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Home Improvement
Home Improvement ideas, help, DIYs, and show room. Got a home improvement project you need help with or want to share. Post your project now!

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Old 10-14-2012, 02:36 PM   #21
Raymond42262
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You put a stainless steel pan under showers, but I have never seen it done with a tub.
Is that every done?

What about putting salt treated plywood under the tub in case it leaks ? I have never heard of that being done but it seems like a good idea.

Are there laws about using salt treated wood in interior applications ?
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Old 10-14-2012, 02:36 PM   #22
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You put a stainless steel pan under showers, but I have never seen it done with a tub.
Is that ever done?

What about putting salt treated plywood under the tub in case it leaks ? I have never heard of that being done but it seems like a good idea.

I always thought it would be a good idea to use it underneath all the areas that use water, like sinks, tubs, showers, washing machines etc...

Are there laws about using salt treated wood in interior applications ?
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Last edited by Raymond42262; 10-14-2012 at 02:39 PM.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:10 PM   #23
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I was just talking to a guy that used this:

http://www.finpan.com/backer-board/propanel.php

It's waterproof too.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:57 PM   #24
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Wonderboard is best for tub/ shower walls, hardi works fine but true cement board is a better job. As for showers a stainless pan is not used, you use rubber shower pan liner and fold like an envelope. For a nice job when putting up the wonder board, fur out the wall with lath strips that way there isn't a bow in the wall when wonder board goes to top of the tub. Hardi board does have it's place though, on top of subfloor w/ thin set before tile.
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:36 PM   #25
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Hardibacker now makes a board for wet applications: http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...FahQOgodfW8APw

Wonderboard sounds good too, but it also says it's not waterproof: http://www.custombuildingproducts.co...ckerboard.aspx

Either way...better than what many contractors use...just green board.
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:38 PM   #26
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Wonderboard is best for tub/ shower walls, hardi works fine but true cement board is a better job. As for showers a stainless pan is not used, you use rubber shower pan liner and fold like an envelope. For a nice job when putting up the wonder board, fur out the wall with lath strips that way there isn't a bow in the wall when wonder board goes to top of the tub. Hardi board does have it's place though, on top of subfloor w/ thin set before tile.
no no no no nono no...

The cement board is NOT waterproof, it will absorb water and bleed through to your studs and insulation creating mold. The cement board sits ON TOP of the tile flange screwed into the studs. The tub is flush with the studs.
The tile sits lower on top of flange and CB.

If you drop your cement board down past the flange it will get wet and wick water up into it.



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I agree with JonJon.

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Old 10-14-2012, 07:50 PM   #27
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JJ,
Thanks for the pic.
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:55 AM   #28
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If done with wall board above tub lip those bottom tiles will not last nearly as long as the say I have discussed, water will puddle up behind them, and pop off over time. I assure you I am not saying any of this from a google search stand point, I do it for a living, and have been called many many times b/c someone decided to use a handy man to redo their bathroom, and a few weeks later their kitchen ceiling is falling down. Certainly there are a number of ways to do something well but I assure you the pictured method is certainly not superior. Anyone in the central nj area I would be more than happy to show a fellow fanatic first hand.
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:05 AM   #29
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Caulk will prevent water from getting behind tile. If water does penetrate that's the whole reason for the tile flange. If you drop the CB too low water will wick up into it and you will have a mold issue.

I'd rather have a tile pop off (not likely anyways) than have to rip my whole wall out to fix mold issues.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:06 PM   #30
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no no no no nono no...

The cement board is NOT waterproof, it will absorb water and bleed through to your studs and insulation creating mold. The cement board sits ON TOP of the tile flange screwed into the studs. The tub is flush with the studs.
The tile sits lower on top of flange and CB.

If you drop your cement board down past the flange it will get wet and wick water up into it.


see the gap between the backer board and the tile......should that be filled with caulk or grout so water and moisture will be less inclined to enter ?
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:28 PM   #31
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see the gap between the backer board and the tile......should that be filled with caulk or grout so water and moisture will be less inclined to enter ?
Sorry, I was being lazy. I was going to post that but never got around to it.

Yea, I think that article left it out for visual reasons... but ideally, you'd be filling in that gap with thinset. Not a huge deal but it doesn't hurt. You'd also put a thick line of caulk on that piece of support wood to "lock" the tub in and provide a little dampening
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I agree with JonJon.

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Old 10-15-2012, 07:34 PM   #32
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Sorry, I was being lazy. I was going to post that but never got around to it.

Yea, I think that article left it out for visual reasons... but ideally, you'd be filling in that gap with thinset. Not a huge deal but it doesn't hurt. You'd also put a thick line of caulk on that piece of support wood to "lock" the tub in and provide a little dampening
probably........thanks !
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:50 AM   #33
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Bathroom remodeling question regarding bathtubs?

Didn't want to start a new topic. In regards to the floor, I'm putting in 3/4" plywood subfloor with cement board over that. Does the cement board go under the tub or up to it? I'm also installing a new cast iron tub.


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Old 06-01-2013, 01:16 PM   #34
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Didn't want to start a new topic. In regards to the floor, I'm putting in 3/4" plywood subfloor with cement board over that. Does the cement board go under the tub or up to it? I'm also installing a new cast iron tub.


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No reason to carry the CB under the tub, unless the front of the tub is a weird design and its easier to instead of cutting around it
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I agree with JonJon.

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Old 06-01-2013, 02:55 PM   #35
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No reason to carry the CB under the tub, unless the front of the tub is a weird design and its easier to instead of cutting around it
So should I shim up the tub the equivalent? 1/2" backboard = 1/2" plywood? or does the backerboard "lock in" the tub?
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Old 06-01-2013, 10:32 PM   #36
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So should I shim up the tub the equivalent? 1/2" backboard = 1/2" plywood? or does the backerboard "lock in" the tub?
Cast iron tub is a out 4-500 pounds. Gravity will do fine on its on so it doesn't move. Bead of caulk under tile flange also helps. It's amazing how much caulk will make things stay put. Id place the tub directly on plywood (a little sand-mix cement under the feet as you level it doesn't hurt to prevent any gaps).

When you lay your cement board, bring it right to the tub apron.
When tiling, leave about an 1/8" gap and fill with color matched caulk, not grout (it'll crack)
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I agree with JonJon.

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Old 06-03-2013, 03:13 PM   #37
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Cast iron beats fiberglass any day. Have someone come in and refinish it in-place in any color you want.
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Old 06-04-2013, 11:21 PM   #38
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Cast iron tub...

When you lay your cement board...
Thanks for the tips.

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Cast iron beats fiberglass any day. Have someone come in and refinish it in-place in any color you want.
The old one is gone, gave it to a guy that collects metal. From my research it cost about $200-300 to have someone refinish it, not worth it to me. New Kholer Villager cost me about $340 with a coupon.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/KOHLER-Vi...3#.Ua67mJw8DTo

My floor is about 1/8" sloped on a span of 5' (5' long metal level). Can I leave it as is or should I remedy this now before puttig down the C. board?

I also didn't realize the thinset would shrink/compress. From what I"ve read it will compress to half the size of the trowel. I was calculating 1/4" between subfloor and C.board and 1/4" for tile. My bathroom to hallway transition would end up 1/4" off.
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