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Old 01-23-2013, 02:03 AM   #41
wanganstyle
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Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Oil takes 1 1/2 - 3 times longer than the coolant to warm up.

Cars with water based oil coolers actually have oil warmers during start up!

Be kind to your engine, drive it easy for at least 20 minutes until you think about getting to heavy with the right foot.
Ya the subaru turbo cars have a water warmer/cooler right on top of the filter

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Old 01-23-2013, 02:08 AM   #42
lovemy330ci
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pshh 12 degrees out here in nyc LOL its cold as fvck
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:14 AM   #43
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The retarded forms of foreign noises was your alternating charging your battery because you left it sitting for three days. It's like a hum in the back your ear drum that you can't help but try prying out with a gentle, soft Q-tip but then as you reach the crevice where it lingers, another ear popping noise appears in the form of injectors turning on and off and this noise is too much for you to handle so you go on a deranged attack wielding nothing but a whip made from wine woven bamboo lavished in oak leaves to soak up the fall colours.

Maintenance lunatics are seriously annoying.
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:20 AM   #44
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It has been around -3 to -11 degrees Celsius here for about a week now and my car seems to be handling it, but not without issues. I have the same rough running at start up, the car cranks good and has no problem starting.

The first 30 seconds to a minute all is like normal, than the CEL comes on and the car starts shaking pretty much. If i already drove away in this first minute the car looses power and stalls. When i restart the car the engine runs like normal again and sometimes the CEL goes off but mostly it stays on. When the CEL stays on it eventually clears itself 2 or 3 days later (I was surprised, the CEL never went off by itself in the past).

I pulled the fault codes from the DME and they are P1083, P1085 [Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1) & (Bank 2 Sensor 1)] and P1349 [Misfire During Start Cylinder 4]. I had these codes before in the passed and they where caused by a leak in the intake manifold gasket. For some reason these codes do not worry me at the moment because of the cold weather (wich is rare here the last 20 years, don't u love global heating ) and the fact that after restart the car always runs like an angel again.

But, not being worried does not mean I like this situation. I doubt a block heater will do me any good (in relation to the codes). I replaced the spark plugs last summer so they should be good. I don't think i have vacuum leak but it could be, but than the CEL should not clear by itself. I start the car without extra priming the fuel pump, maybe I should in this weather. Whatever it is, i blame the weather
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:49 AM   #45
sgoetz628
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Along these same lines (so technically not a hijack?), my car goes into the garage just before the first snow and stays there until the end of March. However, not being able to stand this situation for more than a month or so, I take it out 2-3 times during the winter and drive it up and down my street for 30 minutes, then put it away. So my question is - do you think this is enough time, in first and second gears only, to fully warm the oil up and boil off all O2? I cannot go beyond my little street, as the car is not insured during the winter

Okay, two very different opinions as to whether driving up and down my street for 30 minutes is sufficient to fully warm the oil and boil off the moisture.

Thanks to both who responded. Now a third opinion would be helpful to sway me one way or the other. Any more responses? Thanks
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:41 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by Vigilante View Post
It has been around -3 to -11 degrees Celsius here for about a week now and my car seems to be handling it, but not without issues. I have the same rough running at start up, the car cranks good and has no problem starting.

The first 30 seconds to a minute all is like normal, than the CEL comes on and the car starts shaking pretty much. If i already drove away in this first minute the car looses power and stalls. When i restart the car the engine runs like normal again and sometimes the CEL goes off but mostly it stays on. When the CEL stays on it eventually clears itself 2 or 3 days later (I was surprised, the CEL never went off by itself in the past).

I pulled the fault codes from the DME and they are P1083, P1085 [Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1) & (Bank 2 Sensor 1)] and P1349 [Misfire During Start Cylinder 4]. I had these codes before in the passed and they where caused by a leak in the intake manifold gasket. For some reason these codes do not worry me at the moment because of the cold weather (wich is rare here the last 20 years, don't u love global heating ) and the fact that after restart the car always runs like an angel again.

But, not being worried does not mean I like this situation. I doubt a block heater will do me any good (in relation to the codes). I replaced the spark plugs last summer so they should be good. I don't think i have vacuum leak but it could be, but than the CEL should not clear by itself. I start the car without extra priming the fuel pump, maybe I should in this weather. Whatever it is, i blame the weather
The ultra cold temps causes a lot of different issues. To start with fuel, especially with added Ethanol does not atomize as well and this is a complicating factor. Low fuel pressure or volume due to a weak fuel pump also is more of an issue during cold start as well.

Intake path carbon build up is also a major problem that really causes problems on cold start usually the first start of the day. This carbon accumulates in the intake ports, on the back of intake valves and on the piston dome. This carbon acts as a sponge and will absorb fuel until if becomes wet enough that it no longer absorbs fuel, usually within 30 seconds or less. Once the car can no longer absorb fuel it will not lean the mixture out.

Usually it take an overnight parking of the car for the carbon to fully dry out and it will become sponge like again in the following morning.

Then all intake path hoses, gaskets, rubber parts and surfaces have a hard time sealing due to material shrinkage and hardened gaskets. Rubber is the worst part as after about 5-6 years it starts to deteriorate very quickly. Seals that spend most of their life compressed while heated will become heat set in their compressed state and will not spring back to seal up gaps when the temps really dive.

If the engine starts and has misfire(s) with fuel cut off, this is when the rough running begins. The best thing you can do to counter misfire with fuel cut off is to just turn off the engine and restart it. Doing this will almost always clear the misfire with fuel cut off and the engine will not likely continue to have misfires and you can drive as normal. This may or may not clear the CEL when you restart the engine.

If the CEL comes on, yes it can clear itself in a few days if the problem(s) go away and you can get through the programmed number of start cycles that the DME requires to clear the code automatically.

Garaging the car is usually the easiest way to help with cold starts, the next option is to have an engine heater of some form. If you have leaking intake air path issues, likely you can survive and hold off repairing these issues until the Spring time comes around as long as you remember to turn the engine off and restart if when cold start misfiring begins.
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 01-23-2013, 08:58 AM   #47
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It was 9 when I woke up here in Massachusetts, 10 on my way to drop off the kids at school. E46 started up like a champ, and I drove her immediately. But, as a normal precaution when it's this cold, I usually drive her down this long road and back in between drop offs so the engine temp can reach the normal level, then the car sits for about a half hour till I have to drop my son off. No issues other than the typical struggling cabin fan at low speeds.

Yes, I have a new DISA
Yes, my thermostat is fine
Yes, I have replaced the Final Stage Resistor to the new version.

Sometimes, you get lucky I guess. But I did come home on the highway from another building last night and drove for about an hour straight, got home around 6:15 and the car was hot, so it took awhile for her to cool down at least. I was more worried about my wife's E46 wagon starting as I think the battery has just about seen it's life, but she was gone and at work by the time I was feeding the kids. Success!

Only a few more days in a row of this coldness.

On another note, if at all possible and you do not need to get up super early and there is a good chance of some sun hitting your car, see if you can park your car where it will get the first rays of the sun when it comes up so it can start to warm things up. I think this does make a difference, unless of course you have either Alpine White, or TiAG.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:01 AM   #48
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Hello BMW Experts!
When I was a teen I had an original Beetle. "The Complete Idiot's Guide to the Beetle" was the first manual written in what is now a large library of Idiot's guides.
On very cold mornings, and maybe other times too, it might be good to follow their advice, which was something like this:

"You should warm up your car for about the time it takes to roll one of those funny cigarettes..."

Murf

PS: what be a DISA, pls?
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:03 AM   #49
SpoonerDee
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How I start my car regardless of temp.

Get in turn to position 2 wait for the buzzing sounds from the various components to stop (usually about 3 -5 seconds) then turn to start. Always fires up with no issues, maybe a slight delay when the temp hits the teens and single digits, but that's to be expected from a cold battery. She wont be running at optimum for a min or two till she warms up but that is normal.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:24 AM   #50
Sweetness
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Once more, thanks for all the in depth responses. It was actually 1 DEGREE here this morning, and my sister's VW Jetta actually wouldn't even start! Didn't even bother using my car this morning, so we'll see how it goes when it gets up to 20 today. Thank lord the cold front is almost over. 5 Days from now it will be in the 50s.
Last night I drove home however, and like SpoonerDee, I always turn to Pos 2 for 5 seconds and let all the humming and buzzing come to a stop, then fire up. Worked like a star. On the way home, the blower motor started to whistle a tad which did piss me off. I can't wait for new FSR and Blower. I tried the OBC trick, but once I got to the "off" step after selecting 19.0, I got lost. Tried 5 different times and it wouldnt let me get to 7.0, coolant temp. It was about 10 degrees in the car, so pushing the stalk was quite the battle...the button didn't even work at first...the cluster was moving back too! So I stopped and will be doing it on a warmer day.
Looks like I might be getting a block heater for next year...I'll probably find some easy way to hide the plug behind my Mtech 2 when I get it. I'll stay with my current oil and keep doing maintenance. DISA, Vanos Seals sound nice. O2 sensor perhaps after.

thanks for all the help everyone.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:33 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by Sweetness View Post
Once more, thanks for all the in depth responses. It was actually 1 DEGREE here this morning, and my sister's VW Jetta actually wouldn't even start! Didn't even bother using my car this morning, so we'll see how it goes when it gets up to 20 today. Thank lord the cold front is almost over. 5 Days from now it will be in the 50s.
Last night I drove home however, and like SpoonerDee, I always turn to Pos 2 for 5 seconds and let all the humming and buzzing come to a stop, then fire up. Worked like a star. On the way home, the blower motor started to whistle a tad which did piss me off. I can't wait for new FSR and Blower. I tried the OBC trick, but once I got to the "off" step after selecting 19.0, I got lost. Tried 5 different times and it wouldnt let me get to 7.0, coolant temp. It was about 10 degrees in the car, so pushing the stalk was quite the battle...the button didn't even work at first...the cluster was moving back too! So I stopped and will be doing it on a warmer day.
Looks like I might be getting a block heater for next year...I'll probably find some easy way to hide the plug behind my Mtech 2 when I get it. I'll stay with my current oil and keep doing maintenance. DISA, Vanos Seals sound nice. O2 sensor perhaps after.

thanks for all the help everyone.
You should have heard my blower motor this morning; it was making all kinds of nasty sounds. I think it's about time to bit the bullet and get it replaced along with the FSR as well. I'm pretty sure both are original to the car.

It was 30 degrees here this morning in Eastern North Carolina and that's cold for us. Car always starts up like a champ even though I have those random cold idle jolts sometimes due to the VANOS. One morning last week it was around 15 and the car started up fine then too.
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:13 AM   #52
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You should have heard my blower motor this morning; it was making all kinds of nasty sounds. I think it's about time to bit the bullet and get it replaced along with the FSR as well. I'm pretty sure both are original to the car.

It was 30 degrees here this morning in Eastern North Carolina and that's cold for us. Car always starts up like a champ even though I have those random cold idle jolts sometimes due to the VANOS. One morning last week it was around 15 and the car started up fine then too.
+1, my motor likes to make cricket-like noises when it's pretty cold. Really annoying. Unfortunately the only fix for it is a new motor, $$$ for such a stupid problem.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330...wer/ES2165890/

Screw that. Go MTC or ACM on this one:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330...wer/ES2129904/

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330...wer/ES1905669/
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:23 AM   #53
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Actually the OEM blower motor from the X3 works and it's an updated part number. It's floating around here somewhere; that part is $116 from AutohausAZ though.

EDIT: Found it

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/64113453729/ES256098/
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Old 01-23-2013, 12:30 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
The ultra cold temps causes a lot of different issues. To start with fuel, especially with added Ethanol does not atomize as well and this is a complicating factor. Low fuel pressure or volume due to a weak fuel pump also is more of an issue during cold start as well.

Intake path carbon build up is also a major problem that really causes problems on cold start usually the first start of the day. This carbon accumulates in the intake ports, on the back of intake valves and on the piston dome. This carbon acts as a sponge and will absorb fuel until if becomes wet enough that it no longer absorbs fuel, usually within 30 seconds or less. Once the car can no longer absorb fuel it will not lean the mixture out.

Usually it take an overnight parking of the car for the carbon to fully dry out and it will become sponge like again in the following morning.

Then all intake path hoses, gaskets, rubber parts and surfaces have a hard time sealing due to material shrinkage and hardened gaskets. Rubber is the worst part as after about 5-6 years it starts to deteriorate very quickly. Seals that spend most of their life compressed while heated will become heat set in their compressed state and will not spring back to seal up gaps when the temps really dive.

If the engine starts and has misfire(s) with fuel cut off, this is when the rough running begins. The best thing you can do to counter misfire with fuel cut off is to just turn off the engine and restart it. Doing this will almost always clear the misfire with fuel cut off and the engine will not likely continue to have misfires and you can drive as normal. This may or may not clear the CEL when you restart the engine.

If the CEL comes on, yes it can clear itself in a few days if the problem(s) go away and you can get through the programmed number of start cycles that the DME requires to clear the code automatically.

Garaging the car is usually the easiest way to help with cold starts, the next option is to have an engine heater of some form. If you have leaking intake air path issues, likely you can survive and hold off repairing these issues until the Spring time comes around as long as you remember to turn the engine off and restart if when cold start misfiring begins.
Thnx JFOJ, u put my mind at ease
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Old 01-23-2013, 12:30 PM   #55
Sweetness
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zell View Post
+1, my motor likes to make cricket-like noises when it's pretty cold. Really annoying. Unfortunately the only fix for it is a new motor, $$$ for such a stupid problem.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330...wer/ES2165890/

Screw that. Go MTC or ACM on this one:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330...wer/ES2129904/

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330...wer/ES1905669/
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryannel2003 View Post
Actually the OEM blower motor from the X3 works and it's an updated part number. It's floating around here somewhere; that part is $116 from AutohausAZ though.

EDIT: Found it

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/64113453729/ES256098/
Hmm this sparks and interesting discussion. There are 3 Blowers that make noises in the cold.
1)ECU Box Fan (Cricket Noise)
2)Main Blower Fan (Alien, Whining Noises)
3)Climate Control Panel Fan (Grinding, Ghrring Noise)

I already replaced #3, the whole panel, with an updated version. (There are two versions). Got for $35 on eBay...works like a charm.

and as for the main blower fan, I'd like to spark a discussion about the X3 fan, as it looks a bit smaller, but looks the same. The MTC and ACM fans will basically fail much quicker than OEM fans. Most people get the fans that have detachable blades for much more ease of installation. Non detachable blades are a PITA to change.
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:49 PM   #56
LittleBear
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Nice weather we are having here in Brklyn (~ 11f this morn).

Little Bear likes it!
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:54 PM   #57
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meh about the blower noise. I think mine has made it just about ever since I got the car in 2005. Always happens when it's effin cold out, but has to really be cold. And I find that if I put the blower up to the highest speed, it usually goes away, but going back to auto and a slower speed yields the squeaks. Only time this has ever been a problem and I just deal.. no need to replace that bitch.
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:10 PM   #58
sgoetz628
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Originally Posted by LittleBear View Post
Nice weather we are having here in Brklyn.

Little Bear likes it!

Beautiful animals! And I guess more than one tree grows there in, uh, Park Slope?
Not exactly warm in Connecticut, either. Twenty minute drive home. Car's still cold. I'm still cold. And the house is cold. This weather sucks!
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:21 PM   #59
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1 minute installation engine heater!

http://www.amazon.com/Powerblanket-E...=engine+heater
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Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:45 PM   #60
LittleBear
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Beautiful animals! And I guess more than one tree grows there in, uh, Park Slope?
Not exactly warm in Connecticut, either. Twenty minute drive home. Car's still cold. I'm still cold. And the house is cold. This weather sucks!
Yes, Prospect Park, next to Park Slope.
We love this weather, even though our coop's boiler has been out all day....

Murf
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