Done with this car! EML, Traction light, CEL back again!

Originally Posted by jfoj

If your car has the 20 pin round under hood connector, it has to have the top cap in place for the under dash 16 pin connector to read DME codes.

There is a shorting jumping in the under hood connector that passes the DME signals to the under dash connector. Make sure the jumpers in the under hood cap are not damaged.

I went from under the dash for my 2 codes and then got the other codes under the hoof last night.

Originally Posted by mizter_pino

hello trentcdrums

i made a review a while ago.
please read it, hopefully it will wel you if it matches your problems.

hope hearing frm you

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...014&highlight=

Thanks unfortunately I have switched and cleaned mind already and nothing so I returned it.

So I cleaned the electrical connections on the ICV and ordered a $35 recycled one from Bavarian Recycle in Cali so I hope this solves the issue. I've cleaned this ICV 4 times already. One question. Have they cleaned the one ordered or did they just take it and sell?

The card idle was rough again today as well. So I opened the hood and hit my hand able to unhook the ICV electric plug and so I did. The cars idle seems easier but rough still obviously because it has no control. I looked to see what the dash was giving and the EML AND TRACTION WAS ON, just like it does I'm driving at the car does it limp mode. I noticed change after unplugging. So luckily yesterday I ordered an icv from Bavarian Auto for $41 shipped used. Hoping for this to all be over and to not be scared to let off the pedal and see the EML, and travtion lights.

EML/traction/CEL light happened to me twice. your car is probably running in "safe mode" on two cylinders. do you only have like 2 forward gears and does your car sound like a vacuum cleaner thats clogged?

Originally Posted by trentcdrums

The card idle was rough again today as well. So I opened the hood and hit my hand able to unhook the ICV electric plug and so I did. The cars idle seems easier but rough still obviously because it has no control. I looked to see what the dash was giving and the EML AND TRACTION WAS ON, just like it does I'm driving at the car does it limp mode. I noticed change after unplugging. So luckily yesterday I ordered an icv from Bavarian Auto for $41 shipped used. Hoping for this to all be over and to not be scared to let off the pedal and see the EML, and travtion lights.

You could get a brand new OEM Bosch ICV for $118 at Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-02801405...ds=13411744713

You could cancel that order, and just buy a brand new one for $70 more, and be sure that you have fixed the issue. I don't think you will find an OEM Bosch unit for less, but I may be wrong. The pricing for these things is all over the place. The next lowest price I found was $154, and I have seen them priced as high as $255. I would be seriously pissed if I paid that much for one.
But it is an electro-mechanical part, with a valve that opens and closes to allow additional air into the intake, and a motor that controls the valve. It basically is a modern version of a choke. The motor can fail, and the valve may not move correctly over time. There has to be some sort of bushing/bearing for that valve to pivot on, so the whole thing could get sloppy and not move as accurately as it wears out. It is not designed to be serviceable at all. Since it is a sealed unit, it is almost impossible to clean the entire thing correctly, while at the same time lubricating the mechanical parts of the valve, and keeping the electrical motor clean. It is simply not possible to get a good look at the internal mechanical parts, and look for signs of wear. Who really knows what is an acceptable amount of mechanical slop in the actuation of the valve? Think about how hard it would be to verify that a DISA valve was functioning properly, if it was a sealed unit, and you could not see if the flap was opening and closing properly. That is basically what this is, only smaller.
I paid $105 for one from Amazon about a year ago. I could have cleaned mine again, but I just wanted to have a new one, instead of wondering if it really was functioning as well as it should be. If they all cost $250+, I may have cleaned it out for a while longer, but for around $100, I decided to just replace it. I really want to slice the old one open, and see exactly what is in there, and get a good look at the internals. I could not find anything like that on the Internet.
Good luck!

Edit: here is the same part, selling for $300 on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/13411744713-...-/110793218061

Originally Posted by MJLavelle

You could get a brand new OEM Bosch ICV for $118 at Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-02801405...ds=13411744713

You could cancel that order, and just buy a brand new one for $70 more, and be sure that you have fixed the issue. I don't think you will find an OEM Bosch unit for less, but I may be wrong. The pricing for these things is all over the place. The next lowest price I found was $154, and I have seen them priced as high as $255. I would be seriously pissed if I paid that much for one.
But it is an electro-mechanical part, with a valve that opens and closes to allow additional air into the intake, and a motor that controls the valve. It basically is a modern version of a choke. The motor can fail, and the valve may not move correctly over time. There has to be some sort of bushing/bearing for that valve to pivot on, so the whole thing could get sloppy and not move as accurately as it wears out. It is not designed to be serviceable at all. Since it is a sealed unit, it is almost impossible to clean the entire thing correctly, while at the same time lubricating the mechanical parts of the valve, and keeping the electrical motor clean. It is simply not possible to get a good look at the internal mechanical parts, and look for signs of wear. Who really knows what is an acceptable amount of mechanical slop in the actuation of the valve? Think about how hard it would be to verify that a DISA valve was functioning properly, if it was a sealed unit, and you could not see if the flap was opening and closing properly. That is basically what this is, only smaller.
I paid $105 for one from Amazon about a year ago. I could have cleaned mine again, but I just wanted to have a new one, instead of wondering if it really was functioning as well as it should be. If they all cost $250+, I may have cleaned it out for a while longer, but for around $100, I decided to just replace it. I really want to slice the old one open, and see exactly what is in there, and get a good look at the internals. I could not find anything like that on the Internet.
Good luck!

Edit: here is the same part, selling for $300 on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/13411744713-...-/110793218061

I'm glad you linked me. It has been shipped. What can I do to return it?

Originally Posted by Five_seveN

EML/traction/CEL light happened to me twice. your car is probably running in "safe mode" on two cylinders. do you only have like 2 forward gears and does your car sound like a vacuum cleaner thats clogged?

No I don't believe

I talked to a local enthusiast about whether I should just use the used ICV or get a brand-new one. He did state that my car is very old and has a lot of mileage, so it would probably be worth the last cash to not spend so much money on it as I could buy a brand-new one in the future. Hopefully the company is a good company to buy from, and if not, I hope the part messes up between my six-month warranty.

Originally Posted by ryannel2003

The DISA isn't the problem. Either you need to replace your throttle body or your ICV. My 323 did the exact same thing the week after I bought it and I cleaned the throttle body and it hasn't ever come back. I also cleaned the ICV at the same time too and the car was much nicer to drive.

I agree. It is either the ICV or Throttle Body. If it is an EDK Throttle Body then more then likely it is toast.

Originally Posted by 2003silver330i

I agree. It is either the ICV or Throttle Body. If it is an EDK Throttle Body then more then likely it is toast.

I sure hope is not the throttlebody. That would be an expensive and on fun job. I will definitely keep updates, but I have cleaned the throttlebody, boots, and ICV multiple times and still have no luck with it. The car is old with 170,000 miles on it

I'm not familiar with the 323i but do you know if your TB is mechanical or electrical?

EDIT: More then likely it is a bad ICV but if that doesn't resolve the issue then it is either the whole EDK throttle body or the TPS sensor on the MDK throttle body depending on which TB is in your car.

Originally Posted by 2003silver330i

I'm not familiar with the 323i but do you know if your TB is mechanical or electrical?

EDIT: More then likely it is a bad ICV but if that doesn't resolve the issue then it is either the whole EDK throttle body or the TPS sensor on the MDK throttle body depending on which TB is in your car.

Hmm how can I figure that out?

I have a mechanical!

Originally Posted by trentcdrums

Hmm how can I figure that out?

This is a generic version of how to test a TPS:

http://www.ehow.com/how_5832553_chec...on-sensor.html

Originally Posted by trentcdrums

I talked to a local enthusiast about whether I should just use the used ICV or get a brand-new one. He did state that my car is very old and has a lot of mileage, so it would probably be worth the last cash to not spend so much money on it as I could buy a brand-new one in the future. Hopefully the company is a good company to buy from, and if not, I hope the part messes up between my six-month warranty.

Well, $70 is not that much more money, if it fixes your car. The used unit will probably be OK, but if it is not functioning correctly either, you will never know, since you will just assume that it is a different problem. I would rather be sure, but in the end, it is your car, and your money. As others have said, it may be your TB. So even a new ICV may not fix the issue, but at least you would know it would not cause you any more problems. If you are in a financial position where $70 extra makes a difference when it comes to fixing the car, then you seriously do not need to be driving an old e46. Get it running as best you can, and sell it, because this will not be the last problem you have to deal with.

Originally Posted by MJLavelle

Well, $70 is not that much more money, if it fixes your car. The used unit will probably be OK, but if it is not functioning correctly either, you will never know, since you will just assume that it is a different problem. I would rather be sure, but in the end, it is your car, and your money. As others have said, it may be your TB. So even a new ICV may not fix the issue, but at least you would know it would not cause you any more problems. If you are in a financial position where $70 extra makes a difference when it comes to fixing the car, then you seriously do not need to be driving an old e46. Get it running as best you can, and sell it, because this will not be the last problem you have to deal with.

This deff Is not the only issue this car has had, trust me.

Keep us informed. I have posted in 3 or 4 threads and have talked to people who all have this same problem. We scan for codes and it shows that our icv is stuck open. Some of us replaced the icv but had no luck. We are all trying to figure this one out but still cant find a solution after months of trying.
Someone showed me a thread were a member had this problem and his mechanic fixed it when he found out one of the wires going to the icv was bad.
I am currently trying to figure out if my wires are bad but not sure what the correct voltage should be..

Here

A bad crankshaft sensor "can" cause bad idling and acceleration behavior. You can give that a shot.