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Old 01-25-2013, 03:38 PM   #1
rudycoop
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 390
My Ride: 3 pedal 330i
330i p1351 Cylinder 5 misfire w fuel cutoff when hot. Ideas?

Hello all. I am a long time lurker and have mixed crazy amounts of things through the help of this forum. I don't often post things anywhere because searching and reading will usually lead me to an answer. Pretty stumped on this one.

I recently purchased an '01 330i w/125k with a pile of check engine lights. I found 2 broken vacuum lines on the secondary air system and figured it was the cause of my problems. I also seafoamed it. Now the car runs great and has loads of power, BUT after driving for a while, when the motor gets good and hot it starts to idle like crap and throws the p1351 code (cylinder 5 misfire w fuel cutout) I will list things that have been done by previous owner in the last 15k:

- coils
- coil boots
- plugs
- ccv system
- DISA valve
- intake boots
- all o2 sensors
- complete cooling system overhaul

I feel like I hear air sucking under the manifold and do smell a small amount of burning oil when the code happens and it runs rough. I have not yet tended to the fuel injectors, fuel filter, fuel pump. I also am considering doing the intake manifold gaskets. I am about to do a compression test. I saw another guy had a burnt valve that led to his cylinder 3 misfire. I guess I am scared, but it is crazy how it runs completely fine for so long then just turns to crap. I do think the battery is older and or potentially not 100%. Is this a possible cause?

I was considering doing the vanos and the valve cover gasket since it's at 125k and I am pretty certain either has been tended to.

I think I have summed it up pretty well. I have read for endless hours on this forum prior to posting this. I will check back w my compression test results.

Last edited by rudycoop; 01-25-2013 at 03:40 PM.
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:46 PM   #2
jfoj
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You could start with a compression and cylinder leakage test, however, if the car runs fine most of the time, this may not be the first move.

No sure if you have read the first link below in my signature?

Do you have a scan tool that can read real time data like fuel trims?

What does the freeze frame data show?

Misfire at idle or when driving?

Although the cooling system was overhauled, you also need to confirm proper coolant temp, see this link - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491
__________________
Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:37 PM   #3
rudycoop
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Location: San Francisco
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Hey Jfoj, I read your posts on so many other threads about vacuum leaks and such. It's actually what lead me to the vacuum switch on my secondary air system failure. I am doing a vanos rebuild on my 325 today. I am taking a break from this 330 headache. I will get a compression test in before the end of the day. I have a variety of scan tools. Lately my fav has been a bluetooth odb reader and torque. What should I look for in the the trims?

I will check the coolant stuff out too.

The misfire is when it's idling and for a while like in traffic and such.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:42 PM   #4
rudycoop
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Compression tests show that cylinder 5 is the lowest of the 6 but still kicks at 150. The rest averaged between 160-170. Is this enough to make it not run right? Or enough that if something else wasn't right that it would make the misfire happen there first. It was running like total garbage while it was low on fuel. Throwing low fuel misfire codes too. Once I gassed up I took it on a 12 mile city drive and ran it hard. Ran completely fine with no codes. Drive cycle hasn't completely reset yet, but it did last time with no codes. I am curious if the low fuel has anything to do with it. I am going to change the fuel filter since it's never been done. Anyone have any advice? What's a good way to watch live data of fuel injectors?
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:43 PM   #5
rudycoop
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Oh btw coolant was steady between 91-94c
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:54 PM   #6
jfoj
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Could be a fuel pump issue?? Start with the filter. Read the 2nd link in my signature on soft failing fuel pumps.

If your fuel trims are above 3% this is not good, they may not be high enough to trigger any codes?

Keep in mind well there can be vacuum caps on the rear underside of the intake that can be a real PITA to find.

Also you may need to replace the plastic air distribution manifold on top of the engine. This mixes all the CCV vapors with the airflow from the IAC. If this gets plugged or restricted it could cause poor air swirl for the cylinder at idle.
__________________
Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:02 PM   #7
rudycoop
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I replaced one cap on the back of the manifold when I did the air pump switch. It was cracked and brittle. Are there more than the one fatter sized one I capped? I will look into the fuel trims and fuel pump.

What goes wrong with the plastic manifold? cracks? I haven't considered that. I will do some research on it. I have considered the intake gaskets. Then in doing so I could make sure everything underneath is right.

Thanks for some good info.
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:14 PM   #8
rudycoop
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After reading the writeup about soft failures on fuel pumps and how little I have vested in this car it seems like a no brainer to replace both filter and pump.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:50 AM   #9
rudycoop
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Also want to note it has Bosch plugs in it. I know everyone likes to hate on them. I am highly considering putting in NGK's.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:59 AM   #10
Momo0888
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Hey check out your ignition coil again i have the exact same problem on mine...if its cold no problem when i drive it or keep it over 1000rpm it works fine but when hot and on idle i have an idle issue ana missfire in 2 cylender...try to change the 5th cylender coil with the 6th and try your car...the problem gonna apear again skan it and chek if the problem is on the 5th or 6th cylender if on the 6th you know what to do thats what i did on mine!!!!
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:11 AM   #11
rudycoop
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I swapped them. No dice. First thing I tried. I never assume "new" parts work. I ordered a new fuel filter and NGK plugs because I really want to see if the bosch v ngk battle makes any diff. Also am going to pull apart my air distribution manifold and check for clogs of any sort. I will report back.
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:04 AM   #12
rudycoop
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I have been ripping this car apart to no avail. I found numerous things that were slightly alarming. First thing I found was that the injector to cylinder 5 was clean as if the top o ring has been leaking gas on it. Because the rest were all dirty. Also I found the black camshaft cover inside the engine under the valve cover gasket was missing. I ordered a new one. Does anyone know if this could cause oil to get in places it doesn't belong? Very curious.

It is part # 11121740163
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:18 AM   #13
rudycoop
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Just wanted to post an update on this for future reference. I rebuilt the vanos, replaced the missing camshaft splash cover, new VCG, installed new o rings on the fuel injectors, replaced the Bosch plugs w NGK's, and put in a new fuel filter. Now the car runs awesome. Drive cycle cleared and no SES light.
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