VANOS seals yes or no?

My car (2004 330xi) is due for VCG and Oil filter housing gasket due to oil leaks, should I do the VANOS seals even though there are no signs or symptoms of failure and no codes? Recently I've been experiencing a lower torque (lack of power) in the lower RPM! Will i gain the lost torque in the lower RPM if VANOS is done? The car has 142K, had it for two years now and no history of prior maintenance! The car had 124k when I bought it. Any advice will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mhnd

Do the seals. For $60, why not?

Don't know if it'll help your power loss or not but it certainly can't hurt...unless you fvck it up.

If you are experiencing lower torque down low then also check your DISA valve for proper operation.

Change them along with everything listed in the DIY on their site.

Originally Posted by SamDoe1

Do the seals. For $60, why not?

Don't know if it'll help your power loss or not but it certainly can't hurt...unless you fvck it up.

If you are experiencing lower torque down low then also check your DISA valve for proper operation.

How can I check the DISA, any DIY?

Thanks!

Yes!

I'd say it's pretty likely that your seals are not functioning properly. Either way though for 60 bucks there is no reason not to do it, unless you are afraid of screwing something up.

I just did seals and while I'm not a big fan of the butt dyno it seems to be pulling harder down low.

Either DIY the seals yourself, or pick up a refurbed unit from Dr. Vanos. When we pulled my seals out, they were brittle, but not broken. Initially, I didn't notice a HP difference, but over a few weeks, the car seemed to feel stronger. I don't have any dyno proof of it though.

Looking at the DIY it doesn't look like a very complicated job to do and no special tools are required so I might just have to do it and get it off the maintenance list

I did my starter just about two weeks ago which took about 6 hours to complete all from above so hopefully this won't be as bad !!

Originally Posted by Mhnd

How can I check the DISA, any DIY?

Thanks!

Pull the DISA out, check that the flap isn't well...flapping around freely. It should be tight and return to it's neutral position when pressure is released. I don't remember if neutral is open or closed.

Originally Posted by SamDoe1

Pull the DISA out, check that the flap isn't well...flapping around freely. It should be tight and return to it's neutral position when pressure is released. I don't remember if neutral is open or closed.

Will do, thanks!

I vote yes. Best to time it with a mechanical to electric fan retrofit and a replacement of a valve cover gasket.

Originally Posted by xi_ter

I vote yes. Best to time it with a mechanical to electric fan retrofit and a replacement of a valve cover gasket.

what will be the advantage of the fan swap? I will do the VCG and the OFHG at the same time though but I'm not sure if I want to replace the mechanical fan to an electrical one !!

Originally Posted by Mhnd

what will be the advantage of the fan swap? I will do the VCG and the OFHG at the same time though but I'm not sure if I want to replace the mechanical fan to an electrical one !!

1.) You will never need a fan clutch tool ever again.
2.) You never have to worry about fan clutch going out.
3.) You can be cool like the MT guys.

if your pcv hasn't been done yet, i'd recommend doing it as well, it's easier with the alternator off. Also if you're yanking the disa valve, grab an aftermarket o-ring for it (rocket seals sell them i think, do a google search for the exact part), they often leak and cause fuel trims to go south. FWIW my car picked up a good bit of mid-range after doing the vanos rebuild.

Originally Posted by SamDoe1

1.) You will never need a fan clutch tool ever again.
2.) You never have to worry about fan clutch going out.
3.) You can be cool like the MT guys.

Thanks for info I will add it to my do list ......

Originally Posted by redbull 325is

if your pcv hasn't been done yet, i'd recommend doing it as well, it's easier with the alternator off. Also if you're yanking the disa valve, grab an aftermarket o-ring for it (rocket seals sell them i think, do a google search for the exact part), they often leak and cause fuel trims to go south. FWIW my car picked up a good bit of mid-range after doing the vanos rebuild.

I haven't done the PCV and not sure if the prior owner did the work or not! l only had this car for two years and no records of maintenance history prior to that
My car idle is fine. What other symptoms of a failing PVC?

Thanks for the advice

Originally Posted by Mhnd

I haven't done the PCV and not sure if the prior owner did the work or not! l only had this car for two years and no records of maintenance history prior to that
My car idle is fine. What other symptoms of a failing PVC?

Thanks for the advice

PCV Valve = Positive crankcase ventilation valve

On our cars, you have probably heard it referred to the crankcase vent valve (CCV) or oil separator. You don't need to replace till you have a problem and those include excessive burning of oil and/or leaks down the lower driver's side of the engine compartment.

Originally Posted by SamDoe1

PCV Valve = Positive crankcase ventilation valve

On our cars, you have probably heard it referred to the crankcase vent valve (CCV) or oil separator. You don't need to replace till you have a problem and those include excessive burning of oil and/or leaks down the lower driver's side of the engine compartment.

Sometimes a bad pcv will not cause oil issues, but the bad membrane will allow for extra un-metered air to enter the intake manifold from the crankcase and cause the fuel trims to be off. With that in mind and how cheap they are (under $200) i'd definitly do it before the car starts misfiring like a pig and throwing cels.

Let's point out CCV is slightly more than a fast and easy change out. These systems are fussy. The thing is a plastic array of plumbing that has challenged even good DIY's. Early years have other considerations and upgrade options. Basically, It's a "catch can" recovery system that returns blow-by oil back to the crankcase. That sounds straight forward but things needing research include narrow diameter dipstick passages known to freeze and clog the return in cold weather and insulated tube sleeves added with the "cold-weather" kit. Your order may need these "fixes" with upgraded part numbers.

The parts require creative technique to install. There are several tips on pre-connecting pipes and fiddly bits to learn the feel before attempting it blind on the car. Guys have cheated the slightly warped tubeage with heat-guns to allow fitment. Others have forced things to sort of fit hoping engine heat will form them into alignment. Just sayin' this should not be represented as a quick and dirty install.

Originally Posted by redbull 325is

Sometimes a bad pcv will not cause oil issues, but the bad membrane will allow for extra un-metered air to enter the intake manifold from the crankcase and cause the fuel trims to be off. With that in mind and how cheap they are (under $200) i'd definitly do it before the car starts misfiring like a pig and throwing cels.

Do I need to upgrade the CCV to the cold weather kit? And what's the difference and gain benefit?

Thanks much!