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Old 03-02-2013, 12:28 PM   #1
joshism
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Elk Grove, California
Posts: 73
My Ride: 04 330CI Convertible
Talking Capacitor, 2nd battery and isolator necessary?

So I'm wondering if it's all that necessary to include a chamber for a capacitor or an isolator in my 3D subwoofer enclosure design? I'm running 300W with a JL Audio JX500/1d amplifier and a 10W0v3-4 subwoofer. Some people might have different setups that might need both the capacitor and the isolator. The reason I'm asking is that I might try to sell a few of these on ebay or maybe on here later. If most people don't need a gap for a capacitor, then I would probably just delete it. I'm still designing a chamber for the ski-pass. I'll attach it to this later. This is for a convertible.


Last edited by joshism; 03-02-2013 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:01 PM   #2
dirty vert
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: North Texas..Dfw
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I would say that the cap and isolator are not needed.. A cap is for stiffening the bass, if our batt was up front, then you are pulling the current across the resistance of the wire being used for the amps... The bigger the gauge and finer the strands, the less the resistance. Our batt is near to where the amp would be, and the systems we would have in our cars are relatively small...no "large" systems. You might have a small increase in a thump, but I'm saying it will be minimal. I will say going with a custom built higher amperage alternator would be bennificial, not an isolator or second battery. If adding a larger alternator, upgrade the ground on the chassis of your car, and upgrade the positive to your battery. Flow the current. I've had caps, they do help if your charging system is sub par for what you are installing....but you have to be installing a much larger system.
I ran around in a F150 with a camper, walk thru 4-15's, 4-12's, 4 amps, 4-6.5" mids and 4 tweets. Wasn't as much wattage as I wanted, right around 1500 watts, but it could have used a better alternator (I killed a battery every 6-12 months with the engine running- it never could keep a charge- couldn't keep up). Keep in mind this was in my younger days of running around.. In that day wattage was much more money... Now I run a 1500 RF amp on two 10's...
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:40 AM   #3
ccaudio1
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i wouldnt add the cap to your design. secondly if someone is going to install a cap it would be as close to the sub amp as possible.

@ dirty vert.. from what i can see majority of the alternators for E46 are averaging 120 -130 amps @ 2000 rpm i believe (i could be wrong info from google search). it should be more than enough to power an decent system. i would do a upgraded battery instead ( odessey or kenetic).

use to compete in db drags for MMATS Audio and US AMPS.. if someone is going to install amps that will draw more than what the factory alt can produce plus the standard car load by all means do the alt upgrade. also most of the amps are rated at 14.4v to achieve full rated output
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:35 PM   #4
///3ME
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That is a small amp and efficient sub, you would require none of these things. My current setup is a RF1000/1 and two DVC Boston Acoustics 10"G5 at 0.5 ohms. I can't say I have a voltage drop issue.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:00 PM   #5
N4NOOK
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With quality correct sized wiring and a quality battery you will not need a cap or isolator.

I've never run either and neither have our comp cars (except for the isolator which is required to meet rules) and I an running a 1500wrms mono daily, 300w is nothing.
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