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Old 07-03-2003, 11:11 PM   #1
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here are some speakers sizes

I started my audio upgrade and have a bit of info that will be helpful to those wishing to upgrade speakers in their sedan. My car is a 2003 325i sedan.
The door panel removal is very very easy. There are some posts already in existence which are helpful and accurate. The only thing I would add is that the removal of the panel is very easy and don't be worried about it.
Just remember that there are 5 screws that must be removed; 2 are behind the silver trim, 2 are UNDER the armrest covered by black "plugs", and the last one is behind the side mirror adjustment switch. To remove that switch you'll need 2 thin flat screwdrivers. List up one side and keep the screwdriver in there, then with the other screwdriver find a way to pry up the other end maybe even working around from the side. It will let go and then you just pull the whole assembly out and unplug it. There is a screw in there that must be removed.

The tweeter is easy to access. There are 2 black plugs that must be removed and they come out with a small, thin, flat screwdriver. 1 is near the bottome of the black strip and one is just above the door hinge. Once the pins are out you can pry the trim out. You don't have to remove it all the way. You can pull enough out to access the tweeter, that's all you need.

The speakers I used are Audiobahn ABC6002 6.5". They measure 2" from the bottom of the speakers metal "lip", when you lay the speaker flat on a table with the magnet on the table. The measurement is 2 1/4" measured from the top of the lip.
These and OEM speakers mount on the "top" side of the speaker which measures 2 1/4". I think a 2.5" will work as well as measured from the top of the speaker lip and the bottom of the magnet. I would even suspect that a 2.75" should work as well. So, anything around these measurements WILL work. There is no need to go with 5 1/4" mid bass drivers when 6.5" will work and the larger size is stock and gives MORE bass than the smaller diameter. Just make sure that the depth of the speaker you pick is within the dimensions stated above.

The OEM woofers have 3 tabs that are part of the speaker frame and those tabs are where the bolts go and hold the speaker in place. Most speakers are not made this way you'll have to fashion some mounting brackets. I used a left over license plate and cut 3 1" wide strips. I drilled one hole slightly larger than the stock mounting bolts so that the bolt will go through it easily.
I then gave it a 90 degree bend, and then another 90 degress bend in the other direction forming a type of square "S" shape. It will take a few tries to bend exactly where you need it but it works well. Once the bracket is bent correctly then drill the second hole. Even if the new speaker has 1 speaker hole that doesn't match up, you can still make a bracket that is offset using the same method.
Once the bracket pieces were made and drilled I put the new speakers metal "tabs" that are normally supplied with speakers, on the holes in the new speaker. These "tabs" allow new screw type bolts to go through one hole and catch the second hole to have something to tighten against. I inserted these tabs on the 3 holes that I selected to use.
I used the stock bolts to mount one of the holes in my homemade brackets to the OEM mounting location and I used the new screws to mount the new brackets to the new metal tabs which now hold the speakers. IOW, the homemade bracket goes over the metal tabs thus the new screws hold the bracket to the metal tab and the speaker. It's very secure and tight.

I'll try to get some picts if I can when I do the other side tomorrow, but it's pretty easy really.

The tweeters were VERY simple to do. You undo the OEM tweeters by removing 2 bolts that hold the tweeter and it's bracket. Then you can put your new tweeters INTO the hole of the OEM foam mold that goes over the stock tweeter. Once you get in there you'll see what I mean. The OEM foam is a molded piece that goes over the stock tweeter but now you can put your new tweeter in that hole and it will hold it in place. Tweeters pretty don't vibrate thus this is a very simple solution to the install. Once in the foam the tweeter is done. Run the wires down to the OEM wiring and put the trim piece back over the tweeter. Extremely easy.

I am hooked up to the OEM audio setup/amp but the improvement in sound quality is already noticeable even though the new speakers are using the stock X overs. In my setup I'll disable the OEM midrange speakers and the new woofer and tweeter will use the new X overs.

I'll post more as I run into it. I am installing a new Rockfrod 851X amplifier.
It's a 4 channel amp. The front channels will drive the front components at
110 watts rms and the rear channels will be bridged to drive a single (for now) 10" Rockford sub at 425 watts rms.

If anyone has any questions please feel free to email me and maybe I can explain things better according to your questions.

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Old 07-05-2003, 11:10 AM   #2
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I just bought component speakers as well. Audiobahn.. But, I bought the 5.25 inch ones. wished I 'd bought the 6.5.. I also need to make a bracket. I guess for the rear and the front componenents. ANy other suggestions that might help..
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Old 07-06-2003, 02:07 AM   #3
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As far as the fronts the brackets are very easy to make, just use some type of metal that is like the metal from a license plate or use an old license plate.
You'll only need to make 6 total pieces.
The way the holes line up, 2 will be almost dead on and 1 will be offset by about 1/4". You'll have to work a bit with that bracket piece. You can notch a cut between the 2 bends in your homemade bracket to give you some twist room.

Fill the space around the speaker with some "polyfill" (the stuff used for sub boxes or pillow stuffing). I didn't use the OEM rubber basket that came on the OEM speakers, but I think the bass will be a bit deeper if you do use them.

When putting the door panels back on make sure you line up the plastic clips before you smack the panel in place. If they are not aligned then the clip will break and the panel won't sit flush.

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Old 05-26-2004, 03:38 AM   #4
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Hey guys, what is the size for the rear deck speaker? Is it 6.5 inches?
Also, I heard the front speaker is 5.25 and most people say 6.5 will work too. If so, will the 6.5 front need alot of modification? thanks...
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Old 05-26-2004, 06:38 PM   #5
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Make a bracket out of MDF...trace the plastic OEM ring, mark the holes. Use 1/2 MDF.

The rear decks are the same, exact speakers as the front door woofers. You can interchange the front and rears if you wanted to. The depth is a problem in the back since the cavity where the speaker sits is shaped funny. You can cut the opening in the bottom of the rear deck and you should be able to fit just about any 6" speaker in there.
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