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This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 02-08-2013, 02:54 AM   #1
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Roseville, CA
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My Ride: 2000 323i Wagon
Unhappy Mechanics please help CEL is on - Pulled 9 codes - Any ideas on what I need to fix?

Hey everyone,
I have a 2000 323i Wagon Auto w/ 140k miles.

About 10k miles ago I got a CEL, and due to financial problems I was unable to fix the issue, back then it started with 3 codes (P1188; P0303; and P0170)
I started noticing that my fuel economy was going down, I was getting about 15MPG city and 20MPG highway. Now it got to the point where it cost me $50 to drive 150 miles on highway driving 60MPH.

*Quick note: If my car idels for more then 2-3 min without moving you feel the engine misfiring really badly. You have to literally stop the car, wait couple of seconds and turn the car on and its fine until next long idel

So last night I checked my codes again, and I pulled 9 codes from my OBD2. Here they are in exact order:

1: P1188 - Fuel Control (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
2: P1250 - Fuel Level Too Low
3: P0300 - Random Misfire Detected
4: P1478 - Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (Very Small Leak)
5: P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
6: P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
7: P0170 - Fuel Trim - (Bank 1)
8: P1250 - Fuel Level Too Low
9: P0300 - Random Misfire Detected

Someone please help me, I took it to my Toyota dealer where I work and they were not able to tell me whats wrong. They told me I needed to replace all my O2 sensors, catalytic converter, spark plugs, and MAF sensor. Then they would be able to properly diagnose my vehicle.



Last edited by tunsjo86; 02-08-2013 at 02:57 AM.
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:12 AM   #2
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Fuel pump!
... If all other maintenance was done.
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:14 AM   #3
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Low fuel level could be just low fuel level...as in, your sending unit is bad, the gauge is bad and you think you have gas but you don't.

Could be failing fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, messed up maf/maf connections, or an air leak. Any of those would read as the car being lean.

GL...hth (oh, could be a tank of bad gas too...really bad gas)
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:26 AM   #4
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Suggest you check the first 3 links below in my signature.

Your Toyota dealer could learn a lot from reading the 3 links in my signature. The techs need to think WAY outside the narrow box they are working within.

You likely do not need a MAF or O2 sensors to sort this issue out, however, your O2 sensors likely need to be replaced due to their age/mileage, however, I would hold off on them for now.

Fuel pump is something that would be a wise idea even if it does not resolve your problem as it is a time bomb that will likely die and leave you stranded soon anyway.

Assuming the car has not had any of these items replaced, and it was my car, this is where I would start.

Measure the fuel pressure and volume on the fuel rail, possibly replace the pump just because
Replace the spark plugs and coil boots.
Replace the fuel filter and make sure the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hoses are replaced/in good shape
Replace both intake boots.
Replace at a minimum the CCV lower oil return line that connects to the dipstick tube.
Inspect the DISA and replace the O-ring - Read about this in the DISA section of my first link
Replace the vacuum line that runs from the SAP diverter valve around the valve cover to the solenoid under the rear of the intake.

The above list is likely around $300 in parts if you shop these around. This does not include the fuel pump, which is around $130.

Other things that should be on the short list are the entire CCV system, likely the valve cover and valve cover gasket, cleaning the IAC, possibly replacing the air distribution manifold (not intake) and making sure the SAP hose are all in good shape and working correctly, an oil change and possibly O2 sensors.

You likely have some sensors that could be replaced, however, I would bet you can wait on this and they are not critically needed at this point. It is possible that you have caused damage to the Catalytic Converters driving the car for so long with issues, but a quick exhaust back pressure test can determine this and I have only seen a small handful of these cars need the Catalytic Converters need to be replaced due to meltdown. Usually you will notice a MAJOR loss of power when the engine is running the best it can if the Cats are clogged.

Suggest you print out the first 3 links in my signature and present it to your dealer tech and say "READ". Give the paperwork to him at least 2-3 days before you let him look at your car again. All the answers are in these 3 threads. If they still try to shove a bunch of sensors down your throat, tell them NO and to "READ" again.

If the techs do not get it, suggest they find a different line of work, like maybe working at a bakery or a dry cleaner!

It's really not this hard. Your car is over 10 years old, all the rubber and plastic parts under the hood are shot, rotten, brittle and broken. This is NORMAL for a BMW, Toyota, Honda, Chevy or almost every car out there on the road. Time for maintenance and replacing the busted stuff and likely your car will run well again.

Good luck and let us know how things work out.
Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299

Last edited by jfoj; 02-08-2013 at 08:30 AM.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:08 PM   #5
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Location: Roseville, CA
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My Ride: 2000 323i Wagon
Thanks everyone for your help..
My problem was the oil separator and connecting hoses were shot. My DISA was also screwed up.

So now my question, first how you replace a DISA? Do I just remove the old one and install the new one? Or is there something I need to worry about?
Second, do I need to remove the intake manifold to replace the oil separator with hoses?

Please let me know..

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Old 02-12-2013, 05:41 PM   #6
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DISA is just 2 screws and a plug. Most simple DIY on e46 that requires tools except for your hands. 5 minutes is maximum if you work on snails pace.
T40. Dont use T30 like me, you will strip the head and will have a lot of trouble getting it out.

CCV is quite cumbersome though. People have done it without removing the intake manifold. Check the DIYs.
I am going to try it without removing it too.

Replace your intake boots, clean the ICV, TB and MAF when you do the DISA, that will make a big difference if you are getting those codes because of vacuum leak.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:47 PM   #7
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You don't need to remove intake to do ccv. Not as bad as everyone says.

Use a magnetic t-40 (or whatever ccv screws are) or put dumdum (3M window weld roll) on the bit to hold the screw...the left hand screw is a pain to get to but if I could do it, so could you!
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:54 PM   #8
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If the OFGH is leaking (even just a bit) do it while doing the CCV. OFH out of the way makes CCV easier.
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cel check engine, evap leak, fuel control, misfire

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