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///M3 Forum
The BMW E46 ///M3 is the M version E46 and puts out an amazing 333 HP and 262 lb-ft of torque at stock specs! There are an amazing amount of modifications for both the coupe and convertible models so read up and get started modifying your cars today!

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Old 08-18-2012, 07:10 PM   #1
illestminimike
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Running Hot With AC

Yes I've searched. It's about 100 degrees here in SoCal. When I turn my AC in my car runs warm into the 3/4th mark. I understand it could be the fan clutch but it spins perfectly fine. It's not spinning freely or too hard. I even compared to another M3 and it's exactly the same. It only runs warm when I turn the AC on. What else could be the problem? If the fan clutch is bad would it still spin normally? Thanks in advance guys.
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Old 08-18-2012, 07:29 PM   #2
$ilent ///M
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Mike the fan clutch uses a viscous fluid which when gets warm will expand and lock the fan (1:1) check around the clutch to see if its leaking the fan will spin just not as fast if bad. But also if the a/c is on the electric aux fan will always turn on as well. check to see if it turning on when you turn on the a/c
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Old 08-18-2012, 08:18 PM   #3
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I live out in AZ where the weather gets up to 110+... my car does the same thing but only when the A/C Is all the way up ... I just took my car to the dealer for it's inspection 1. Had them look at the car , they told me it's normal for most m3 to do that in hot weather.. Is that true?
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:41 PM   #4
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Mike the fan clutch uses a viscous fluid which when gets warm will expand and lock the fan (1:1) check around the clutch to see if its leaking the fan will spin just not as fast if bad. But also if the a/c is on the electric aux fan will always turn on as well. check to see if it turning on when you turn on the a/c
Thanks man. I'll check it out. But last time I checked it looked clean and no leaks.
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Old 08-19-2012, 11:09 AM   #5
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if you want put in your m3 a 55 degree ter.

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Thanks man. I'll check it out. But last time I checked it looked clean and no leaks.
and you should think about puting in your motor ice anti-freece.. that is what the cars who track their cars put in their blocks it lowers the temp. 10 to 20 degrees that would help alot.....
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Old 08-19-2012, 01:49 PM   #6
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Was thinking about doing a coolant flush with 60 water 40 coolant and a bottle and of wetter.
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Old 08-19-2012, 02:10 PM   #7
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I noticed the same thing on my m3 last week when I drove to Northridge. the temperature dial jumped from 1/2 to 3/4 slot. It caught me off guard at first and worried since i thought my Supercharger kit may be causing an issue. eventually I realized that the temp reading only spikes in places where the outside temperature exceeds 100F. It was 110F that day out in the valley. Car runs normal otherwise. Actually I think the car actually runs cooler on account of the SC intercooler setup.
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Old 08-19-2012, 02:17 PM   #8
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^^^ yes this only happens on days when it's over 100 degrees.
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:04 PM   #9
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that is what happens to me to

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^^^ yes this only happens on days when it's over 100 degrees.
when it is in the high 90'ies with no air blowing when i turn on my a/c in 20 minutes my car beging to over heat. when im in traffic.... on highway im ok..
that is why i got the 55 degree temit. and i use the ice antifreeze... i can drive a good 45 mimutes before car begings to overheat... only in bumper to bumper traffic..... i think it is worth the cost of the ice antifreeze....
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:41 AM   #10
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be careful in changing componants to hide a problem.
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Old 08-20-2012, 01:15 PM   #11
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I live in Maryland and we had 100+ degree heat waves a few months back. Same thing happened with the temperature going over the half way. Now the temperature had dropped, temperature haven't past the half way mark.
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Old 08-20-2012, 02:01 PM   #12
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Same issue on the road and on the track. I installed the BimmerWorld oil diverter and the issue has not come back since.
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Old 08-21-2012, 02:15 PM   #13
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It was about 87 degrees today. Drove for about an hour with the AC on and no overheating. But when I got off the freeway the temp went down to the 1/4 mark. What could it be?
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Old 08-21-2012, 03:43 PM   #14
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I had the same problem in this SoCal heat a few days ago and have avoided using AC since. Hope someone figures this out soon.
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:31 PM   #15
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have you checked your coolant to water ratio or used a coolant tester to see where your protection level is at. How old is your thermostat and waterpump. condition of your belts. just a few things to look for. the coolant should be flushed about every 2 years. you can also check it with a multimeter put one lead in the coolant and one lead to ground if you get voltage i think like .1v its bad (oxidation of the metal parts inside, something like that)
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Old 08-21-2012, 10:04 PM   #16
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Just drove home. No AC cus I had the top down and it didn't even move to the middle mark. It's running cold now. I'm thinking thermostat now.
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Old 08-21-2012, 10:18 PM   #17
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Just must two cents. It only overheats with the A/C on your Auxiliary fan helps to cool the condensor if not working properly will cause overheating issues in higher temps. I'm in lower AL where the humidity is through the roof putting in the high 90-105 almost daily in the summer. Have this a lot.

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Old 08-22-2012, 01:58 PM   #18
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Why would it run cold now? It'll either run warm or cold at least once every time I drive it.
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Old 08-22-2012, 02:34 PM   #19
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2 things to check, Coolant Specific gravity to see how the coolant to distilled water ratio is doing using a tool you can find at your local auto parts store and/or test electrolysis of the coolant using a DMM.

The first will tell you or get you in the ball park of the coolants freezing point and the second will tell you how the corrosion inhibitors are doing in the Antifreeze formulation after so many miles of heat cycles.

If that is good then I would make sure the engine fan/ aux fans are working as they should when the A/C turns on.

If the thermostat is working then it should open up as set by the DME, on the highway you get airflow to the radiator and oil cooler as you speed the temps normally will stay at a constant or middle of around 90-93C

At Idle you will have the car with little airflow and this is where the engine fan/aux fans come in. As the engine sits the is no airflow so the car warms up, thermostat is open and hot coolant flows through the radiator then fans kick on and temps cool down, this cylce happens over and over while at rest/idle/at a stop until you get moving again. if the temps go above what is normal to the car then we have a coolant performance issue, lower then standard pressure in the system or we have a leak somewhere. Also remember that some oil coolers are also cooled by coolant on some factory applications and at idle the temps do go up higher at idle.

Make sure the fans are good, viscous couplings can fail and a failed fan clutch can look to be working because the fan still spins.
If temps go up at a stop sign or while idle check the fan clutch or aux fan when A/C is on. Most OEM engines are designed to operate at a certain temp range regardless of outside temperatures, if the needle is going beyond the middle then something is wrong.
My needle is in the middle on my 330ci regardless of the temp being 84C-96C
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Old 08-22-2012, 02:47 PM   #20
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Thanks a lot NIVO. I appreciate it. I'm going to play with it today.
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