Capacitor, 2nd battery and isolator necessary? - E46Fanatics E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > BAVSOUND Mobile Electronics Forum

BAVSOUND Mobile Electronics Forum
Have all your A/V and electronics questions answered here. Ipods, A/V, Radar Detectors Oh My!
Sponsored by BAVSOUND

Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 1 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
Old 03-02-2013, 12:28 PM   #1
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Elk Grove, California
Posts: 89
My Ride: 04 330CI Convertible
Talking Capacitor, 2nd battery and isolator necessary?

So I'm wondering if it's all that necessary to include a chamber for a capacitor or an isolator in my 3D subwoofer enclosure design? I'm running 300W with a JL Audio JX500/1d amplifier and a 10W0v3-4 subwoofer. Some people might have different setups that might need both the capacitor and the isolator. The reason I'm asking is that I might try to sell a few of these on ebay or maybe on here later. If most people don't need a gap for a capacitor, then I would probably just delete it. I'm still designing a chamber for the ski-pass. I'll attach it to this later. This is for a convertible.

Last edited by joshism; 03-02-2013 at 12:33 PM.
joshism is offline   Reply With Quote
Ads by Google

Guests, get your FREE membership to remove this ad.
Old 03-02-2013, 01:01 PM   #2
dirty vert
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: North Texas..Dfw
Posts: 267
My Ride: 2001 330ci
I would say that the cap and isolator are not needed.. A cap is for stiffening the bass, if our batt was up front, then you are pulling the current across the resistance of the wire being used for the amps... The bigger the gauge and finer the strands, the less the resistance. Our batt is near to where the amp would be, and the systems we would have in our cars are relatively "large" systems. You might have a small increase in a thump, but I'm saying it will be minimal. I will say going with a custom built higher amperage alternator would be bennificial, not an isolator or second battery. If adding a larger alternator, upgrade the ground on the chassis of your car, and upgrade the positive to your battery. Flow the current. I've had caps, they do help if your charging system is sub par for what you are installing....but you have to be installing a much larger system.
I ran around in a F150 with a camper, walk thru 4-15's, 4-12's, 4 amps, 4-6.5" mids and 4 tweets. Wasn't as much wattage as I wanted, right around 1500 watts, but it could have used a better alternator (I killed a battery every 6-12 months with the engine running- it never could keep a charge- couldn't keep up). Keep in mind this was in my younger days of running around.. In that day wattage was much more money... Now I run a 1500 RF amp on two 10's...
dirty vert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2013, 02:40 AM   #3
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: california
Posts: 93
My Ride: 330i
i wouldnt add the cap to your design. secondly if someone is going to install a cap it would be as close to the sub amp as possible.

@ dirty vert.. from what i can see majority of the alternators for E46 are averaging 120 -130 amps @ 2000 rpm i believe (i could be wrong info from google search). it should be more than enough to power an decent system. i would do a upgraded battery instead ( odessey or kenetic).

use to compete in db drags for MMATS Audio and US AMPS.. if someone is going to install amps that will draw more than what the factory alt can produce plus the standard car load by all means do the alt upgrade. also most of the amps are rated at 14.4v to achieve full rated output
ccaudio1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2013, 04:35 PM   #4
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 96
My Ride: Z/71
That is a small amp and efficient sub, you would require none of these things. My current setup is a RF1000/1 and two DVC Boston Acoustics 10"G5 at 0.5 ohms. I can't say I have a voltage drop issue.
///3ME is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2013, 07:00 PM   #5
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Victoria AUS
Posts: 1,401
My Ride: 323ci
With quality correct sized wiring and a quality battery you will not need a cap or isolator.

I've never run either and neither have our comp cars (except for the isolator which is required to meet rules) and I an running a 1500wrms mono daily, 300w is nothing.
N4NOOK is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:47 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.