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Suspension & Braking
Have some questions about suspension or brake setups for your E46 BMW? Get all your answers here!

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Old 12-07-2012, 03:34 PM   #21
Stinger9
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MF indicates it's a SOB of a job. Might be easy to just bite the bullet and replace the knuckle?
You're not that far away from this:
http://www.rmeuropean.com/search.asp...rd=31211096429
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Old 12-07-2012, 03:46 PM   #22
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Well, how expensive is the stuff you have to replace, if you just take a grinder to it? I'm not familiar with the Xi, but on mine I think it would be a $200 king pin. Might be a viable option.

Edit: Guess I just said what Stinger just said.
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Last edited by Wolrab; 12-07-2012 at 03:53 PM.
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Old 12-07-2012, 03:59 PM   #23
Brian's 325xi
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I guess more Important is how do I proceed with getting the parts I need in the worst and most likely case?

Is car-part the best source? Anywhere else that you know of? Speaking with the places they don't seem to understand that the XI is different saying it fits all models (although the online description indicates xi-awd)

At a minimum I need the Carrier & Strut-Correct? If buy used the internals in the carrier would be included?

If I buy new its costly and I need all the components that press into the carrier: drive flange etc (see below). Or can I reuse mine? Do I need a press?

On Real Oem I need:

Used* or New I need:

LEFT CARRIER (31216759311) $189
LEFT FRONT SPRING STRUT (31316759647) 289

*Assuming the list below comes with the used carrier

If I buy new I need the following individual components:

DRIVE FLANGE (31201096423) $111.38
ANGULAR CONTACT BALL BEARING (31221095702) $98.07
Lock Ring (07119934755) $1.63
DUST PROTECTION COLLAR (31211093696) $4.97
Collar nut (33411133785) $10.86

There's no junkyards with the parts I need here in NC that are listed anywhere but there are near my father in Massachusetts/RI I was thinking of having him check them out.

Also on car part search engines nothing is listened under BMW's nomenclature. What are some synonyms for the Carrier (aside from knuckle)? Does the strut & carrier together have a term?

You guys have been tremendously helpful. A million thanks!

Brian
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:28 PM   #24
Brian's 325xi
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Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
MF indicates it's a SOB of a job. Might be easy to just bite the bullet and replace the knuckle?
You're not that far away from this:
http://www.rmeuropean.com/search.asp...rd=31211096429
Many thanks! Those are for the rwd models-they don't carry the one for the xi. Another reason I regret buy the xi-granted I'm driving my wife's '03 325i right now while she's away so I'm thankful when its her car. Although it needs LCA's- apparently she hasn't notice ALL the telltale symptoms.
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:43 PM   #25
e46alfonso
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Should have posted this on the xi forum, rwd guys can be misleading.
This has happened to quite a few xi owners including me, you are not alone lol.
I drilled through the bolt and replaced it with another bolt, washers, and two nuts. Don't overthink things because it's not that bad, i got this done in an hour.
Don't drive the car untill its fixed or it might drop like a sack of potatoes.

Last edited by e46alfonso; 12-07-2012 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:29 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Brian's 325xi View Post
I guess more Important is how do I proceed with getting the parts I need in the worst and most likely case?

Is car-part the best source? Anywhere else that you know of? Speaking with the places they don't seem to understand that the XI is different saying it fits all models (although the online description indicates xi-awd)


Brian
All the vendors you'll ever need to know about are conveniently grouped here:

www.furiousmethod.com

And lots of them will speak BMW real well.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:34 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by fiveightandten View Post
Don't use heat in close vicinity to a strut.

There is a small centering pin on the strut that sets the clock position in the spindle. If the head snapped off the bolt, that's the only thing holding the strut in the spindle anymore. Not safe to drive.

It's only a few more bolts to remove the strut and pull it out of the wheel well. Then you can use heat until your heart is content. I would saturate the thing in PB blaster, clean off any exposed threads on the back side with a wire wheel, and have at it with that easy out after heating it. I'm not sure how much of a nub you have to work with, but people have had luck using JB weld to adhere a nut onto the end of a broken bolt. I've not tried that personally. It would have to be cleaned up with a wire wheel nicely before you tried that.
yes. the engine (1 foot away) and the brakes (5 inches away) do not get hot. yes.

you do probably have a point that heat should not be directly applied to the strut tube.
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:29 PM   #28
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Im rescinding what I just wrote-my apologies. When thinking about things, rather than physically looking, it seems that I make it more complicated.

Last edited by Brian's 325xi; 12-08-2012 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:37 PM   #29
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few thoughts

You do not need a spring compressor to take the strut out of the car.

You sound like this is not a job you should tackle with your skills.

Rent a cheap car if he job interview is so important.
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:18 PM   #30
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As Stinger9 says, you don't need a spring compressor simply to remove the strut assembly from the car. You are not dismantling the strut assembly, just removing it. You should be able to find most of the service procedures you need at http://tis.spaghetticoder.org and if you are interested in doing your own work, you should probably get a good set of repair manuals (Bentleys).

If you have deadlines breathing down your neck, there's only so much you can do with diagnosis and advice over the internet. I know whenever I'm pressed for time, the risk of my making a problem worse tends to grow... I might fix one thing and create another "fail" in the process.... Plenty of potential gotchas waiting, never documented in the online DIY write-ups.

Here's hoping your interview goes well.
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:20 PM   #31
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I just spoke to a machinist, friend of a friend, he'll get the bolt out for me-free.

*Now knowing I don't need a spring compressor.

I should (correct me if I'm wrong) just detach everything that I had to do the CV.

Detach the Strut Tower Bolts. Pry the CV out of the splined hub. If stuck pull the whole axle out of diff? Replacing this anyways.

Have him drill it out. If thread is ruined, nut on both ends.

Adequate bolt recommendation?

How does ABS sensor thread? Is it resuable?

Then just reverse with new CV?

Seems too easy?

Thanks,
Brian
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:28 PM   #32
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Believe you'll have to disconnect the ball joint and tie rod?

ABS sensor is reuseable if it is not damaged upon removal.
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:22 PM   #33
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Is there a good chance of damaging the ball joint?

If so I need to factor in the xi specific LCA. Plus line up someone to press in the LCAB into the lollipop-since they aren't available pre-pressed in like the 330i/325i.

Thanks Guys,
B
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:26 PM   #34
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Usually we just use a pickle fork to slam the ball joint out of there, but my thought is that this might be a good place to use the BMW tool that inserts and presses the ball joint out of the kingpin without damage.
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:39 PM   #35
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You have to remove tie rod, ball joint, axle nut (36mm 12 point). brakes, sensor, and the 3 strut tower nuts. Do not remove the middle nut or the spring will release.
More importantly, what axle brand are you using? what side is it?
Make sure you use a GNK axle which is oem and the best. I have used cardone remans before but they are not as reliable, everything else is chinese crap.
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:16 PM   #36
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It's a cardone. I'm aware that it may be inferior but I already have it.

I did buy the BMW: clip, Differential Seals, & fluid fill/drain washers.

Essentially I had everything off when I broke the bolt except the tower bolts & the ball joint-which Is going to be a pain.

Any tips on ball joint removal? I did a search and clearly harbor freights won't do it. I have no idea how much the BMW would be.
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:28 PM   #37
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http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

This one works pretty well on the e39, I'm not too sure about the e46.

Only downside, it's cast, not forged, so once it gets tight, you have to go really slow, tighten a turn or two, wait 15 minutes etc.

Forged versions cost 3x as much. If it cracks, HF will replace it free in 90 days. They always seem to have dozens in stock ....

Ah .... one thing. If you decide to use this tool or one like it, be sure to get the forked part snug in there. Again, I'm not sure about e46 cars (I'm only here to read about the engine DIYs ....), but on the e39s people forget to tap the fork in snug between the balljoint boot and knuckle, and end up popping out a sleeve piece together with the balljoint bolt. Not good.

Last edited by pleiades; 12-08-2012 at 03:32 PM.
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:44 PM   #38
Brian's 325xi
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Drivers Side.

I spoke to the shop that snapped the easy out in bolt. Was inquiring about a place to get the toll.

Apparently they feel bad about charging me $200.

They said they would do everything-Remove the current Strut & Carrier, Do the Axle, & Replace the Strut and Carrier with a used one. For $150 in labor.

I would need to provide a used front left carrier at a min-most likely a strut too. Any idea on used cost on these?

Thanks
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:01 PM   #39
Brian's 325xi
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Wow, I'd def do it myself if that HF puller works!
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:08 PM   #40
e46alfonso
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The harbor freight seperator tool would work fine according to some xi owners who have used it. Worst case if it doesnt release get a nut on top of the ball joint, tighten it a few threads and hit the nut with a heavy hammer, that should release it. This is how i released mine. DO NOT use the fork type seperator as it will ruin the rubber.
My cardone axle (and some other members) used to leak diff fluid, i used to refill the diff every two weeks, so keep an eye on it.

Oh and the control arm bushings, dont use oem rubber, those are terrible. I wouldnt put them on my car if a dealer installed them for free. Instead get powerflex and never worry again. Powerflex costs the same, very easy to install, are reusable, they give a great steering feel.
Ask if you get stuck with anything.
here are some videos



I wouldn't trust that shop. They might screw you again.

Last edited by e46alfonso; 12-08-2012 at 04:11 PM.
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