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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

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Old 10-15-2012, 09:20 AM   #21
SamDoe1
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Is there a huge cost difference? If no, just do the cold weather kit. It can't hurt.

The PCV/CCV valve is too much of a PITA to replace for it to be a PM item. I'll wait for it to actually fail before I deal with it.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:47 AM   #22
Mhnd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamDoe1 View Post
Is there a huge cost difference? If no, just do the cold weather kit. It can't hurt.

The PCV/CCV valve is too much of a PITA to replace for it to be a PM item. I'll wait for it to actually fail before I deal with it.
Ok, thanks for the advice.
It's about $180 from Bavarian.com and $150 for a regular one. The only reason I'm thinking to do it now is because I'm doing the oil filter housing gasket therefore by removing the alternator it will give me more access to the CCV regulator valve. Currently at 140k but I'm not sure if the old owner replaced the CCV?! No signs or symptoms of failing CCV!!

So my list of maintenance will be:

1- VCG
2- VANOS Seals
3- Oil filter housing gasket and Belts
4- CCV
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:58 AM   #23
SamDoe1
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Makes sense, go for the cold weather one if you're in an area, or plan to be in an area, that gets cold.
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:45 PM   #24
Kubica
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And don't take short trips in the winter where the car doesn't heat up all the way.
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:06 PM   #25
Mhnd
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Waiting for parts

Last edited by Mhnd; 10-15-2012 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:00 PM   #26
Mhnd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamDoe1 View Post
Makes sense, go for the cold weather one if you're in an area, or plan to be in an area, that gets cold.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kubica View Post
And don't take short trips in the winter where the car doesn't heat up all the way.

SamDoe and Kubica,

Did u guys update the CCV to the cold weather kit and at what mileage? I live in CT and it definitely gets in the single digit during winter season

My car vibrates when temp falls below 32F? Any reason why, do u think it's due to getting close to the life of CCV?

Last edited by Mhnd; 10-15-2012 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:06 PM   #27
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SamDoe and Kubica,

Did u guys update the CCV to the cold weather kit and at what mileage? I live in CT and it definitely gets in the single digit during winter season

My car vibrates when temp falls below 32F? Any reason why, do u think it's due to getting close to the life of CCV?
I haven't changed out my CCV yet, it still works just fine. If I do change it out, I will go to the cold weather version as it gets quite cold here.

By vibrate, do you mean at idle or while driving or what? Can you be more specific?
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Old 10-15-2012, 05:30 PM   #28
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The cold weather "jacket" around the pcv valve is a pita to fit properly. I say the oe units last ~120k-140k miles, a new fresh oe unit will outlast the life of the car
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:27 PM   #29
White_Knuckles
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The dipstick tube upgrade is needed for cars in true cold weather. In freezing cold days the small return tube, which surrounds the separate dipstick slide tube, can freeze up from normal water vapors. This clogs the crankcase return where oil can get backed up. You may notice excessive yellow/white goo under your oil fill cap or inside the valve cover. The newer tube part number is a fix. They widened the outer tube to not be as prone to freeze up. If you're diving into a CCV mission, do your research. Lots of info. out there. A clogged CCV can create blue exhaust when starting the car like bad valve seats. Oil is not returning to the pan it's getting sucked in the intake. Oil then may burn off on start up.

Only alternative is to rip the system out and install a catch-can you have to babysit. I had one in another car and IT froze up!!
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:45 PM   #30
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I haven't changed out my CCV yet, it still works just fine. If I do change it out, I will go to the cold weather version as it gets quite cold here.
+1.

If you change the oil often, and don't create condensation by taking short trips when it's cold, I don't see a reason to change it unless its leaking. I have 147k miles.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:02 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by SamDoe1 View Post
I haven't changed out my CCV yet, it still works just fine. If I do change it out, I will go to the cold weather version as it gets quite cold here.

By vibrate, do you mean at idle or while driving or what? Can you be more specific?
Vibrates on D while stopped ( brakes applied ) only at D but not N or P ...... Only when outside temp below 32 F !!
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:06 PM   #32
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^ Motor mounts.
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Old 10-16-2012, 02:04 PM   #33
Mhnd
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^ Motor mounts.
If it's motor mounts shouldn't it happen at all times and not only in cold temp?! like I said the only time it vibrates when temp fall below 32F!
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:54 PM   #34
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If it's motor mounts shouldn't it happen at all times and not only in cold temp?! like I said the only time it vibrates when temp fall below 32F!
Probably just the start. Guessing it'll get worse over time but the vibration in R and D is textbook motor mounts and maybe poor idle (ICV, O2 sensors, intake boot, dirty MAF, bad air filter, etc...).
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:48 PM   #35
Mhnd
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Originally Posted by SamDoe1 View Post
Probably just the start. Guessing it'll get worse over time but the vibration in R and D is textbook motor mounts and maybe poor idle (ICV, O2 sensors, intake boot, dirty MAF, bad air filter, etc...).
Mounts ............ I'm not sure !!
How to test if mounts?
ICV ...................Cleaned in the past
O2 sensors ..... No codes
Intake boot ...... No cracks!!
MAF ................. Cleaned in the past
Air Filter ........... New
Other vacuum leak ...... Possible

I will keep up with the maintenance

Thank you all
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:05 PM   #36
SamDoe1
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Mounts ............ I'm not sure !!
How to test if mounts? Not sure if you can, maybe someone else can chime in here.
ICV ...................Cleaned in the past Define "the past"
O2 sensors ..... No codes Doesn't need codes, not out of limit but giving an incorrect reading will give a rough idle.
Intake boot ...... No cracks!!
MAF ................. Cleaned in the past Again, what's "the past"?
Air Filter ........... New
Other vacuum leak ...... Possible Other leaks would throw codes.

I will keep up with the maintenance

Thank you all
See above.
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:02 AM   #37
Mhnd
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See above.
Past .... Checked and cleaned in the last few months.

I will search for how to check if mounts are the failure/cause?

Thanks for the feedback ....

Last edited by Mhnd; 10-18-2012 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:49 PM   #38
Mhnd
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FYI

I completed the VANOS Seals replacement and the VCG last night, everything went nice and smooth. My next items will be the OFHG and the belts
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:10 PM   #39
SamDoe1
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FYI

I completed the VANOS Seals replacement and the VCG last night, everything went nice and smooth. My next items will be the OFHG and the belts
Feel any benefit?
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:34 PM   #40
Mhnd
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Feel any benefit?
Not full benefit yet!! According to the Besian system DIY, it's going to take at least 200 miles for the new seals to bedded in before experiencing the full benefit. I noticed a small gain at the lower end torque. So far its been about 30 miles on new seals. I will report back in the next couple of weeks.

Last edited by Mhnd; 10-22-2012 at 10:03 PM.
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