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///M3 Forum
The BMW E46 ///M3 is the M version E46 and puts out an amazing 333 HP and 262 lb-ft of torque at stock specs! There are an amazing amount of modifications for both the coupe and convertible models so read up and get started modifying your cars today!

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Old 01-22-2013, 01:46 PM   #1
Goku9384
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Help with codes p0010, p0011, p0012

My check engine light goes on intermittently. The check engine line comes on when I turn my car on, or drive for 100 miles to 1000 miles..its random. The codes I usually are these three codes p0010, p0011, and p0012. I get a mix of these codes when my engine light comes on. I have gotten a pending p0340 but never a full blown code I believe the first 3 codes caused it to become pending somehow. From the research I've done these codes are related to intake/exhaust camshaft sensors, vanos solenoid pack. Just not sure whats causing the engine light to come on because my car is running good no rough idle, no loss of power, no engine rattle, nothing that would make me think somethings wrong with the car. I'm thinking of changing out the exhaust camshaft sensor first to see if that fixes the check engine light. Knowing that if I had a bad intake camshaft sensor or bad solenoid pack it would cause those problems I stated earlier but since I'm not getting those I look into those last. Do you think this is a good idea before i pull the trigger on buying an exhaust camshaft sensor.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:02 PM   #2
scca_ziptie
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Possibly VANOS solenoid from searching other threads (although none of the OPs posted a result). 11367832057 part number from realoem.com (I'm sure there is an updated # but they don't list it).
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:00 PM   #3
Goku9384
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Originally Posted by scca_ziptie View Post
Possibly VANOS solenoid from searching other threads (although none of the OPs posted a result). 11367832057 part number from realoem.com (I'm sure there is an updated # but they don't list it).
The solenoid is a 600$ part is there a test or anyway you can see visually to know for sure thats the issue?
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:32 PM   #4
scca_ziptie
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The solenoid is a 600$ part is there a test or anyway you can see visually to know for sure thats the issue?
Purely going off of what three or four other threads said related to the same series of codes that you mentioned. I would certainly take it to a capable indy shop to have them test/verify before spending that kind of money. I know the part is expensive but numerous shops around here will do the diag part "free" and then advise of the recommended replacement / solution. I do not know what the test would be to verify if the VANOS solenoid is good/bad. Sorry.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:35 PM   #5
scca_ziptie
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Actually, my buddy who owns an auto repair / race shop in Oregon just sent me this:
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:36 PM   #6
Slyde
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You can get a rebuilt and improved solenoid pack (reinforced solder points) for ~$150 when you return your old unit... if it comes to that (better than needing a new VANOS... believe me).
The site explains the problem and their rebuild solution. The intermittent nature of the codes is symptomatic of loose solder points. I personally think a $150 repair is good news.
I have the old solenoid pack from my VANOS replacement, btw.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:23 AM   #7
Goku9384
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Originally Posted by Slyde View Post
You can get a rebuilt and improved solenoid pack (reinforced solder points) for ~$150 when you return your old unit... if it comes to that (better than needing a new VANOS... believe me).
The site explains the problem and their rebuild solution. The intermittent nature of the codes is symptomatic of loose solder points. I personally think a $150 repair is good news.
I have the old solenoid pack from my VANOS replacement, btw.
You have any experience with the quality of buying a rebuilt vanos solenoid?
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:49 PM   #8
///mteknikk
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Originally Posted by Goku9384 View Post
You have any experience with the quality of buying a rebuilt vanos solenoid?
actually i do. the shop that i work for builds race cars and they sent out the stock vanos to that company that rebuilds them and its came back already and it is pretty neat work done to it. they reinforce the solder points and epoxy the areas. they do a pretty neat job. id definitely look into that
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:57 PM   #9
46smg
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These are the codes my mechanic found when I had a similar problem a year ago: P0012, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306.

Work Performed; removed and opened vanos control module and found "broken solder joints" on three (3) pins. Resoldered circuit board and resealed control module. No problems since then.
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:17 PM   #10
Nyght
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I have experience buying a rebuilt vanos solenoid from Beisan systems ( i think thats the name) I installed it in July 2012 and my M3 has been pulling hard since!! I do have a tune, Catless headers which does make a difference. I am head to head with E90 335i with a JB4 tune on low boost... 11 psi?. That should give you an idea on how I pull now.

Feel free to ask questions
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2005 M3 Jet Black SMGII
Exterior:ZCP/CSL Wheels Carbon Fiber CSL Trunk. Remus Exhaust. Black Exhaust Tips. Matte Black Kidney Grills and Gills. Engine:AFE Intake, TurnerMotorSport Lightweight Pulley Power Kit, Supersprint Headers (Catless) 1 AR20 and 1 magnaflow resonator on stock mid pipe. Supersprint X-pipe Activeautowerke Tune.
S85 Swap in progress est: Late 2013 :)
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