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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 11-07-2012, 10:51 AM   #1
Big steve clare
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More cooling problems

Hi guys
I have got a e46 318 touring on a 2001 reg with the 1.9 m43 engine.

I was wondering if you could help me again with an over heating problem it only does it when sitting in traffic but not all the time one day it will over heat quickly then other times it won't over heat at all.
I have replace top hose bottom hose the temperature switch on the bottom hose and the temperature sender on the head 4 thermostats the water pump radiator and the expansion tank
And a electric fan,
And now the heaters are blowing out cold air and it's over heating so is that another thermostat which will be the 5th one or is it the head gasket or even worst a crack head,
Please please please can you help me.
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:22 AM   #2
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Did you bleed the system properly? Thing is very few here won't be familiar with the E46/M43 setup. So we may not be able to help. Is that Diesel or Gasoline?
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:29 PM   #3
Big steve clare
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Hi there
The car is gasoline not diesel and I bled it up like it said on a bmw forum with the ignition on and the heater on max heat but the air flow just on 2 and just keep pouring water in until no bubbles coming out of the bleed screw hole. is that the right way to bleed the system? Also after I did the thermostat and bled the system the car ran fine for 6 weeks and now the same problem. I just don't no what to do with it any more

Thank you for your response

From Steve
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:45 PM   #4
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Outside chance it's the valve for heater core acting erratically.
Cheap and easy to replace.
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:14 PM   #5
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Hi there

Can you tell me a little bit more about this valve in the heater core? Where is it, how do you change it, and what does it do? I'm really sorry I don't mind giving car jobs a go but I'm still not very experience on them yet. But we that fix my over heating as well or just my heater blowing cold air

Thanks
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:34 PM   #6
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It's #4 in this diagram. Sits under the intake boots.
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...22&hg=64&fg=18

Turns the hot water off and on to the heater core. Might not be opening when you call for heat, and might have stayed closed when you tried to open it to bleed the air out properly.
I'm just trying to think of everything as you've replaced so much already.

Last edited by Stinger9; 11-07-2012 at 09:38 PM.
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Old 11-08-2012, 04:40 AM   #7
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Thank you very much for that and it's cheaper and better to do than a head gasket. I take it if that is faulty the car will over heat sometimes as well so if I replace that it should hope fully fix both of my problems. Thank you very much for your help I will replace this as soon as possible
Thanks from Steve
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:24 AM   #8
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I'm guessing that if that valve is not working, you may trap too much air in there when filling/bleeding.
Don't overlook an erratic connector to this valve also. Intermittant contact could be a problem too.
Just reaching for ideas here.
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:06 AM   #9
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Thank you very much for your help I'll change the valve and look at the connections and see what I get from there
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:29 AM   #10
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Try the 'alternative bleeding' method I've posted here about 100 times.

I think your water valve works...and when you called for heat, coolant went into the heater core and out of the part of the system that cools the engine...

If an air bubble gets into the system, it can either block passages, or what I think happens more is that it causes the wp to cavitate and not pump coolant. In your case, I think it's pumping, but not much. You did a lot of cooling work and it was fine for a while, but then, maybe, got worse when the temps got colder and you turned on the heat.

Start with bleeding as suggested and then go from there.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:03 AM   #11
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Hi dmax
I'm not very good on a I phone so I can't find on this website your alternative bleeding process is there any chance you could copy and paste it on this chat so I can just read it and use it in the future I'm sorry to be a pain but thanks for your adive
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:04 AM   #12
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Advice even thanks Steve
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:44 AM   #13
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I assume you got my PM with alternative bleeding method...let us know where you're at after having done that.
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:17 AM   #14
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offtopic: Was the 318 even sold in US?
Over here you almost only see 318 / 320. My 330i is a rare occurrence
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:37 AM   #15
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jporter View Post
offtopic: Was the 318 even sold in US?
Over here you almost only see 318 / 320. My 330i is a rare occurrence
Wiki says only available in Europe.
If any are here, very rare. Maybe down from Canada.
Wondered why my 330Ci was stared at in Bavaria!

Each BMW body style is assigned a two digit number preceeded by "E". The "E" stands for "Entwicklung", the German word for development. The E46 is the body style for the following models (USA model listing except where noted):

316i - sedan - 1999 through 2005 model years (available in EU only)
318i - sedan - 1999 through 2001 model years (available in EU only)
320i - sedan - 2000 through 2004 model years (available in EU and Canada only)

323i - sedan - 1999 through 2000 model years
323Ci - coupe - 2000 model year only
323Cic - convertible - 2000 model year only
323iT - wagon - 2000 model year only

328i - sedan - 1999 through 2000 model years
328Ci - coupe - 2000 model year only

325i - sedan - 2001 through 2005 model years
325Ci - coupe - 2001 through 2006 model years
325Cic - convertible - 2001 through 2006 model years
325iT - wagon - 2001 through 2005 model years
325xi - sedan - all wheel drive - 2001 through 2005 model years
325xiT - wagon - all wheel drive - 2001 through 2005 model years

330i - sedan - 2001 through 2005 model years
330Ci - coupe - 2001 through 2006 model years
330Cic - convertible - 2001 through 2006 model years
330xi - sedan - all wheel drive - 2001 through 2005 model years

M3 - coupe - 2001 through 2006 model years
M3 - convertible - 2001 through 2006 model years
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:52 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Big steve clare View Post
Thank you very much for your help I'll change the valve and look at the connections and see what I get from there
You can test it out before changing the valve. I disconnected it and had someone turn the heat on and off while looking through it. If it clicks open and closed chances are it's still good.
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:28 PM   #18
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Creative suggestion!

Nice!
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Old 11-24-2012, 05:24 PM   #19
Big steve clare
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Thanks mate
I'll have a look at that before changing it
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Old 11-24-2012, 07:56 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big steve clare View Post
Hi guys
I have got a e46 318 touring on a 2001 reg with the 1.9 m43 engine.

I was wondering if you could help me again with an over heating problem it only does it when sitting in traffic but not all the time one day it will over heat quickly then other times it won't over heat at all.
I have replace top hose bottom hose the temperature switch on the bottom hose and the temperature sender on the head 4 thermostats the water pump radiator and the expansion tank
And a electric fan,
And now the heaters are blowing out cold air and it's over heating so is that another thermostat which will be the 5th one or is it the head gasket or even worst a crack head,
Please please please can you help me.
4 thermostats? Are these OE therms?

One thing you could do is remove the therm from the housing (at least I can) and you'd be making it 'broken open' which isn't great to leave that way, but much better than overheating. That would at least eliminate that issue.

It really does sound like a bleeding issue...and there are many here who have had to bleed many times. Sometimes it's user error, sometimes it's just the wrong method used to get out a recalcitrant air bubble.

If you did all this, btw, you shouldn't need to flush the system, unless you'd never done that (Guys, we'd exchanged some PMs), in which case it wouldn't hurt. If you do that, then bleed conventionally after draining...pour slowly while car is off but heater is on highest temp (key in pos 2)...i.e., follow directions in Mango's sticky.

You don't seem to be losing coolant, but confirm that carefully. You'll have hard pipes hidden under intake mani that you might get a look at with mirror and good led light. If you get enough air into system from any leak, it will build up and can lead to wp not pumping.
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