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Forced Induction Forum
Discuss supercharging, turbocharging and even nitrous and water injection here.

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Old 10-05-2015, 07:00 PM   #1
playero
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Join Date: Sep 2011
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My Ride: 2004 325i
VF Supercharfer

Does anyone here has a non M car with a VF S/C? I am having some issues with mine, after 3 years of installation, and will like to see if I can pinpoint the problem I'm experiencing.
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:51 PM   #2
jdjg
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whats your problem?
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Old 10-05-2015, 08:21 PM   #3
dbarton62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdjg View Post
whats your problem?

Same

I have a 3 litre M54 with VF
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Old 10-05-2015, 10:21 PM   #4
playero
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It's actually a couple of them. First, the charge pipe that goes from the MAF to the SC does not fit quite properly at the SC, it seems like it should be about 1/4" long so that the clamp can hold it in place properly, just wondering if anyone has that same problem and how they got around to fix it. Also, while driving the car, at normal speeds, once the clutch is depressed when coming to a stop, the engine just dies, the idle goes straight to zero, have to pop the clutch to get it started, I never race the car, but lately, if I try to take the engine to high RPM's, it just dies, all lights on dash board comes, again, must turn key to off and back to on, and pop the clutch to get it going. the car idles great and it seems to be pulling just fine. I just replaced the fuel filter and I'm waiting for the fuel pump, decided to replace it just as well...
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Last edited by playero; 10-06-2015 at 06:30 AM.
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Old 10-06-2015, 11:19 AM   #5
dbarton62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by playero View Post
It's actually a couple of them. First, the charge pipe that goes from the MAF to the SC does not fit quite properly at the SC, it seems like it should be about 1/4" long so that the clamp can hold it in place properly, just wondering if anyone has that same problem and how they got around to fix it. Also, while driving the car, at normal speeds, once the clutch is depressed when coming to a stop, the engine just dies, the idle goes straight to zero, have to pop the clutch to get it started, I never race the car, but lately, if I try to take the engine to high RPM's, it just dies, all lights on dash board comes, again, must turn key to off and back to on, and pop the clutch to get it going. the car idles great and it seems to be pulling just fine. I just replaced the fuel filter and I'm waiting for the fuel pump, decided to replace it just as well...
A pic or 2 would help I think.
As far as the charge pipe to the inlet of the blower, mine has a silicone coupler at that location.
I would check for boost leaks before spending any money on parts.
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:38 PM   #6
playero
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I will get a photo as soon as possible; the hard pipe that goes to the intake side of the SC, for some reason is hitting over the SC unit and not going over the lip of the SC, so every time I tight that clamp, it just comes out. I have tried to bend the pipe with a heat gun in order to try to make it fit properly, but it barely goes over the SC. I have managed to get it just to hold on to it, but I know that it will eventually come off. On your set up, that silicone coupler, does it goes over both, the SC and the hard pipe? What size will that be? I have check for leaks and so far there are none on the side from the output of the SC all the way to the TB, or any other place for that matter. The reason I got a new fuel pump is that the fuel pressure at the fuel injector rail is about 39-41 psi, and I believe that it should be 50 psi or so. Also, when I replaced the fuel filter, I started the car in order to check for leaks, and the fuel filter became extremely hot, so hot that it was uncomfortable to touch. I don't think that it should be so hot, being that is quite some way from the pump and that made me think that if the pump is on its way out, it must be getting so hot that the fuel itself is almost to the point of boiling. Not sure if it will actually happen, but I'm not taking a risk..... is it normal for the fuel to become so hot while the pump is working? I would like to think no...
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:51 PM   #7
playero
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Here is a photo of the pipe/SC connection. As you can see, the pipe is barely on the SC, the silver looking part on to the right is the inlet of the SC itself. Wondering if I could get a silicone coupler that will cover both of them and fix it that way, dbarton62, do you happen to remember the size of your coupler. On another note, could anyone tell me what is the number for the belt for this system? mine has the number and letters almost gone and can not be read, I will like to see if I can get a replacement at my local auto parts store. I have contacted VF asking for this and so far no response....
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Old 10-06-2015, 05:19 PM   #8
dbarton62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by playero View Post
Here is a photo of the pipe/SC connection. As you can see, the pipe is barely on the SC, the silver looking part on to the right is the inlet of the SC itself. Wondering if I could get a silicone coupler that will cover both of them and fix it that way, dbarton62, do you happen to remember the size of your coupler. On another note, could anyone tell me what is the number for the belt for this system? mine has the number and letters almost gone and can not be read, I will like to see if I can get a replacement at my local auto parts store. I have contacted VF asking for this and so far no response....
You need a silicone connector on both the inlet and the outlet of the blower.
Mine are 3.5" couplers.
You have the correct type of clamps by the looks of it. Worm gear clamps are not the best I have found.

You likely have a boost leak if that connection in the pic is not sealing properly
Any leaks in the ducting after the MAF will allow unmetered air into the system and will screw with the AFR.
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