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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 01-22-2013, 01:33 PM   #1
slimg00dy
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installed two discs, one already warped?

Okay so I had the dealer install all 4 discs and pads for me (probably my first mistake but its cold in VA now so I didn't want to do it my self).

I drove it maybe 200 miles without any hard breaking, but I did do a lot of high way, so there were some 60-65 down to 0 (again not hard breaking).

Now my front passenger disc makes noise every time I set off.
There are no vibrations, squeaks, noises or anything during breaking, its just when I start to put my foot on the gas when this happens.

Any ideas?
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:39 PM   #2
trj
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Take it back to the dealer.
They should have bed the brakes for you.
Also the rotors shouldnt warp in 200 miles.

Also, make sure they didnt do anything to suspension. Because you say, the noise starts at acceleration. It doesnt point to the brakes.

I suspect the pad material is stuck to the rotor and thats what is making noise.

Just out of curiosity, how much did they charge you for the brake job?

They quoted me $1800 last year. lol.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:55 PM   #3
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Either take it to the dealer and tell them to bed the brakes, or do it yourself.

Basically you just go from about 60mph to 5 mph repeatedly without resting about 10 times. You put the brakes on as hard as you can without tripping the ABS. After the last time, drive for several minutes to cool the rotors so the brake pads don't stick to the rotor. Don't come to a full stop during the process. You'll need a long abandoned county road or state route.

By the end of this you should be able to smell your brakes. They'll be smooth after this.

Last edited by WDE46; 01-22-2013 at 01:56 PM.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:59 PM   #4
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what kind of noise do they make under acceleration?
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:10 PM   #5
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Mine was $1400. I've only done brake jobs in japanese cars before, and I've only done valve cover gaskets and oil changes in this car. Since I wasn't sure on the actual procedure, and I didn't want to replace the brakes in the cold, I went along with it, hoping I would get at least some decent service and a good warranty on parts.

Guess I get to go find out about the service and warranty now.

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Old 01-22-2013, 02:12 PM   #6
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Its like a rubbing noise from the pad to the disc, and its not only certain parts of the disc, its the entire thing. If I were to go 1-2 mph only, it would make that rubbing noise the entire way.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:13 PM   #7
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Might just be the dust cover too...they often get bent...and they sit very close to the rotor. Take it back and have them fix it. Don't let them take more money from you!
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:14 PM   #8
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wde46: I'll try that first, thanks.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:15 PM   #9
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Did the dealer install OE pads/rotors? Probably poor prep/clean.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:31 PM   #10
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Judging by the price, they should be BMW pads and rotors. The service receipt doesn't say OE, just says pads and rotors.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:31 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by slimg00dy View Post
Mine was $1400. I've only done break jobs in japanese cars before, and I've only done valve cover gaskets and oil changes in this car. Since I wasn't sure on the actual procedure, and I didn't want to replace the breaks in the cold, I went along with it, hoping I would get at least some decent service and a good warranty on parts.

Guess I get to go find out about the service and warranty now.
You must really hate the cold to spend $1100 more than necessary for a set of brakes!
Brakes are brakes. Japanese, German, or American, they are all basically the same. I don't know what you thought would be that different on BMW brakes, especially since you paid $1400 for them. You could have done a complete suspension AND your brakes for that much money, if you did it yourself.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:38 PM   #12
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I don't have a garage since I own a small townhouse and the temperature range is from 15-35F during the last month and a half, not exactly the kind of temperature I want to take out wheels, clips, bolts and sensor cable for.
It goes without saying that I regret taking it to the dealer but I was playing it the safe route of not screwing it up the first time. Guess I should have just looked up a DIY and waited for a warmer month. However the brakes were 6+ years old according to the previous owner service records and brake sensor lights were on, so I didn't, and still don't, know how much of the pads were left.

Last edited by slimg00dy; 01-22-2013 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:42 PM   #13
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Pad light means get new pads very soon. You had the right timing, but could have made a better choice on the money side of things. Good parts are about $300. Amateur labor (me) is about 3 hours for the first time. Pro labor with a lift should be 1.5 hours.

Anyway, for that money take it back to them and then leave a nasty floater in their customer bathroom. Don't flush.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:48 PM   #14
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You must really hate the cold to spend $1100 more than necessary for a set of brakes!
Brakes are brakes. Japanese, German, or American, they are all basically the same. I don't know what you thought would be that different on BMW brakes, especially since you paid $1400 for them. You could have done a complete suspension AND your brakes for that much money, if you did it yourself.
Not quite. BMW and Porsche are known to have the best brakes in the business. This is especially awesome for BMW since they're not really a sports car manufacturer.

Pad and rotor compounds are trade secrets and are usually specific to a manufacturer's specification. Then there's cooling, ABS tuning, fluid specification, tuning, etc.

Basic stuff
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:53 PM   #15
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Guess I get to go find out about the service and warranty now.
Pretty much. You spent $1,400 and they screwed something up. Have them fix it.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:15 PM   #16
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Not quite. BMW and Porsche are known to have the best brakes in the business. This is especially awesome for BMW since they're not really a sports car manufacturer.

Pad and rotor compounds are trade secrets and are usually specific to a manufacturer's specification. Then there's cooling, ABS tuning, fluid specification, tuning, etc.

Basic stuff
Yeah, but he's talking mechanics. Mechanically our E46 brakes are almost identical to any other sliding caliper design. If you purchase the parts, then any mechanic can install them properly.

Quality wise, our brakes (especially the 330) are phenomenal.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:19 PM   #17
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Yeah, but he's talking mechanics. Mechanically our E46 brakes are almost identical to any other sliding caliper design. If you purchase the parts, then any mechanic can install them properly.

Quality wise, our brakes (especially the 330) are phenomenal.
If that's what he meant, then should have stated so.

Like I said, this is a cleaning/prep issue. Or maybe just straight up has defective pads (machined out of tolerance)

If OP shows pics of his pads, I'll tell him exactly whats wrong
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:26 PM   #18
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I'll try taking it to the dealer first to see if they are willing to fix it (I'll be angry if they don't).

If for some reason they don't, I'll try WDE46's method.

If that doesn't work, I'll order pads and 2 discs and replace both front ones and take the pics then.
I've already looked at the DIY's and they look pretty much like any other cars except for a few things here and there.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:27 PM   #19
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Maybe they didn't use anti squeak on the pads? OP $1,400 is a rip off. I would rather freeze outside than over pay to have my brakes replaced.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:27 PM   #20
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I honestly don't know how people can afford cars these days... with prices like this, who has money for food and rent/mortgage?

OP next time rent a local garage for three hours and do it yourself if location is needed. All brake jobs are similar, bmw is actually one of the easiest.

or come by next time... you'll still save yourself $$$ after round trip and my fee ;-)

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