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#1 |
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Registered User
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Coax and speaker wire double gang wall plate?
Can someone point me to where I can buy a coax and speaker terminal wire double gang plate?
Preferable 3 speaker ports (6 total) on the left gang and 1 coax socket on the right gang? I've been looking on amazon and google and haven't found anything so far? Add these together on a double gang and I'm good: http://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Bind...nal+wall+plate http://www.amazon.com/Petra-11-0415-...oax+wall+plate
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( . .) c('')('') ![]() ![]() Last edited by ryanwhite74115; 02-03-2013 at 06:52 PM. |
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#2 |
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Wants to be Orange
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 13,163
My Ride: 1098S; RR Sport; CRZ
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I'd custome wire it myself to be honest. Purchase open plates and purchase the individual fillers.
This is what I did in my theatre room. Something like... http://www.crutchfield.com/S-sSzkCkB...s-Inserts.html
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Last edited by MpoweredM; 02-03-2013 at 07:32 PM. |
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#3 |
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Yep, purchase the modular ones (like the On-Q or Levitron) to give you exactly what you want. This is what I do.
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#4 |
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Registered User
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I used these
http://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-00...e+pass+through ![]() That's not speaker wire, but you get the idea. Last edited by Andy2108; 02-03-2013 at 08:20 PM. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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I'm here for the double gang
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#6 |
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Tinfoilhatatarian
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: One of the most evil states ever to exist
Posts: 3,374
My Ride: .
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Malo periculosam libertatem quam quietum servitium
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#7 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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( . .) c('')('') ![]() ![]() |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Would MonoPrice have what you're looking for?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/se...ana+wall+plate
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#9 |
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Registered User
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You can get them all in one gang or double, whatever you want to do, they are all snap in connectors anyways... Just use Leviton's Quickport System.
Coax Insert Speaker Terminal Inserts Quickports
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#10 | |
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Quote:
They also make the flush versions. ($2-$4 for DataComm) ![]() ![]() More connections = more resistance.
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![]() Ranting about Panny plasmas, Canon cameras, Glocks, BlueNile, and HDMI cables on a BMW board since 2005. 2007 Chevy Suburban LT 4x4 with Nav/Bose/DVD/JL (works for me) 1968 Ford Mustang with Polk/ADS (my first car and runs strong) 2007 Lexus GS350 with every option (I loved it) 2000 BMW DINAN M5 (will be missed) 2001 BMW 330ci (will be missed) Last edited by GlockMan; 02-04-2013 at 07:08 AM. |
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#11 | |
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IMO, that route looks superior to the passthrough option (from a looks perspective). I'm not sure I buy the resistance is going to have a measurable impact. Certainly not on the coax... |
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#12 |
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#13 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
To each their own. PS - What happens when he needs extra cables? HDMI? Component?
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![]() Ranting about Panny plasmas, Canon cameras, Glocks, BlueNile, and HDMI cables on a BMW board since 2005. 2007 Chevy Suburban LT 4x4 with Nav/Bose/DVD/JL (works for me) 1968 Ford Mustang with Polk/ADS (my first car and runs strong) 2007 Lexus GS350 with every option (I loved it) 2000 BMW DINAN M5 (will be missed) 2001 BMW 330ci (will be missed) |
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#14 | |
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Registered User
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I thought about going with the built in route but the thought of having to either get a new gang plate every time I get a new device would suck. Other option is to get many more ports than I need and that sucks too. While the signal degradation on the digital side doesn't matter, the speaker signal will certainly degrade. |
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#15 | |
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Registered User
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- Gone with extra ports (ie. 4 when I only need 3) and used blanks in the extra hole. I usually do this when I know there's an extra, unused wire in the wall (maybe a second coax or something), but don't want to terminate it for whatever reason. - Switched out the plates (upgraded from 2 to 3 or 4, 4 to 6, etc.). It's minimal work compared with running the cable through the wall. Dirt cheap too. The plates are cheap, and I'm never doing more than one or two at a time. As for Glock's post, the whole point is that these systems are modular. Need HDMI? There's an insert for that. Need component? There's an insert for that too. Either way, the hard part is running the cables in the wall. Terminating them is easy. Edit: I'll also say, the downside to your way is the length of the cable. What happens if you need to move something and need a longer cable? You have to do an entirely new run. If you terminate, the in-wall stuff stays the same, and your patch cable is the only thing that gets switched out. For the signal degradation, couldn't you run larger speaker wire in-wall to allow for this? Last edited by Chris3Duke; 02-04-2013 at 11:16 AM. |
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#16 |
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Registered User
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To each their own, I just prefer to not have multiple terminations in my cables from a simplicity standpoint.
My home theater is set up in a way that I won't be moving anything ever and if a longer cable is needed, they make extension adaptors. Larger speaker wire is more expensive so you add unneeded cost to your application. I do see the advantages to your way and I'm certainly not knocking it, just not the way I'd do it. |
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#17 | |
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Show me the termination plate that properly handles a simple home theater receiver: (3) HDMI (2) Component (6 RCAs) (2) Digital Coax (3) Cat5 (7) Speakers (1) Subwoofer Coax (2) Coax (1) Basebank AV Set (3 RCAs) That is 27 connections - You would have to use 5 Gangs of 6 port plates vs one 2 gang shoot port with better signal quality. Have you ever considered the fact that you are intercepting high end cables with cheapo connectors? Weakest link is the wall plate itself. But hey, they make em for a reason.
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![]() Ranting about Panny plasmas, Canon cameras, Glocks, BlueNile, and HDMI cables on a BMW board since 2005. 2007 Chevy Suburban LT 4x4 with Nav/Bose/DVD/JL (works for me) 1968 Ford Mustang with Polk/ADS (my first car and runs strong) 2007 Lexus GS350 with every option (I loved it) 2000 BMW DINAN M5 (will be missed) 2001 BMW 330ci (will be missed) Last edited by GlockMan; 02-04-2013 at 12:47 PM. |
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#18 | |
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I find it hilarious that there are proposals of monoprice parts and the topic of speaker level degradation in the same topic.
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