or machine registration marks into the blanks as well.
Awesome! Could I buy a set of the brackets for the passenger side and drill the holes myself? The Evo 2 doesn't work very well with the Sparco bracket. Very interested!
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:33 PM   #9
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Here are a set of brackets to be drilled and tapped after checking for seat fitment. There are four sets of marks, the inner most marks are the same location as the factory seats, the others are 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" and 1" further off center. These will work for the right or left seat.
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:07 AM   #10
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Sweet, did you decide you need more offset for your seat?

This seems like a simpler/cheaper design, hopefully it'll be worthwhile for you as something to sell.
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Old 02-16-2012, 10:48 AM   #11
da Vinci
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Those brackets are for someone else and he does not know what offset will be needed. I mounted mine 1/4" offset just to make sure the seat did not rub the tunnel when it was forward enough for my short legs.
The Wedge Engineering brackets are way off center.
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:30 PM   #12
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#3 post updated with seatbelt bracket photo.
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:00 PM   #13
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gonna make more brackets?
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:31 PM   #14
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We cut a bunch of the seat belt brackets. Those still need to be bent, welded and painted.
I am out of material for the seat mount brackets, but I have more on the way. Would you want them pre-drilled and theaded, or would you want some like those pictures in post #9?
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:27 AM   #15
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i would be running BRIDE seats, so as long as i can set them up to work with the universal sliders that come with the brides ill be happy. also, i want to make sure the brackets allow my seats to sit as low as possible
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:32 AM   #16
da Vinci
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What is the bolt pattern of your sliders when mounted to the seat? I would have to know side to side and front to back.
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:42 AM   #17
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ill find out
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:14 PM   #18
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Just wanted to let everyone know that these brackets are of excellent quality and fit perfectly. I highly recommend them! Pictures of my setup:


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Old 04-03-2012, 10:19 PM   #19
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you can always just pre drill a bunch of the mounting holes and then use spacers between the seat and side mount to adjust for any seat width difference.
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Old 04-03-2012, 10:29 PM   #20
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for seat occupancy sensors, you can also code this out with autologic
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