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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 08-24-2015, 03:38 PM   #1
puzzleman
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Scan code P305

I have a 2003 325i and the engine is misfiring. Came on suddenly after I filled the gas tank. It was running fine before. I scanned the computer and I got 2 codes, P305 and P305pd. The scanner doesn't tell me what's wrong, just the codes. Does anybody have an idea what might be causing this?
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Old 08-24-2015, 03:48 PM   #2
Solidjake
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You mean P0305? It just shows the same code twice which is for cyl 5 misfire. I would swap coils first and see if the issue follows. If it does then replace the coil. If not change the spark plug.
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Old 08-24-2015, 04:19 PM   #3
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Should I replace all of the coil packs and spark plugs? If one has gone bad, wouldn't it be logical that they all need to be replaced?
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Old 08-24-2015, 04:34 PM   #4
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I would also like to know if I should use OEM parts or are other brands okay?
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Old 08-24-2015, 04:54 PM   #5
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Coils don't go out all at once, just one by one but they last a very long time. I only had to replace 2 in 153k miles. The other ones work fine. Don't throw money at the problem. Bremi or Bosch are the coils you can get. They are $40-50 each. Spark plug NGK-BKR6EQUP
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Old 08-24-2015, 04:58 PM   #6
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Thanks. I'm going to try to replace the one that seems to be bad. If that doesn't work, I'll be back.
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Old 08-24-2015, 05:00 PM   #8
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Just move it to cylinder 1 first, clear the codes and see if the code comes back. If it shows cylinder 1 now then get the new coil
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:34 AM   #9
puzzleman
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ignition coil

This is the one I ordered from Parts Geek. They say it is OEM.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...tion_coil.html
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Old 08-25-2015, 11:13 AM   #10
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ignition coil

I watched a couple of videos on how to replace the coils and it looks fairly easy to do, so I am trying to swap out the number 5 and number one coils to see if the coil is the problem. I have dismantled the cover, the cabin filter housing and what I see is not at all what is shown in the videos. The videos show a clamp that holds in the wiring for the coil and mine doesn't have that. It also shows two nuts that have to be removed and a ground wire on the first cylinder that also needs to be removed. Mine doesn't have those things either. In fact the whole thing looks different from what is shown in the videos for a 325i. Anybody have any idea why this would be true? Thanks!
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:52 PM   #11
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I've swapped out the ignition coils and nothing changed. Still get the same code PO 305. I then swapped out the plugs number one for number five and that didn't change anything either. Does anybody have any ideas what could be the cause of the misfire?
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puzzleman View Post
I've swapped out the ignition coils and nothing changed. Still get the same code PO 305. I then swapped out the plugs number one for number five and that didn't change anything either. Does anybody have any ideas what could be the cause of the misfire?
Did you clear the codes after swapping coils/plugs and before you started the car?
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:37 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vandyboy View Post
Did you clear the codes after swapping coils/plugs and before you started the car?
Yes, the service engine soon light is out, but the car still idles rough. It seems fine at speed though. I took it out for a 60 MPH run and it ran fine, but when I got home, it was idling rough again.
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Old 08-25-2015, 02:15 PM   #14
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Read away!

Get an OBDII smart phone/tablet App and interface, typically $30 or less. These Apps are usually best for drivability issues and they support Emission Readiness Monitor Status, Freeze Frame and Live/Realtime data. They are also great for Logging data for review after the car has been driven and can really help find unusual problems.

Android - Touch Scan for $5.00 and ELM327 OBDII to Bluetooth interface.

iProduct - OBD Fusion for $9.99 and ELM327 OBDII to Wifi interface.

Some people prefer to have an extension cable to keep the interface away from their feet.

Something like these cables are often of interested:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A13I33IUTGJ9BK

http://www.amazon.com/OBDII-Extensio...Q9HPSGWZ2SB34Q

I usually suggest getting the OBDII interfaces from Amazon if you are located in the US/North America. Make sure you choose an interface that indicates that the order will be "Fulfilled by Amazon" otherwise you may be waiting for WEEKS for an interface to arrive from Asia. Ebay is another option, but pay attention where the interface will be shipped from, again weeks for an interface from Asia, so if you can wait and want to try to save some money, go for it, but if you need an interface soon, choose wisely.

Read the 2 links below:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Need to see Freeze Frame info if the SES/CEL/MIL is on and Fuel Trim values at both warm idle and a steady highway cruise between 45-60 MPH.

MAF issues, first cleaning a MAF RARELY resolves anything, the only thing it usually cleans is your wallet.

If you have recently replaced the MAF, put the original back on the engine until you sort out all of the obvious issues. There are MANY counterfeit MAF's on the market and the major trap is ASSUMING the MAF is not the problem since it was recently replaced. Also quite often the MAF is NOT the cause of idle related Lean conditions and misfires, faulty MAF's usually under report the airflow as a percentage and are more of a problem at highway cruise speeds and not engine idle.

Unplugging the MAF will often cause the engine idle to be smoother, reduce or eliminate idle misfires. This DOES not mean the MAF is bad, it is due to the DME going into a fixed fuel Map mode that is typically by default Richer than when the MAF is connected and this will mask Lean conditions caused by intake and/or crankcase air leaks.

P0102 means for some reason there is not likely a signal from the MAF. Verify if the MAF connector is properly plugged in, sometimes the female terminals in the connector are spread and loose on the MAF pins, sometimes there are broken wires inside the wiring harness between the MAF and the wiring box near the throttle body and sometimes the MAF just is bad with no output signal.

WARNING - DO NOT buy a cheap ebay MAF, there are many Asian counterfeits on the market that do not work properly. See of there is an MAF reading in Grams/Sec. Most E46 have an idle MAF reading of between 3.5-4

Note, there may or may not be Lean Codes showing up. Lean Codes usually trigger at around 10% Fuel Trim values or higher. Keep in mind that sometimes these engines can have a Lean condition that does not or only intermittently triggers Lean Codes. This is why monitoring the Fuel Trims in real time is important. Ideal Fuel Trim values are typically in the 0% to +2.5/+3.0% range.

Read this thread - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1057387

Make ABSOLUTELY sure the O2 sensor wiring has not been mixed up, read these links:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...0&postcount=27

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...0&postcount=26

Read my "BMW 20 Questions" comments in this thread - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1059972

Check for or be aware of cracked valve covers and bad valve cover gaskets:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1021219

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...e=2&highlight=

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1053359

This information ASSUMES that spark plugs have been checked/replaced. If they have not been inspected, you also need to check for oil filled spark plug wells due to a leaking/cracked valve cover gasket.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...2&postcount=11

Search YouTube for Scotty Smoke Test. Do what Scotty does or build a tester from related video. Remove the oil fill cap and make sure the crankcase fills up with smoke, put the oil fill cap back on and check for leaks around the valve cover, oil fill cap, dipstick tube and CCV hoses. Cracked valve covers are pretty common on the E46 as it ages.

Note that the Scotty Smoke Test method is not so good for smaller air/vacuum leaks or fully filling the engine crankcase, for this you really need a smoke machine that can provide a solid and continuous low pressure smoke stream. So plan on building a smoke tester of you thing you will use if more than once or may have smaller and harder to find leaks.
__________________
Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 08-25-2015, 02:41 PM   #15
puzzleman
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Wow, that's a lot of information and I don't understand most of it. Is there no way to determine what is causing the PO305 code. I've checked the things that I was able to find out how to check, but now I'm completely lost.
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Old 08-25-2015, 02:44 PM   #16
puzzleman
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I'm very frustrated and wonder if I can just drive it this way. I've owned this car for 4 years and I've spent upwards of $10,000 in repairs. The car isn't worth much, so selling it isn't an option especially with the SES light on.
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:00 PM   #17
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[QUOTE=jfoj;16737557...Need to see Freeze Frame info if the SES/CEL/MIL is on and Fuel Trim values at both warm idle and a steady highway cruise between 45-60 MPH....[/QUOTE]

Or do you want to send me your address so I can fly out and fix the car for you?
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:49 PM   #18
puzzleman
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I appreciate your trying to help me and if you'll send me your address, I'll send you an airline ticket to Omaha and I'll pick you up there. I don't have a clue what I'm trying to do and the nearest dealer is 100 miles round trip and the nearest indy shop is 300 miles round trip. I took the car to Lincoln last year and had $6800 worth of repairs done and the car has worked perfectly ever since until a few days ago when this happened. I have no idea what CEL/MIL is or what fuel trim values are, so maybe I should just junk the thing. I love the car, but I'm about over spending more money on it.
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Old 08-25-2015, 05:08 PM   #19
jfoj
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Well, suggest you start with YouTube University, plenty of videos and info about OBDII.

Do you have an OBDII tool? If not, you NEED to buy one. You likely have a smart phone or tablet, so for $30 or less you can get a tool. You NEED one whether you keep this car or get another one.
__________________
Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 08-25-2015, 07:15 PM   #20
puzzleman
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I have an Actron OBD II Pocket Scan Code Reader. Not sure how much I can do with this thing.
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