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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 04-22-2012, 02:01 PM   #1
shanekhalifa99
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help with removing door PANEL

Ive searched and searched.. I have all the clips around the door out and screws but i CANNOT remove the door panel .. I need to replace my lock asap. thank you all
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:11 PM   #2
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Subscribing. Have to do my sons r/f regulator pretty soon.
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:14 PM   #3
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do i have to pop off the mirror switch also? there has got to be 1 more screw holding it on because I was pulling upwards and the hole where the door lock pin goes through is very attatched. Thanks


I just remembered that where you pull the door..Do i have to take that off some how..Its like wood grain trim
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:16 PM   #4
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This may help you

[/QUOTE]
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:16 PM   #5
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You know there are screws...

2 below the top door trim, one behind mirror switch (or plug), two below handle (under clips)...I think that's it.

Pry from bottom, work from bottom corner up and over. Then pull bottom out a little and lift up from the top to remove it. Disconnect battery 5 mins. before and leave your window closed. Disconnect wires.

You can ease the removal of the adhesive behind vapor barrier by warming it with blower...some cut with razor.

If driver side, loosen up wires going to mirror switch before reassembling...there isn't a lot of play and it's a pitb to get in if you don't get extra wire to play with.
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:17 PM   #6
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there are three torx bolts securing the front door handle, make sure you remove those....two are under the arm rest part of the handle and one is behind the mirror switch (driver side) or the blank plastic (passenger side)
The rear doors have two torx bolts only.
Once you remove these, the top of the door panel adjacent to the window sill also has push clips, work these off gently....
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:18 PM   #7
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Are you sure you have ALL of the screws? There are 3 on the armrest and one under the plastic airbag symbol (at least on the coupe). You should be able to just carefully pry it off if all screws are removed.
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:24 PM   #8
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I actually just did this... my window went down and wont come back up, so i had to pull it up manually until new regulator comes in lol
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:40 PM   #9
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I actually just did this... my window went down and wont come back up, so i had to pull it up manually until new regulator comes in lol
It is so funny that yours (a newer model than mine) stopped working, mine barely work, yet my only remaining grandparent has a 1999 Buick that the windows roll up and down like lightening still and have never have a problem. Love that German engineering.
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:52 PM   #10
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thank you all so much
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:26 PM   #11
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jstu to update this right here... after a new regulator, window motor..... comes to find out that they were all good and my switch was bad... ordering a switch
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:53 PM   #12
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jstu to update this right here... after a new regulator, window motor..... comes to find out that they were all good and my switch was bad... ordering a switch
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:45 PM   #13
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This may help you

[/QUOTE]

This
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:41 PM   #14
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Just watchd the above DIY, What if my window will not roll up more than a 1/2" ?? Is there another trick to get the window up, I tried pulling it up at the same time I roll but it gets stuck and I dont know if it is enough to get to the bolts?

Thanks guys.... ordering the parts now ...
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:00 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax View Post
You know there are screws...

2 below the top door trim, one behind mirror switch (or plug), two below handle (under clips)...I think that's it.

Pry from bottom, work from bottom corner up and over. Then pull bottom out a little and lift up from the top to remove it. Disconnect battery 5 mins. before and leave your window closed. Disconnect wires.

You can ease the removal of the adhesive behind vapor barrier by warming it with blower...some cut with razor.

If driver side, loosen up wires going to mirror switch before reassembling...there isn't a lot of play and it's a pitb to get in if you don't get extra wire to play with.
How dangerous is it dealing with the airbag???
It scares me knowing it could go off at any time.
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:44 AM   #16
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How dangerous is it dealing with the airbag???
It scares me knowing it could go off at any time.
wanna be super safe?
disconnect the battery and don't touch anything for 30 minutes.
the airbags still supposedly have a charge a short time after the battery is disconnected.

after the 30 minutes has passed, handle them with care. consider them bombs, because they essentially are.
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:30 AM   #17
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To the OP you don't specify what model you have coupe / sedan etc but this should help

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/e46/32...with_arm_rest/

Just click on the relevant document on the right.
Be very careful with the aibag screw if you have one.
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:36 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by peytonracer4 View Post
wanna be super safe?
disconnect the battery and don't touch anything for 30 minutes.
the airbags still supposedly have a charge a short time after the battery is disconnected.

after the 30 minutes has passed, handle them with care. consider them bombs, because they essentially are.
Thanks for the info!!!
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:47 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Lusticles View Post
It is so funny that yours (a newer model than mine) stopped working, mine barely work, yet my only remaining grandparent has a 1999 Buick that the windows roll up and down like lightening still and have never have a problem. Love that German engineering.
Hint: Bmw definitely knows about the problem. They don't care
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:50 PM   #20
CrazyOneToo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peytonracer4 View Post
wanna be super safe?
disconnect the battery and don't touch anything for 30 minutes.
the airbags still supposedly have a charge a short time after the battery is disconnected.

after the 30 minutes has passed, handle them with care. consider them bombs, because they essentially are.
I watched the above video and have had my door panels off before to change out my speakers.
Is there some reason why the battery has to be disconnected twice?
Once before removing the door panel and again after rolling window down.
Seems it would make more since and take less time to remove the door panel then roll down the window
to get the bolts where you need them then disconnect the battery and airbag only once.
Am I wrong ......or missing something???
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