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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 11-11-2012, 01:28 PM   #21
dmax
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I think Flash is right...if it was spinning freely entirely, you'd be leaking like a sieve.

I have to remember not to argue with you, Flash...at least not in the General forum!

You'll be good, OP. Have another drainplug ready to go it.
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:05 PM   #22
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Gents,

Thank you again for imparting wealth of knowledge, ill update with pictures as soon as I can get her into shop Tuesday. Hopefully, the damage will be minimal(just a drain plug and 7qts if BMW5w30 oil =)
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:17 PM   #23
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A shop? Uh oh! Did you do the oil change yourself that got you your spinning drain plug? If so, you could fix it easily yourself, you know.
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Old 11-11-2012, 05:20 PM   #24
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Haha to explain further, I meant to take it on auto skills shop on post. $2/hr for unlimited lift and tools is legit =)
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Old 11-11-2012, 05:29 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by bluejayranger View Post
Haha to explain further, I meant to take it on auto skills shop on post. $2/hr for unlimited lift and tools is legit =)
Where r u stationed?

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Old 11-11-2012, 07:38 PM   #26
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Good 'ol Fort Benning
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:10 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flashtwosix View Post
don't get taken advantage like this bmw owner
http://www.auto-facts.org/broken-oil-drain-plug.html

one shopped quote him $400 to extract the broken bolt. another shop wanted $1700 to replace the drain pan.

plug is hollow and is design to fracture/break when is over torque. the reason why your drain plug is SPINNING FREELY is because it is broken/fracture and NOT because it or the hole is stripped.

Think outside the box and don't assume like everyone else on this thread.

you can thank me later by simply telling everyone that I am right.

I hope this helps



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instructions:

Remove the plug. The hex head piece will come off. This will leave the hollow thread.

Use an L shape Allen key. Hammer in the Allen key into the hollow drain plug. Use the other end of the Allen key to twist and remove the broken plug.

This will take u less than 5 mins.
Great info...I learned something today.
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:58 PM   #28
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UPDATE: looks like inside threading is stripped. Took it to a shop and had the mechanic pull out the bolt for me, and he couldn't get it out either. , . Not good.
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:11 PM   #29
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Weld something that you can pull on to the bottom of the plug (like small metal rod or bar across the plug) Then turn the rod and pull on it at the same time to pull the plug out as you twist it.
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:26 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by bluejayranger View Post
UPDATE: looks like inside threading is stripped. Took it to a shop and had the mechanic pull out the bolt for me, and he couldn't get it out either. , . Not good.
He thinks it's intact, not cracked? He should at least be able to put enough force on it that the bolt breaks, I'd think.

I hope he tried using pbblaster or something...welding is a decent idea, so is breaking off the end of the bolt and using an extractor/allen wrench inside.

If a woman like Flash can break her bolt, I'd think your mechanic can. Tell him to stop being a girl and get it out...then quickly say you were kidding and that you'll give him a donut and coffee if he gets it out!
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:31 PM   #31
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For the peace of mind, I'd like to have an extra oil pan with me before I pull it. Once it's pulled, and the new drain plug does not fit/tighten, I'll be SOL and without s car until its fixed =(
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:41 PM   #32
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I still don't see how breaking the head of the bolt will help at all if the threads of the bolt are stripped. I think that method is to be used if the head of bolt is so stripped that a socket can't grip it. The point is that simply turning the bolt is not allowing it to back out, its just spinning. So whether you turn it with an Allen wrench or with the hex head it really needs to be pulled on while turning it to get it to back out.

I think your best bet is welding to it so you can pull on it while you turn it.
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:43 PM   #33
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Been there done that .

You need a Tap and Die Set.
Try this before foolishly buying a new oil pan.
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:46 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flashtwosix View Post
don't get taken advantage like this bmw owner
http://www.auto-facts.org/broken-oil-drain-plug.html

one shopped quote him $400 to extract the broken bolt. another shop wanted $1700 to replace the drain pan.

plug is hollow and is design to fracture/break when is over torque. the reason why your drain plug is SPINNING FREELY is because it is broken/fracture and NOT because it or the hole is stripped.

Think outside the box and don't assume like everyone else on this thread.

you can thank me later by simply telling everyone that I am right.

I hope this helps



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

instructions:

Remove the plug. The hex head piece will come off. This will leave the hollow thread.

Use an L shape Allen key. Hammer in the Allen key into the hollow drain plug. Use the other end of the Allen key to twist and remove the broken plug.

This will take u less than 5 mins.
+1. This guy hit the nail on the head.

At least there is still SOME relevant info around on this board ....
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:49 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jared_wiesner View Post
I still don't see how breaking the head of the bolt will help at all if the threads of the bolt are stripped. I think that method is to be used if the head of bolt is so stripped that a socket can't grip it. The point is that simply turning the bolt is not allowing it to back out, its just spinning. So whether you turn it with an Allen wrench or with the hex head it really needs to be pulled on while turning it to get it to back out.

I think your best bet is welding to it so you can pull on it while you turn it.
I sort of think you might be right...but if the threads were stripped that badly, I'm surprised the bolt got all the way in...guess maybe an air gun...IDK?

But, also this...the bolt, I believe Flash is right, is made to prevent it from stripping the threads by breaking before that happens.

I wonder if it's still just the end of the bolt that's hung up and that they'd still find the broken part beneath.

I don't know how stuff like this happens so often...if you start a bolt/nut by hand, you just don't strip it...and if you use the proper tool, you'd feel if something is wrong, before it goes very wrong.

Good luck, OP...hope he got it out by now!
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:02 PM   #36
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If your set on having a pan, I have one just pm me
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:09 PM   #37
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See this thread for the same exact problem and the same exact "controversy/doubt/drama."

at the end of the day...the bolt is hollow and it was removed from using a ovesize allen key and hammer it in. it is like deja vu

thread:
http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/sho....php?p=6895012

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deep Blue View Post
STOP STOP STOP!

DO NOT TAKE OFF THE PAN!



do i have your attention yet?

the above person is absolutely right! the oil bolt is hallow. This is why oil can leak out and why you can stick a wire through.
therefore, stick/hammer in an allen wrench (hex key) and just twist the broken bolt off. it is really that easy. the hallow bolt is a bmw engineering design feature for the oil drain plug for situation that you just describd.


Again, DONT remove the oil pan unless you want to do extra work. just trust me and learn from my personal experience. PM for my phone number if you want me to walk you through the process.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bunkkaws View Post
alright it turned out that the bolt is hallow ALL the way through and thus the damn bolt was broken off into the threads.

after removing the bolt, I realized that it is pretty near impossible for your drain plug to break and fall into the oil pan. And even if it did you can easily retrieve it by removing the oil pressure sensor and sticking a flex magnet in the oil pan.

so, I pulled the broken bolt, used the flex magnet to pull out any metal shards, put the sensor back on, and flushed the system with 2 quarts synthetic and 1 quart engine flush. just waiting for the new drain plug to come in today and I am good to go.

while the car was sitting i went ahead and changed the belts and the idler pulley, so hopefully when i start her up today it won't be whining anymore from the engine

again though you guys saved my a** and wallet.

I bow to your feet ......sike. but really thanks for the help

out of curiosity, does anyone know what an oil change, both belts changed and a new idler pulley would cost if done by the stealership? I am guessing like 500 after labor maybe?

Quote:
Originally Posted by djtana View Post
deep blue, u saved my life... I, like a newb, thought i could just tighten the bolt propery... i have 2 torque wrenches, don't ask why, but my lazy ass didnt wanna take it out... well i was a fool, the bolt broke. never being in this situation i threw myself into a frenzy and tried sticking everything i could to try and pry it off with a twisting motion, after realizing the pan was my next option i gave up lol. then i did a little google search anddddd BAM... hammered in an allen key and like magic and after 2 hours of frustration prior to reading this, it came right out. quick stop to the stealership for a 8 dollar bolt, within half hour poured my oil and was off and going.

thank you so much for the help deep blue. thank god this forum doesnt toss old threads lol. im very glad i decided to do a quick search before giving up. next time, TORQUE WRENCH IT IS!
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:55 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by flashtwosix View Post
See this thread for the same exact problem and the same exact "controversy/doubt/drama."
The difference here is that his bolt is not broken but rather the threads in the pan that the plug screws into are stripped. I don't know how this is déjà vu given its a totally different situation. You know the head is still on his bolt right?
If he busts the head off the bolt and then tries turning it with an Allen key then it still won't solve the issue with the stripped threads, it will still just keep spinning. The Allen key solution is for when you break the plug and need to get it out without removal of the pan. Not for when its stripped. (Just to clarify, he is still able to turn the bolt normally with the hex head, it's just spinning endlessly, the bolt is not broken)
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:08 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by BartenderPlease View Post
Mine also had a drain bolt that was way over torqued by Breakaway Honda ...
breakaway indeed
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:45 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jared_wiesner View Post
The difference here is that his bolt is not broken but rather the threads in the pan that the plug screws into are stripped. I don't know how this is déjà vu given its a totally different situation. You know the head is still on his bolt right?
If he busts the head off the bolt and then tries turning it with an Allen key then it still won't solve the issue with the stripped threads, it will still just keep spinning. The Allen key solution is for when you break the plug and need to get it out without removal of the pan. Not for when its stripped. (Just to clarify, he is still able to turn the bolt normally with the hex head, it's just spinning endlessly, the bolt is not broken)
I asked the OP and he said the bolt was hollow.

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Last edited by flashmeow; 11-14-2012 at 07:47 PM.
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