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General E46 Forum
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:27 AM   #61
chillinhardinanE46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tech4tech View Post
Congrats! Which dealership was this at if you're comfortable sharing that?
It was the same dealership went to initially (ill PM you the name). I just asked for a different SA. They probably already had the info from the last time I came in in my file. I mentioned the SULEV warranty last time. Also, the person that called me back from the dealership might have been a technician and not a customer service rep ... maybe. Only reason I say this is because about 2 pm I get a call from the SA saying XXXXXX(Person who called to ask me to bring the car back in) is looking at the car at the moment and ill get back to you as soon as I get an update. Around 4:30 they gave me a call saying the CAT was bad and will be replaced. I was hoping they washed my car... but nope.
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Old 02-02-2013, 06:43 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chillinhardinanE46 View Post
It was the same dealership went to initially (ill PM you the name). I just asked for a different SA. They probably already had the info from the last time I came in in my file. I mentioned the SULEV warranty last time. Also, the person that called me back from the dealership might have been a technician and not a customer service rep ... maybe. Only reason I say this is because about 2 pm I get a call from the SA saying XXXXXX(Person who called to ask me to bring the car back in) is looking at the car at the moment and ill get back to you as soon as I get an update. Around 4:30 they gave me a call saying the CAT was bad and will be replaced. I was hoping they washed my car... but nope.
is your car better now ? i hope it is
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:58 PM   #63
chillinhardinanE46
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is your car better now ? i hope it is
Im still waiting on them to call me when the part gets in. I hope that fixes my problem. If not ill have more reading to do

Ill keep you guys posted.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:58 PM   #64
chillinhardinanE46
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Update

I finally got a call back that my part was in. After speaking to the SA for a while he was able to get me a loaner car today so I dropped off my car.

By the end of the day I get a call but wasnt able to answer.

The SA states they are half way done with the job and noticed that my motor mounts are shot.(Im guessing this is where my vibration at idle is from?) He says since we have everything off it will save a lot on labor.

I wasnt able to get back to him today.

Im wondering, would it really be worth it to move forward with this? I was already looking into changing the motor mounts. I was going to buy a 2 ton crane to do it. Most of the DIY's ive seen use the jack method from below so Ill have to look around more for one that uses a crane. Would the jack method from below be more appropriate?

I know theyll try charging me a lot, but I was gonna try and get them to credit some of the money back to me, maybe through this job.

Ideas? Suggestions?

Last edited by chillinhardinanE46; 02-08-2013 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:15 PM   #65
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find out what the cost is and let us know.

If you DIY, all you need is the HF motor support that most here use:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

See the engine off the mounts:

Last edited by Stinger9; 05-08-2014 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 02-09-2013, 12:10 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
find out what the cost is and let us know.

If you DIY, all you need is the HF motor support that most here use:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

See the engine off the mounts:
This.
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:22 AM   #67
chillinhardinanE46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
find out what the cost is and let us know.

If you DIY, all you need is the HF motor support that most here use:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

See the engine off the mounts:
Stinger9 could you let me know which DIY this was i can see that the pic is the right wheel. But for some reason I am having trouble orienting myself around that pic.I just want to make sure everything is done right to not mess any other parts up. I can see that this engine support is fairly inexpensive but I dont mind getting the 2 ton engine crane since I can use it for other things. would this make things easier?

I have read that a piece of rubber needs to be put between the transmission and engine?

Last edited by chillinhardinanE46; 02-09-2013 at 04:24 AM.
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:25 AM   #68
briangl92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chillinhardinanE46 View Post
I finally got a call back that my part was in. After speaking to the SA for a while he was able to get me a loaner car today so I dropped off my car.

By the end of the day I get a call but wasnt able to answer.

The SA states they are half way done with the job and noticed that my motor mounts are shot.(Im guessing this is where my vibration at idle is from?) He says since we have everything off it will save a lot on labor.

I wasnt able to get back to him today.

Im wondering, would it really be worth it to move forward with this? I was already looking into changing the motor mounts. I was going to buy a 2 ton crane to do it. Most of the DIY's ive seen use the jack method from below so Ill have to look around more for one that uses a crane. Would the jack method from below be more appropriate?

I know theyll try charging me a lot, but I was gonna try and get them to credit some of the money back to me, maybe through this job.

Ideas? Suggestions?
My car, the engine mounts didn't look that bad, but they were shot based upon the idle (felt like I had a rough idle with how much it would vibrate) and how collapsed they were (the engine was moving so much under load that it was causing rattling with what sounded like a heat shield).

I've done the engine mounts both ways - with the HF bar and with a jack. Both are relatively easy. I went for the e9X M3 engine mounts as they're heavier duty and I couldn't be happier.

I would see how much they're charging first.
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:27 AM   #69
tech4tech
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Originally Posted by briangl92 View Post
My car, the engine mounts didn't look that bad, but they were shot based upon the idle (felt like I had a rough idle with how much it would vibrate) and how collapsed they were (the engine was moving so much under load that it was causing rattling with what sounded like a heat shield).

I've done the engine mounts both ways - with the HF bar and with a jack. Both are relatively easy. I went for the e9X M3 engine mounts as they're heavier duty and I couldn't be happier.

I would see how much they're charging first.
What's the difference between the e9x m3 mounts and the regular ones?
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:49 AM   #70
chillinhardinanE46
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$500.00 ... Ill just buy the crane.. way cheaper lol

Plus Ill end up with some nice tools in the end.

Last edited by chillinhardinanE46; 02-09-2013 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:17 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by chillinhardinanE46 View Post

Plus Ill end up with some nice tools in the end.
Always the advantage of DIY. Total cost much less with free tools thrown in.
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:13 PM   #72
briangl92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tech4tech View Post
What's the difference between the e9x m3 mounts and the regular ones?
They're made for a heavier, more powerful engine so they're heavier duty and stiffer. They also apparently last a bit longer in our application since they're designed for more than what we're putting them in.
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:14 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by chillinhardinanE46 View Post
$500.00 ... Ill just buy the crane.. way cheaper lol

Plus Ill end up with some nice tools in the end.
I used my friend's engine support bar. Takes up a lot less room considering you're probably rarely ever going to use it.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:11 PM   #74
chillinhardinanE46
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Just got new motor mounts today!

Quote:
Originally Posted by briangl92 View Post
I used my friend's engine support bar. Takes up a lot less room considering you're probably rarely ever going to use it.
I think I will be going the support bar route. Hopefully next weekend.
I am to finally get rid of those damn vibrations

Just have a few questions.

1. Is there anything extra for SULEV while doing this? TIS doesnt mention anything just want to confirm since youve done this previously.

2. Just about everywhere i have read, people install the driver side first and then put strain on the new driver side while installing the passenger.
I was thinking why not just install the passenger side first, put strain on the old driver side mount. Then just drop in the new driver side mount? I beleive these poeple where using a floor jack as way to raise/lower the motor. Would this not apply since I will be using the support bar?
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:34 PM   #75
briangl92
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Originally Posted by chillinhardinanE46 View Post
I think I will be going the support bar route. Hopefully next weekend.
I am to finally get rid of those damn vibrations

Just have a few questions.

1. Is there anything extra for SULEV while doing this? TIS doesnt mention anything just want to confirm since youve done this previously.

2. Just about everywhere i have read, people install the driver side first and then put strain on the new driver side while installing the passenger.
I was thinking why not just install the passenger side first, put strain on the old driver side mount. Then just drop in the new driver side mount? I beleive these poeple where using a floor jack as way to raise/lower the motor. Would this not apply since I will be using the support bar?
Nope, engine mounts, location, and method for changing are the same. If you're jacking up from the oil pan, apparently the oil pans are different so it's more difficult to get a solid piece to lift on.

You'll be lifting the engine up fairly uniformly. FYI, you'll need to remove your airbox so as not to stress the hoses. You'll also need a bunch of extensions and some u-joint attachments.

Take note of the heat shield placement for the driver's side mount.

What you could do is just get everything (the nuts) threaded, drop the engine, then tighten everything down. Also remember that you either need new nuts, or use loctite on your old ones.
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Old 02-16-2013, 04:26 AM   #76
tech4tech
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items to consider removing: air box, cabin filter box, fan (if auto). The lifting is gradual, so you could see what's in a way. For example, for the fan it might be ok to just unbolt the shroud, but you're risking blade damage.

Last edited by tech4tech; 02-16-2013 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:35 PM   #77
briangl92
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Originally Posted by tech4tech View Post
items to consider removing: air box, cabin filter box, fan (if auto). The lifting is gradual, so you could see what's in way. For example, for the fan if might be ok to just unbolt the shroud, but you're risking blade damage.
sorry I missed a few things. It's the same procedure as an auto M54.

The engine support bar will likely be too short for the chain to work, so what we did was put the hook directly into the lift point.

Last edited by briangl92; 02-16-2013 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:33 PM   #78
chillinhardinanE46
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Great info! Thanks a lot both of you guys!


Ill probably just remove all of that stuff to be safe.

Ive seen people put the feet of the support bar on pieces of wood. Is this to raise the bar or is to help reduce stress on the car?
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:34 PM   #79
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Probably adds to the instability. If you can make it work without, probably best.
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:35 PM   #80
briangl92
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Originally Posted by chillinhardinanE46 View Post
Great info! Thanks a lot both of you guys!


Ill probably just remove all of that stuff to be safe.

Ive seen people put the feet of the support bar on pieces of wood. Is this to raise the bar or is to help reduce stress on the car?
Most likely to raise it. I wouldn't unless you had to - you risk making it more unstable.
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