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Gun Talk
Are you a gun fanatic as well? If so, you'll want to talk to other owners about what you own in this forum.

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Old 01-28-2013, 04:29 PM   #81
Sentaruu
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Everything in my post has been ordered/purchased this year and is, in my opinion, mid-tier or better quality. All were purchased at reasonable prices (in my opinion). If you can't wait for things to be shipped, however, then you may be stuck paying out the ass...
i live in ny.... and i couldnt realistically see myself paying more than $500 for a stripped gen 2 and no more than that for a chainsaw or anything else considering buying them from a dealer is less than $300. i also know that at that price point i probably wont find myself with one. it is what it is. its just disgusting how many people are gouging prices.

i mean tell me its not complete bullshit that people are asking over 2k for shitty bushmaster or dpms rifles and usually end up selling it for more than asking price
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:34 PM   #82
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i live in ny....
Ah yes, you do need to move to a real state that isn't run by communists
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:38 PM   #83
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Ah yes, you do need to move to a real state that isn't run by communists
haha i wish it was that easy
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:09 PM   #84
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I apologize for not trying to put something together already for this. I'll see what I can put together tonight in bed...I feel like shit at the moment anyway so I'll crawl in, turn on sportscenter, and see what i can do.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:02 PM   #85
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i live in ny.... and i couldnt realistically see myself paying more than $500 for a stripped gen 2 and no more than that for a chainsaw or anything else considering buying them from a dealer is less than $300. i also know that at that price point i probably wont find myself with one. it is what it is. its just disgusting how many people are gouging prices.

i mean tell me its not complete bullshit that people are asking over 2k for shitty bushmaster or dpms rifles and usually end up selling it for more than asking price
Unfortunately, thats the climate right now. Stripped Noveske Gen1s are going for $500+ and Gen 2s are even more than that (usually around $700.) Supply and demand my man. If you have more than one, selling one can usually pay for you to build the other one.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:03 PM   #86
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I apologize for not trying to put something together already for this. I'll see what I can put together tonight in bed...I feel like shit at the moment anyway so I'll crawl in, turn on sportscenter, and see what i can do.
No rush man. Im taking it one step at a time. Next on the list is a LPK and a stock. What are some good brands for reasonably priced LPKs? DPMS? RRA? etc? I don't know many, so a list of brands to go by would be helpful. Also, I would like a competition style trigger (no change in resistance throughout the pull) so anything else you can recommend would be awesome.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:22 PM   #87
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Oh, based on my post above, do I want a single stage or a dual stage trigger? It seems that the best thing for a varmint would be no change in resistance, so a single stage seems ideal no?
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:35 PM   #88
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The trigger you want is really based on what you're willing to pay. I would actually recommend a 2-stage trigger for precision work like varmint hunting. The first stage allows you to take up part of the weight, then you reach that hard stop and the final sear break is done at your convenience. The best way to describe a 2-stage trigger manipulation for precision is basically like loading your brakes in preparation for a hard stop- you prime the system to get the brake fluid pressure up and start putting nominal pressure from the pads onto the rotor (first stage), and then when you go to actually hard brake, there is no delay and you have immediate brake engagement when you then put hard pressure further into the brake pedal (second stage). You can run a 2-stage quickly, or you can become deliberate for better precision when by working the stages independently.
This is why I love Geissele triggers. If you want something light, the SSA-E and SD-E triggers are ideal. They are much lighter than you would think, but they've got a definitive sear break.
One thing I will say is that Geissele is the only company making a 2-stage trigger that actually is worth using. All others are have very poor durability. Geisseles are ridiculously durable, and they're consistent. You have no "roaming" trigger pull weight. It stays the same.
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:46 PM   #89
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The trigger you want is really based on what you're willing to pay. I would actually recommend a 2-stage trigger for precision work like varmint hunting. The first stage allows you to take up part of the weight, then you reach that hard stop and the final sear break is done at your convenience. The best way to describe a 2-stage trigger manipulation for precision is basically like loading your brakes in preparation for a hard stop- you prime the system to get the brake fluid pressure up and start putting nominal pressure from the pads onto the rotor (first stage), and then when you go to actually hard brake, there is no delay and you have immediate brake engagement when you then put hard pressure further into the brake pedal (second stage). You can run a 2-stage quickly, or you can become deliberate for better precision when by working the stages independently.
This is why I love Geissele triggers. If you want something light, the SSA-E and SD-E triggers are ideal. They are much lighter than you would think, but they've got a definitive sear break.
One thing I will say is that Geissele is the only company making a 2-stage trigger that actually is worth using. All others are have very poor durability. Geisseles are ridiculously durable, and they're consistent. You have no "roaming" trigger pull weight. It stays the same.
Thank you for that writeup, most helpful. Quick followup question...I believe I understand how they function. Based on your description, the only reason to have a two stage trigger...or rather the only advantage, is to know exactly when the break is coming...similar to a high end sports car (that will tell you the limit of grip through the streering wheel) rather than a poorly designed one (that will oversteer without warning)....so having said that, will a Geissele two stage trigger give me that "going, going, about to let go, no really, about to let go, bang" feeling?
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:27 PM   #90
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RRA, Spikes, Colt, etc. etc. etc. all make good LPKs. Reedo can probably give you more insight on those, but for the most part, I think they're all pretty much the same.

I have the Geissele SD-E trigger on my semi-precision rig. It is an unbelievably good trigger. To answer your question, there is no "going, going, about to let go, no really, about to let go, bang" feeling. It is pull, STOP, BANG. There is no creep beyond the stop. It is a pure and crisp break, like a carrot. You know EXACTLY when the shot is going to be fired. Geissele makes unbelievably good triggers, just expensive ones.

Reedo, they're really the only ones that make a good 2-stage? I thought others, like KAC, were ok? The one in the SR-25 seems sweet.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:55 PM   #91
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Ok. I guess thats what I am looking for...just like my P220 Elite Match....trigger is smooth as silk then bang. Im a bit put off by the "flat" trigger....is that really a good thing, rather than a sicle shape? Also, seems like these are the cream of the crop triggers, something I would put on the noveske rifle, but is there anything close in quality for less that I can put on my spike or is this a case of go big or go home?
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:59 PM   #92
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Or should I save my money, use the trigger with the LPK, build the rifle, and THEN go from there in terms of sharpening the thing up and fixing the shortfalls....
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:24 PM   #93
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I like the flat trigger on my SBR (SD-3G) and on my semi-precision rig (SD-E), but I also like the regular shaped SSF trigger in my M16. Its really a matter of preference for the individual shooter.

Geissele makes 2-stage triggers with both designs.


As far as when to go for it, that's up to you as well. You could just deal with the mil-spec trigger in the beginning and switch
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:32 AM   #94
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Or should I save my money, use the trigger with the LPK, build the rifle, and THEN go from there in terms of sharpening the thing up and fixing the shortfalls....
That's what I would do, although I tend to like the mil-spec triggers. I always suggest, unless you are very familiar with the platform already and have a good baseline, to add components one at a time to determine if you can see any actual improvement in your shooting.

Do you have the rest of the build spec'ed out yet?
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:39 AM   #95
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Well, I'm currently waiting on 3 custom stripped lowers myself (all from Zombie Defense) from a group order with custom logo and serial numbers. My current plan is to build a "better" 16" 5.56, build a 5.56 SBR (I'm currently thinking 11.5"), and one 5.56 pistol. Each of the lowers cost me $130 (including a $10 donation to georgiacarry.org) and they should be made and delivered by April sometime.

I have a basic, and an upgraded PSA LBK on order

$206.99 for the upgraded one http://palmettostatearmory.com/index...build-kit.html
$126.99 for the basic one http://palmettostatearmory.com/index...build-kit.html (to be used on the SBR for now)
$514.95 for the 16" upper http://palmettostatearmory.com/index...ng-handle.html
I have 2 NiB BCG's on order (~$200/each)
$48.93 each for the BCM Charging handles http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-G...%204%20556.htm
$83.82 per pair Magpul Gen 2 BUIS front and rear
$28.36 per Magpul B.A.D. lever
$35.85 per Magpul AFG
I also have an Eotech XPS2-Z that I picked up slightly used for $400 that I can toss on one of them.

I'm going to wait until I get the lowers before ordering the rest of the stuff for the pistol (don't want that whole "constructive intent" to bite me), and I'll be setting up a trust soon for the SBR then I can start the paperwork for that one when I get the lowers in.

Total for the 16" upper right now is $1,249.09 without putting the Eotech on it. It's not "top" quality, but I'm confident it will be much better than my stock DPMS once it's built. Any feedback?
NIB BCGs are really unnecessary, but you already have them on order.
I question the use of the BAD Lever and AFG, if you have never used them before may I ask why you want them?
I think the reticle on that Eotech is going to get really annoying.

Other than those few critiques, I think you have a solid mid-tier build going. When you get the upper, make sure that the feed ramps line up correctly.
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:46 AM   #96
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NIB BCGs are really unnecessary, but you already have them on order.
I question the use of the BAD Lever and AFG, if you have never used them before may I ask why you want them?
I think the reticle on that Eotech is going to get really annoying.

Other than those few critiques, I think you have a solid mid-tier build going. When you get the upper, make sure that the feed ramps line up correctly.
I have both the AFG and BAD lever currently. I really like the AFG and I find the lever to be a nice convenience at times. I don't annoy easily, but if the reticle starts bugging me I'll just sell it and grab a different model. Thanks for your thoughts I was going for exactly that, a "solid mid-tier" build. I'll double check the upper when it comes in too.
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:20 AM   #97
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The trigger in the average AR LPK is 7-9lbs in weight, which is very heavy. If you're building a rifle for precision work like varmint hunting, you need to get a different trigger. The milspec trigger is okay, but there's a reason why sniper rifle triggers are all 4.5lbs or less. Feel free to get used to the milspec trigger, but you'll be wishing for something lighter soon enough.

KAC has a nice 2-stage trigger, but I think its service life is pretty limited. RRA's 2-stage is only rated at about 2-3k rounds. I don't know what the KAC is rated at, but it has a better design than the RRA and is more durable. Most 2-stage triggers have a very "vulnerable" spur design that makes them fragile. Note the pictures below, and see how each one is more beefed up than the previous trigger, with Geissele being the best:




RRA trigger:







KAC trigger:








Geissele trigger:

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Old 01-29-2013, 02:23 PM   #98
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Wow, I had no idea triggers have a "life span." Is it the trigger or the springs/coils?
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:25 PM   #99
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Reedo, is this the trigger you posted above?
http://geissele.com/supersemi-automa...-etrigger.aspx

If this the best place to buy them, or is there a better (cheaper) source you can recommend?
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:44 PM   #100
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I've been planning on using the Geissele trigger myself (either SSA or SSA-E) but I'm not really sure the SSA-E really holds any advantage for me. As for buying them, if you can find one in stock, the PSA LPK/LBK that includes them probably has the best "value" overall imo because it does cost significantly less than buying a LPK/LBK and then buying the trigger separately (assuming you're not looking for a higher quality LPK outside of the trigger.
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