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Old 11-02-2012, 05:13 PM   #1
Nico16
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Any Advice before doing my ccv/pcv tomorrow!

:d
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:18 PM   #2
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Yes. Buy band-aids.

I would also remove the alternator. While it's out, I would pull the voltage regulator and inspect that (it likely needs to be replace, anyway--if applicable)
Also I'd clean and re-seal the TB, DISA, ICV, and clean the maf. Since the belts are off, I'd recommend replacing those too as well as the tensioner pulleys (all available at your local auto parts store, most likely)
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:00 PM   #3
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You do NOT have to or do you need to remove the alternator for this job. If you're asking for advice, I'll assume that you are new to wrenching on your e46. Don't jump into too much at one time, You'll need to remove the intake box/elbows, I also removed the throttlebody and loosened/disconnected a few plugs on the wiring harness "box" under the intake manifold. I also removed the cabin filter housing to get more access. It's not that complicated a job, but can be frustrating.
Tip: There is a hose that bends up through the front of the manifold, install on the main piece first and then feed up while attached, I had a hard time connecting it under the manifold.
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:11 PM   #4
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Take your time, you WILL bleed I GUARANTEE IT, make sure to reconnect all connectors and label them, make sure to install the throttle body, icv and intake boots properly.
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:24 PM   #5
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yes especially the throttle body boot. the boot has a tab on it and can only face ONE direction. feel with your fingers where the tab should go.
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:26 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Brinkley View Post
You do NOT have to or do you need to remove the alternator for this job. If you're asking for advice, I'll assume that you are new to wrenching on your e46. Don't jump into too much at one time, You'll need to remove the intake box/elbows, I also removed the throttlebody and loosened/disconnected a few plugs on the wiring harness "box" under the intake manifold. I also removed the cabin filter housing to get more access. It's not that complicated a job, but can be frustrating.
Tip: There is a hose that bends up through the front of the manifold, install on the main piece first and then feed up while attached, I had a hard time connecting it under the manifold.
I've done this job at least 12 times this year. Trust me, removing the alternator makes things a lot easier. You will bleed... it just allows you to bleed less. You can do things the easy way or you can cause yourself more headache and blood (and time) and just take a few minutes to remove the alternator.

OP take it from us. We've bled from this. Between Jake and I, we have 9 stars. That should be enough stars! Good luck!
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Last edited by Mango; 11-02-2012 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:29 PM   #7
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Wow! Thanks for the advice! I already clean my TB and ICV, and i was supposed to the OS but i got lazy, so im doing it tomorrow, thanks guys
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:26 PM   #8
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Ccv

take your time!!! its a bit** of a job but it can be done in a few hours- the real bugger is getting the tubing reconected. Bav auto has a nice video on how to do this- see link below- if you have any questions or reach a snag just message or PM me - I always have my phone on me and E46fanatics is always running

http://blog.bavauto.com/8003/diy-vid...lation-system/

^^ def watch this at lease once- "otto" has some great pointers!
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:37 PM   #9
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Basically the same as the video but this is very useful also. I did not pull out the alternator but I can see how it would help, there is very little room to work. It is quite interesting trying to put the new pipes in, BMW definitely made it a bit difficult.

I would print this out and just go step by step.

http://blog.bavauto.com/5434/bmw-m54...30i-525i-530i/
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:51 PM   #10
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Oil the o-rings for everything that connects to the actual CCV. You'll have to connect them blindly and (at least on the one I did) the seal is incredibly tight. The combination of doing it blindly and the tight seals mean its incredibly difficult. That part alone took me quite a while. Watch the BavAuto DIYs a couple times. It's good when it comes to the basics of the job.

Oh and remove your throttle body and clean it while you're in there. Make sure you change the throttle body o-ring if you take it out.

Luckily my car doesn't have a CCV like the M54 Mine is similar to the ///M.
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:54 PM   #11
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Wow! Thanks for the advice! I already clean my TB and ICV, and i was supposed to the OS but i got lazy, so im doing it tomorrow, thanks guys
I did my CCV and TB and ICV for the first time last summer and took my time and never rushed any step. Not that overwhelming as the legend tells it. No cuts, nothing broken, parts all fit well and had no cuts as a result. Engine started first time after and never looked back!

Really helps get the car to a better height if you do the job with the car up on ramps. Ignore at your own back ache peril!

Never removed the alternator and it did not get in the way.

Lubed all the O-rings with silicone O-ring lube.

Last edited by Stinger9; 11-02-2012 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:57 PM   #12
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Yeah, and i have the the cable tb, so its gonna be different but i did a research how to remove it,
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:03 PM   #13
Nico16
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Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
I did my CCV and TB and ICV for the first time last summer and took my time and never rushed any step. Not that overwhelming as the legend tells it. No cuts, nothing broken, parts all fit well and had no cuts as a result. Engine started first time after and never looked back!

Really helps get the car to a better height if you do the job with the car up on ramps. Ignore at your own back ache peril!

Never removed the alternator and it did not get in the way.

Lubed all the O-rings with silicone O-ring lube.
My back hurts too, after cleaning the TB and ICV, its pain in the back
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:03 PM   #14
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I've read here where a few people got hung up with the throttle body electrical connection (myself included when I did my ccv). Maybe your familiar with it, but if not ... http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/04/35/75. You got some great advice OP, you'll be fine
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:05 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
I did my CCV and TB and ICV for the first time last summer and took my time and never rushed any step. Not that overwhelming as the legend tells it. No cuts, nothing broken, parts all fit well and had no cuts as a result. Engine started first time after and never looked back!

Really helps get the car to a better height if you do the job with the car up on ramps. Ignore at your own back ache peril!

Never removed the alternator and it did not get in the way.

Lubed all the O-rings with silicone O-ring lube.
+1 comfort is the key, also a good pair of shoes will do your back wonders.

I would unbolt the under trays first as you will most likely drop at least 1 bolt or socket, and they are no fun to pick off the tray from the engine compartment.
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:09 PM   #16
Nico16
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I've read here where a few people got hung up with the throttle body electrical connection (myself included when I did my ccv). Maybe your familiar with it, but if not ... http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/04/35/75. You got some great advice OP, you'll be fine
Question, i dont have the equipment reset the adaptation of the TB, do i really need to do it?
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:29 PM   #17
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I didn't do any reset of the TB...don't think your tb needs it...if it's a cable like mine. I didn't remove tb for ccv though, not as I recall. Did I?

Also, I didn't bleed, but maybe I did it the wrong way! Next time, I'll be sure to bleed!

My tip would be to have magnetic bit for the ccv screws...or use dumdum/window weld or grease to hold that one screw on the left of valve.

Also, practice assembling vent hose to valve before trying to connect them behind the intake mani.

Not too bad a job at all. Oh, 6 o-rings for the intake air runner too (probably good idea) and for the guide tube (sure you know about that).

GL!
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:49 PM   #18
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Question, i dont have the equipment reset the adaptation of the TB, do i really need to do it?
Some say moving the throttle plate disturbs the setting and requires you to recode. Best to not pry this play any more than absolutely necessary. Clean from both sides with spray and gently wipe black away.
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:57 PM   #19
Nico16
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Hey guys, it's done. Thanks for all the advice, after 7 hours of pain plus adjusting the throttle cable, I'm idling at 2000rpm. The good part is I fixed it.
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:09 PM   #20
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2000?
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