Help!!! Snapped Strut Carrier Pinch Bolt-Need Advice!

I guess I did the right research CV Axle-wise. Those are the exact DIY videos I Used & MillerTime's is the one I had playing while doing it. If only it went that smooth.

We will see tomorrow!

Assuming the threads gone on the carrier-what's a good through bolt (w/ 2 nuts) to use. Read somewhere that 10.9 will be impossible to find and 8.8 is sufficient.

I Know this is a dumb question but I want to make sure.

Can an Electrical Discharge Machine/EDM/Tap Disintegrator be use to get the bolt out. (By Machinist).

I'm assuming it creates Immensely Ridiculous Heat and won't work with the proximity of shock. And furthermore I don't know about in Aluminum.

Searched exhaustively online and its Ridiculous with thousands of wrong leads:

"EDM" "EDM Strut" "EDM Heat" "EDM Applications" etc:

All Honda guys talking about Clubs & Whatever"

"Electrical Discharge Machine" and "Bolt":

Wikipedia, Courses, Training, Equipment, Services w/ not enough info.

All i have found is that it works-but those are less (sometimes but not always) heat sensitive areas.

Thanks Guys

Never heard of it, did one search with "removing studs" and got this:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...px/95-Tapx.htm

What's the carrier made out of? Is it aluminum or steel? If its aluminum you can get some modeling clay and make a mini volcano around the bolt. Fill it with nitric acid, wait a bit and wash it clean. Then u can probably bust it out with a punch and hammer. If its made of steel the EDM is going to be your best bet.

OK. I have everything disassembled. CV Axle out of Carrier (A Pain), Tie Rod Detached, End Link Separated, Ball Joint Out w/ Harbor Freight Tool, ABS Separated, etc.

I have just three bolts at the top of the strut remaining. I see the green rivet type thing.

I haven't broken anything yet I think (Except CV Axle at inner joint).

What is this "tap" type this coming out of the top-at 10:00 in pic? I want to minimize damage & reuse everything.
Is this pin a reference point?

How should I drop the strut & carrier?

Thanks Guys

Brian

Originally Posted by Brian's 325xi

OK. I have everything disassembled. CV Axle out of Carrier (A Pain), Tie Rod Detached, End Link Separated, Ball Joint Out w/ Harbor Freight Tool, ABS Separated, etc.

I have just three bolts at the top of the strut remaining. I see the green rivet type thing.

I haven't broken anything yet I think (Except CV Axle at inner joint).

What is this "tap" type this coming out of the top-at 10:00 in pic? I want to minimize damage & reuse everything.
Is this pin a reference point?

How should I drop the strut & carrier?

Thanks Guys

Brian

The thing at 10:00 is the locating stud on the strut bearing.

Originally Posted by Brian's 325xi

How should I drop the strut & carrier?

All you have to do is undo the three nuts and the strut will drop out.

Got the sway bar link disconnected?
Wiring disconnected?

Are you Metallic Gray-Green? Best color on the planet for e46. Have you seen my garage?

Thanks Man. Wiring & End Link are detached.

She is Grey/Green!

So that pin at 10:00 in pick is not attached to the strut?

How much space (high off ground) do I need to pull it out. Do I need to support it or can I loosen the 3 & then hold the shock with my right hand and remove the nuts with my left?

I took out the strut myself with only two hands when I did my shocks. Just like you said.
Car does not have to be high as unit will be totally twistable.
That locator pin is not holding anything in. Just pulls out of the hole. You'll have no problem. You'll see.

Thanks Guys for All the help. I got through it although, I'm pretty sure the circ-clip didn't set. Having some knocking and thudding.

Going to pull it out and do it again.

For future people tackling this project, some advice from my experience:

It Can Be Done & It's not really that bad. Listen to these forum guys and derive confidence from them.

Tackling it is so incredibly enriching from an engineering knowledge standpoint.

If the strut carrier bolt snaps you are not screwed (order one before the job).

If you are not comfortable drilling it out-don't. If you are be wary of the use of easy-out. That T Handle Requires wisdom & experience.

Do not bring it to a shop (unless you trust there word)-just don't they will charge too much and could snap the easy (did in my case "sorry" $200).

Most Valuable Thing that I did:

Bring Whole Strut & Carrier to a Machine Shop.

Explain the deal.

For $35 the Machinist "Blasted the Bolt With a Ultra Hot Torch for an instant & blew up them bolt-whatever that means"

He advised that in doing so for such a short period of time the heat doesn't have time to significantly conduct from the 10.9 steel stud to the aluminum strut & carrier (therefore preventing damage).

The threads were mint & intact.

Had this not worked make sure the shop has a relationship with another machine shop that had an EDM Machine (aka Bolt Blaster/Bolt Disintegrator). These guys don't take awkward small jobs I think it's probably best to start with a local, inspired, owner-operated shop (travel around take a look-are they busy?/look competent?/similar jobs present?/know what an edm is?). I over think everything & accordingly spent free instants through the day going down the list in my area for three days. Then checked out the guys in the early am before work.

Another tip. When getting parts from BMW walk by the bays in & out (forget something). Spot the youngest, most ambitious looking apprentice mechanic, bum a cigarette (even if you don't smoke) give him $2 and ask what would you do/go?

Just my insight. For what it's worth!

THANK YOU GUYS!

B