Got the thermostat replaced and...the shop F***ED UP!!

I took my car to get the thermostat replaced because I am in college and its too cold outside to work on it myself.

I no longer have a SES light but now the temp gauge wanders into the red unless i have the heat blasting. Now im wondering if they didnt bleed the system correctly, I checked and found the broken bleeder screw near the headlight and a random metal screw about the same size screwed where into the top of the ET

I'm away at college now and dont know what to do? is it safe to drive the car home to try and get it fixed again or should I just order a new bleeder screw and try to bleed the system

could the new t-stat be defective? maybe the system wasn't bleed correctly? I've read enough to know not to play around with the cooling system

any suggestions are welcome

Bleed the system and get a brass bleed screw (only cause it seems monkeys like to work on your car and having a plastic screw makes it that much easier for them to damage it)

Can't drive it with the needle in the red. If the shop replaced the bleed screw with a metal screw who knows if they put the thermostat in correctly, thats shady. If it were me, I'd bundle up and tear into that thing as best I could to check the placement of thermostat, correct installation of the gasket, correct fluid fill, and then bleed it myself with a new bleed screw. Thats assuming they didn't strip out the top of the expansion tank with the new screw, a new plastic screw may not even seal correctly anymore.

OR call the shop and call them out on it, demand a new expansion tank, a refund or something, and get it to a new shop.

Doubt the thermostat is defection, likely the coolant system was not properly bleed. You should take it back to the shop and get them to properly bleed the system and make sure they do not overfill the expansion tank as it will split the within the next few days if they do not pay attention to the float bobber in the expansion tank.

You could bleed the system, not hard, just be careful of the bleeder screw is plastic. You will then likely need to top off the coolant.

Again, the coolant level really needs to be checked and verified when cold. I usually fill the coolant to the lower level on the float just to give more expansion room when I top off or check my E46.

I knew I should've done it myself I'm taking it to another shop tomorrow because I don't have time to check it for myself, I'm about 2hrs away from home but If the next mechanic tells me I need a new ET my parents back home will go after the first shop and make then either pay for the charges or requesting a refund! thank god I didn't let them replace my VCG too.

I'm scared to take my baby to any shop right about now, whats worse is my ET was brand new so If i have to get another new one ill be so much more upset

Hopefully I just need a new bleeder screw....this was the last thing on my maintenance to do list

First, be careful. If they added a metal screw...we don't know if it's a bleeder screw or if the threads really match. If you put another screw with different threads in it, you'll be in worse shape.

All you need to do in the a.m. is open up the ET cap with car on levelish ground and see where the dipstick from the tank rises to. you won't see fluid in it, per se, it'll be beneath the float.

Since you're overheating, I suspect they didn't bleed the system with the heater on and the car off. I suspect you'll be down a bit more than just a couple of cups, so ask your parents to call the shop to find out the brand of coolant they used so you can match it for now. If you only needed a cup or two to get the level up, then you could use just distilled and be fine through the winter (ratios are published here somewhere).

You don't just need a bleeder screw...leave that alone for now...you don't need to open it. Just the ET to add some fluid...and that might be all it is.

HTH

dmax is right. you might be able to add enough fluid in order to help burp the system and get some air out. Make sure you know how to read the coolant level properly, and do it with the heat on max. This might be enough to get you home or to a point where you can go through and fix the issues.

I have yet to replace the thermostat in my 325ci but I recently installed one on an '01 Volkswagen Golf a few months ago.

The issue with that vehicle was that it had been overheating ever since the used car was purchased weeks earlier. On the outward facing side of the VW thermostat, there is an indicator mark. The old thermostat's indicator mark was positioned on the bottom, so i made certain to install the new one the same way.

Started the vehicle and road tested it, only to find the temp gauge rising fast once again. I was puzzled, and scanned OBD codes etc, assuming temp gauge sensor had gone bad; then checked the water pump again and fluid levels; then bled the system once again.

Guess what I later found out (in the VW's case)??

The previous person that worked on the vehicle, installed it upside down. Although the service manual said "Make note of the position of the old thermostat and replace new in same fashion" , that was the dead wrong thing to do.

I rotated the thermostat 180 degrees and that fixed that.

Havent had the pleasure of removing/replacing my E46's thermostat yet, but just make sure it's not in upside down.

There's no way they improperly installed the thermostat. It's either on or it's not. I just can't see any way to install it wrong. It really sounds like they bled the system wrong. Just as others have said.
It's a little finicky to bleed these cars. So it's 100% possible that it was an honest mistake. Call the shop and give them a chance to fix it.
Them replacing the bleeder screw isn't necessarily a bad thing. Assuming they did it right.
Sometimes things break. And they replaced it, hopefully with an acceptable part.

You could bleed the system, not hard, just be careful of the bleeder screw is plastic. You will then likely need to top off the coolant.

Originally Posted by JefRich19

I took my car to get the thermostat replaced because I am in college and its too cold outside to work on it myself.

I no longer have a SES light but now the temp gauge wanders into the red unless i have the heat blasting. Now im wondering if they didnt bleed the system correctly, I checked and found the broken bleeder screw near the headlight and a random metal screw about the same size screwed where into the top of the ET

I'm away at college now and dont know what to do? is it safe to drive the car home to try and get it fixed again or should I just order a new bleeder screw and try to bleed the system

could the new t-stat be defective? maybe the system wasn't bleed correctly? I've read enough to know not to play around with the cooling system

any suggestions are welcome

Do this.......

If that happened to my car, I would be a mad, raging wild animal. No shop has the right to put random fvcking screws in my car without asking me about it first, and worse, not tell me about it later. It's possible they damaged the threads too. Since you have a new critical engine issue after their work, you have legitimate grounds to stand on. I would recommend you ask for a full refund, or an OEM replacement hose and screw installed and bled free of charge.

Originally Posted by sammk

If that happened to my car, I would be a mad, raging wild animal. No shop has the right to put random fvcking screws in my car without asking me about it first, and worse, not tell me about it later. It's possible they damaged the threads too. Since you have a new critical engine issue after their work, you have legitimate grounds to stand on. I would recommend you ask for a full refund, or an OEM replacement hose and screw installed and bled free of charge.

None of that is really in evidence. The metal screw might be a legitimate bleeder screw...same as many use.

But, because it's suspect now, to get the OP moving ahead, I'm recommending that he not mess with it for now. It's not required for what he needs to do now.

Thus, OP, follow Ray's vid of 'proper bleeding' at your own risk.

You can likely just add fluid and be fine. You might need to add some more after your next run.

I believe that the shop didn't bleed properly and that air was in your system that was then purged when you turned on the heater...causing the wp to pump less efficiently.

You can try my alternate bleeding method if you want...

with car cold, fill to between min and max in ET and close lid.

Turn key to position 2, heater on high, fan on low, and 3 red dots on dial. Then turn car on, rev to 3-4K rpms for 20 secs. and turn the car off.

Then check the level and add if necessary.

Repeat as necessary. But, start with the engine cold.

Don't touch the bleeder screw.

After you get the car working, then you can call up the shop and ask about the screw...they may say it's a proper replacement because the old one broke, or they may say they did the best they could with a close fitting bolt and some sealant like rtv...in which case, you don't want to open it.

The shop should have given you a car that's working, but the replacing the screw isn't necessarily a huge thing...if it's not leaking.

Originally Posted by dmax

None of that is really in evidence. The metal screw might be a legitimate bleeder screw...same as many use.

True, but doesn't change the fact that I will most likely be a raving lunatic if something like that happens to my car..

What would we do without Dmax's voice of reason around here..

Originally Posted by sammk

True, but doesn't change the fact that I will most likely be a raving lunatic if something like that happens to my car..

What would we do without Dmax's voice of reason around here..

Chill...it's not that serious.

Originally Posted by 2003silver330i

Chill...it's not that serious.

Yeah I know, I know.. it's a little bit unsettling to say the least that someone would simply put in a non-OEM part (even if it's just a screw) and expect the customer to not notice. The least they should have done is inform the OP..

Which is why.. DIY

As for Dmax, don't mind, I'm a fan of his laconic humor, didn't mean for that to sound angry or anything..

Originally Posted by sammk

If that happened to my car, I would be a mad, raging wild animal. No shop has the right to put random fvcking screws in my car without asking me about it first, and worse, not tell me about it later. It's possible they damaged the threads too. Since you have a new critical engine issue after their work, you have legitimate grounds to stand on. I would recommend you ask for a full refund, or an OEM replacement hose and screw installed and bled free of charge.

No reason to get bent out of shape without letting them try to fix their screwup first. They're just people, they're not perfect.

Originally Posted by 330iPilot

.. fix their screwup first....

Yeah I hear you, but I'm just like that about the cars.. Actually if it's a shop I know and trust to do good work from past experience, I would let it go at face value. But there's only a couple such shops in my motoring history. Anyone else will have to keep me informed real-time via satellite each time they torque or untorque a screw, bolt or nut on my car. Or breathe within 20 ft of it. I guess we don't know OP's relationship with his shop to comment further..

Geez sam, it's just a car.....

Originally Posted by 330iPilot

Geez sam, it's just a car.....

Originally Posted by sammk

...keep me informed real-time via satellite each time they torque or untorque a screw, bolt or nut on my car. Or breathe within 20 ft of it...

Geez Pilot.. It's just hyperbole.. Aren't we all entitled to one now and then..