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Old 01-22-2013, 04:12 PM   #1
JHalleck
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Stealership vs DIY cost with big oil leak!

First off I love this forum and have recieved alot of information about different issues.

I have a new one!!!! Catastrophic oil leak. Today I had the dreaded red oil pressure light come on while driving on interstate for a second. Engine sounded rough, after a while of being parked. No oil on dip stick. Had it towed to stealership where they stated::: drum roll please...

crankcase vent valve with updated hoses and dipstick 822.17
oil filter housing gasket 440.00
remove cylinder head and send for repair 3310.50


Which of these can I do myself ( the first two) and I had the OFHG done a year ago at a shop. It shouldnt fail yet should it? Also Last month my fan detonated inside the shroud putting holes in the radiatior. Could that have caused any of these issues?

Also they stated that when they added oil, the noise in the crankcase became very quiet so it was an optional but recommended.

I told them I would get back with them in the morning. Any input is appreceated!!!
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:29 PM   #2
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First off, you should get your car away from the dealer (they are called stealerships for a reason) as your car is not likely worth putting the money into it they are suggesting.

Your oil leak is likely the Oil Filter Housing Gasket, this is very common and I think any Indy could do it for a fair amount cheaper than the dealer quoted.

CCV, they all need this replaced, this may or may not be why some you had no oil, along with the oil leak?? CCV parts are less than $275 as I recall, maybe slightly cheaper, the job is much easier if the OFHG is being replaced.

So why does the dealer feel the cylinder head needs to be repaired?? This is the wildcard here. More info would be helpful to understand what the issue/diagnosis is.

You would likely save $1k if you were able to replaced the OFHG and CCV, dipstick is not required, but should be fully cleaned out.

How far do you drive the car one way in these colder temps?

Suggest you read this thread as well - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...ghlight=report
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Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299

Last edited by jfoj; 01-22-2013 at 04:32 PM.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:53 PM   #3
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I agree on saving money by not going to the dealer but due to my location, that was my only choice for my insurance co to cover the tow. The stealer said that they heard noise coming from the crankcase. But it would do that anyway without oil right? They said they would want to "investigate" to see where the noise is coming from. VANOS?

I am pricing it out at my indy shop as we speak. Thanks for the reply and the link to the thread
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:54 PM   #4
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Were you ignoring a low oil light by any chance?

I thought the drum roll would conclude that you towed it to dealer, it added oil, and said, "you should get to ccv and ofhg" pretty soon.

Was there a part of the story you didn't mention, like the engine sounded horrible for many miles? When you got the oil light, how much further were you driving?

Yes, what does dealer think went on with cylinder head...sounds like it thinks you blew a headgasket . Did you get an overheating light too by any chance?

Man, this dealer will be in a world of fanatics trouble if it turns out this was BS.

Honestly, I bet you could add oil and drive...but were you ignoring a yellow oil light for a significant period of time? Had you had the yellow oil light come on, then went off after about 15 seconds, and you figured all was good? You hadn't checked your oil in a while I gather.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:05 PM   #5
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I had it towed to the dealer. The light came on (yellow) while I was on the interstate at highway speeds. It was transient. The engine sounded rough, but it was 4 degrees out with wind so I choked it up to road noise. When I stopped at the light at the bottom of the ramp, the RED light came on and then immediately went off. (engine running fine)

When it cooled down I looked and saw oil all over the bottom of the car and no oil on the dipstick. That was when I called the tow truck. From time of first light to stop it was aprox 10 miles.

Checked the oil last week, and it was in normal operating range and proper color

Last edited by JHalleck; 01-22-2013 at 05:06 PM. Reason: needed more info
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:05 PM   #6
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I am thinking that maybe the CCV froze and sucked all the oil out of the crankcase???

This would possibly be why the oil level light would not have come on, but also likely the oil level sensor is not working?
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:08 PM   #7
Solidjake
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If the head is fine then you can get the other two, if not for what they are quoting you you can get a completely used engine to its entirety.

OGFH can be done at a shop for 150-200. CCV will cost about $500-600. If you can DIY both of these jobs will cost $130 at most.

Last edited by Solidjake; 01-22-2013 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:15 PM   #8
JHalleck
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Indy shop will do it for 400 cheaper than the dealer (850.00 total) on the gaskets. . . .but not till next week. good thing I can borrow a car!
dont have time this month for DIY. wish I did
I will let everyone know what i find out. Again thanks for the replys

Last edited by JHalleck; 01-22-2013 at 05:17 PM.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:45 PM   #9
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Now I may DIY. Any DIY instructions that are better than others?
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:48 PM   #10
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I used this guide when I did my CCV


http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...t=starless+ccv

But be ready to cut your hands up and I REALLY hope you do this in a heated garage.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHalleck View Post
remove cylinder head and send for repair 3310.50
You can do an entire engine swap and still have some money to spare at that price.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:27 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by JHalleck View Post
I agree on saving money by not going to the dealer but due to my location, that was my only choice for my insurance co to cover the tow. The stealer said that they heard noise coming from the crankcase. But it would do that anyway without oil right? They said they would want to "investigate" to see where the noise is coming from. VANOS?

I am pricing it out at my indy shop as we speak. Thanks for the reply and the link to the thread
The noise they heard coming from the crankcase probably caused by a bad CCV, I had this symptom a while ago, little oil leaked on CCV, car drove fine, just annoying sucking sound, and when I pulled up the oil dipstick, noise was gone, put it back in, noise reappeared, so I bought a complete CCV set with associated hoses from BMA for around $85 and replaced it myself, took me good 5 hours since one of the bottom hose wouldn't fit so I had to sand the bottom fitting of the CCV a little bit in order to get it fitted. After replacing, no more noise and oil leak.
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:46 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by JHalleck View Post
I agree on saving money by not going to the dealer but due to my location, that was my only choice for my insurance co to cover the tow. The stealer said that they heard noise coming from the crankcase. But it would do that anyway without oil right? They said they would want to "investigate" to see where the noise is coming from. VANOS?
VANOS is in the head. Even if the noise got quiet, you are taking a gamble by re-using a bottom end that has been starved of oil. At best case you just have accelerated wear, worse case you have major wear on the bearings/crank/etc.

Keep in mind that a "cheap fix" here is false economy. You want to know the engine isn't going to have a failure in the next 5K miles because it ran nearly dry of oil.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:16 PM   #14
JHalleck
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I understand but the car has almost 180k on it and I am not in a position to be tearing the head down if I do not need to
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:14 PM   #15
JHalleck
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Having the dealer do the work. Don't want to but I will not be able to DIY it till late next week and my Indy shop cannot do it till next week either. The dealer can get it done by tomorrow and matched the Indy price
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:44 PM   #16
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Thank you for your part in the funding of the BMW AG

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Old 01-23-2013, 07:40 PM   #17
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Ag?
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:51 PM   #18
JHalleck
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The problems continue . . . Stay tuned
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:05 PM   #19
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Just dropped off my moms 2004 330ci for a ccv replacement without the hoses, oil level sensor, and ofhg. He charged me $280 labor for the job. will pick up car tomorrow
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:51 PM   #20
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I now have what looks like brown foam under the car . My first thought was head gasket. I pulled the dipstick and it was difficult to remove. When it came out, the tip was missing. I assumed it was a new dipstick until I looked at the ring and residue on it. I tried to replace it and it will not go back in. Called the shop and it is going back in. I think they broke the dipstick in the tube somehow. As for the foam. The oil on the dipstick looked like new oil with the proper color. And no oil in the expansion tank and no oil underneath the engine. I wonder if they used a degreaser to clean up the engine and that's what it is? The Pic with the engine is as car in as the dipstick will go before hitting a lot of resistance
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