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Old 12-12-2012, 06:09 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Newcastle, NSW
Posts: 71
My Ride: 2002 320Ci
Faded / Oxidised Leather

The Australian sun has made a mess of my leather.

It was yellow/gold but now looks more like cream.
It is worst on the top of the back seat where it is quite badly oxidised, with the top surface of the leather flaking off.
If I clean off the oxidised leather the original colour comes up nicely underneath.
However a little bit further down where the oxidisation is not so bad, it is still bonded to the leather underneath and takes a LOT of elbow grease to get the oxidisation off.

Any bright ideas on what I can use to take the oxidised leather off?

I have been using leatherique rejuvenator oil and prestine clean.
Great stuff but I don't think it is designed to deal with oxidisation.

A re-dye is not an option. Far too much work. I also don't think it should be necessary as I can see the original colour underneath the oxidised layer - I just need a practical way of getting down to it.

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Old 12-13-2012, 04:11 AM   #2
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ponte Vedra Beach, FL / London, UK
Posts: 100
My Ride: Jaguar XKE
Photo Degradation

[: decomposition of a compound by radiant energy]

If the interior is subjected to extreme ultra violet (UV) radiation the pigmented urethane protection will begin to exhibit a common reaction, oxidation. This is the beginning of photo degradation; a common primary reaction is oxidation. Some materials absorb UV radiation more readily than other materials. Materials that readily absorb (UV) radiation are quickly damaged; rubber, vinyl, gel coat fibreglass, and many other plastics.

When radiation is absorbed, it starts to break (cleave) weak chemical bonds, which leads to (oxidation) photochemical degradation (bleaching, fading, discoloration, chalking, brittleness and cracking) all indications of ultra violet deterioration. The bond cleavages resulting from UV absorption cause the formation of "radicals." Each free radical can trigger a chain of reactions (in the presence of air), leading to more bond cleavages and destruction. These oxidizing chain reactions require no further UV exposure, just the presence of air

You may be able to remove the oxidation by lighl sanding; but usually once the urathane has been subjected to photo degradation, the only 'fix' is to replace the uathane pigmentation layer.

Ultra violet (UV) protection - 303 Aerospace Protectant - is water and will provide invaluable ultra violet (UV) radiation protection against photo degradation (fading) protection; especially in a roadster or convertible vehicles. It doesn't contain silicones, so it won't attract and capture dust. You should apply to a clean surface (it doesn't contain any cleaning agents)
It will not prevent finished leather hydration (transpiration and evaporation of moisture) as its water-based, although it coats the leather with a micro fine coating; it will not seal it per se.

Note: this product does NOT air dry. Use a second dry cloth to finish the application process. Extra buffing with at dry cloth increases bonding, repellence and durability

"Leather pigment (Dye) restoration" - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...ml#post1488560

"Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care" - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ning-care.html

Last edited by TOGWT; 12-13-2012 at 05:36 AM.
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