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Old 02-18-2013, 07:32 PM   #1
Eniaro
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Annoying problem

Whenever I try to start my car temp gage hits red and sits there from 30 seconds to 7 minutes, cold start or warm. Any idea what's causing this.

Key fob doesn't work when buttons are pressed. I'm not sure if it may be the cause. (I locked the doors manually once and all the Windows rolled down)Click image for larger version

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Stealership says the dme box needs to be changed

(E46 325i 2003 manual 5s)


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Old 02-18-2013, 07:34 PM   #2
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Thermostat could be shut n then open to normal. Had it happen to me in a Honda accord.
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:37 PM   #3
Solidjake
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Have the car scanned for codes using a BMW diagnostic tool. If you have to replace anything it will probably have to the best thermostat.
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:51 PM   #4
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Oh and most important... Car won't start until it goes down and all those other pretty lights stay on. Even after the car finally let me start it.

Had a read out only thing I got was ****airflow low

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Old 03-07-2013, 04:27 AM   #5
Eniaro
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Exclamation Bump

Before I get burned, I'm a noob I know little about cars but I can fix with instructions

Bought a scanner of eBay but I need help could someone translate, and point me to the possible bad parts.

Quote:
# ERRORS IN UNITS
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unit BMWTNR HW SW-FSW ERRORS / SHADOW-MEMORY
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DME -> 7.519.308 19 50 1 error / 6 errors
EWS -> 6.905.670 03 08 no errors
ABS* -> 6.759.045 03 0.0.89 5 errors
LEW -> 6.760.232 04 04 1 error
A/C -> 6.931.602 34 13 no errors
SRS -> 6.912.755 10 32 no errors / 5 errors
IKE -> 6.931.251 22 32 4 errors
LCM -> 6.923.491 16 31 no errors / no errors
ZKE -> 6.924.250 10 30 2 errors / no errors
MFL -> 0.000.000 01 10 no data
RAD -> 6.921.963 45 50 no errors


# ERRORS DETAILS - DTC(hex)/PARAM(hex)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DME -> 08/F2 - Air mass flow sensor signal, short circuit to negative or open circuit
Shadow-memory:
08/F2 - Air mass flow sensor signal, short circuit to negative or open circuit
5A/12 - Exhaust temperature before catalyst, bank 1, signal line, short circuit to negative
5B/12 - Exhaust temperature before catalyst, bank 2, signal line, short circuit to negative
5D/12 - Exhaust temperature after catalyst, bank 2, signal line, short circuit to negative
34/02 - Solenoid valve, exhaust flap, short circuit to negative or open circuit
53/14 - Crankshaft sensor, no signal

ABS* -> 5E38/A0 - Yaw rate sensor electrical faulty.
5DF4/20 - Vehicle power < 9 Volt.
5D97/A0 - Sensor cluster Supply voltage out of range.
5DF7/A0 - Vehicle power > 18 Volt.
5E14/A0 - CAN Timeout DME/DDE

LEW -> 09/9D - No CAN message (ASC)

SRS -> Shadow-memory:
06/40 - Side airbag, front right door, resistance too high
70/20 - Seat occupancy detector, break of seat mat
50/20 - Power supply, undervoltage
02/08 - Driver's belt tensioner, short circuit to negative
05/40 - Side airbag, front left door, resistance too high

IKE -> 11/64 - Thermal oil-level sensor
F4/88 - No CAN message
F5/88 - No CAN message (ASC1)
F7/88 - No CAN message (DME2)

ZKE -> 07/21 - Anti-theft alarm system: Siren, Radio interior protection, Tilt alarm sensor or Wire STDWA Short circuit to ground or Open circuit (Car does not have alarm system -Pre-wired (yes)/removed by previous owner (IDK)
45/02 - Central locking system: Lock contact Driver's door (had the door open)

Last edited by Eniaro; 03-07-2013 at 05:37 AM.
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:43 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Eniaro View Post
Oh and most important... Car won't start until it goes down and all those other pretty lights stay on. Even after the car finally let me start it.

Had a read out only thing I got was ****airflow low

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Not sure what you mean about the 'won't start until it goes down.'

Of the codes you listed, one that stands out is the lack of signal from crank sensor. Check into that more.

Sounds like you have an airleak too, but that might be from a bad sensor.

Not saying your sensor has failed, though. Clear codes and see if it returns. Might have been a momentary glitch...stuff like that happens...but 'no signal' is a significant enough signal to look into more.
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:19 AM   #7
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Stick with the stealerships recommendation. Sounds like the dme with all that going on at once.
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:24 AM   #8
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I had the same problem about a month ago, my car would also stall out after about 30 seconds when it was cold outside...anyway I got the dme replaced and all has been well since then
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:37 AM   #9
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DME -> 08/F2 - Air mass flow sensor signal, short circuit to negative or open circuit
Shadow-memory:
08/F2 - Air mass flow sensor signal, short circuit to negative or open circuit
5A/12 - Exhaust temperature before catalyst, bank 1, signal line, short circuit to negative
5B/12 - Exhaust temperature before catalyst, bank 2, signal line, short circuit to negative
5D/12 - Exhaust temperature after catalyst, bank 2, signal line, short circuit to negative
34/02 - Solenoid valve, exhaust flap, short circuit to negative or open circuit
53/14 - Crankshaft sensor, no signal

Out of these codes, You should only be concerned with Crankshaft sensor. Change it.
For Mass Airflow Sensor, clean it with MAF cleaner and clean the electrical connection as well. Do you have aftermarket air filter? This might throw the sensor off balance.

Exhaust temperature codes are engineering codes, and will always remain. Do not worry about it.
Solenoid valve code is for VANOS exhaust solenoid. It will not make your car "NOT START". Do not worry about that too.

I would bleed the coolant first, check Mango's thread on cooling system. I suspect air pocket and thermostat issue.

Clean the crankshaft sensor and connection with MAF cleaner as well and try starting the car.

I am pretty sure you have a BMW scanner 1.4, there is a way to reset DME adaptations. I think I posted the screenshots in Kmoy2002's BMW scanner thread. Do that first.

PS: DME shouldnt be the issue for your key fob. First rectify the mechanical issues in your car. You can test the keyfob battery in any auto parts store. And if the battery is good check if the key is initialized to the car with BMW scanner. If not code the car to accept it and then sync the key with the car. You can search for the steps, there plenty of threads on it.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:38 AM   #10
Eniaro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trj View Post
Crankshaft sensor. Change it.
Tried changing it cant get to it
Quote:
Originally Posted by trj View Post
For Mass Airflow Sensor, clean it with MAF cleaner and clean the electrical connection as well. This might throw the sensor off balance.
Cleaned it = No change I'm assuming I have to change it
Quote:
Originally Posted by trj View Post
Do you have aftermarket air filter?
The car is completely stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by trj View Post
Exhaust temperature codes are engineering codes, and will always remain. Do not worry about it.
Car smokes not severely but idle for too long its noticeable however switching to Shell gas seems to decrees it over a time
Quote:
Originally Posted by trj View Post
Solenoid valve code is for VANOS exhaust solenoid. It will not make your car "NOT START". Do not worry about that too.
?

Quote:
Originally Posted by trj View Post
I would bleed the coolant first, check Mango's thread on cooling system. I suspect air pocket and thermostat issue.
Trying to get time to do it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trj View Post
I am pretty sure you have a BMW scanner 1.4, there is a way to reset DME adaptations. I think I posted the screenshots in Kmoy2002's BMW scanner thread. Do that first.
I do, I and I did The crank sensor error went away, in fact most went away
Quote:
Originally Posted by trj View Post
PS: DME shouldnt be the issue for your key fob. First rectify the mechanical issues in your car. You can test the keyfob battery in any auto parts store. And if the battery is good check if the key is initialized to the car with BMW scanner. If not code the car to accept it and then sync the key with the car. You can search for the steps, there plenty of threads on it.
Key was dead -Replaced

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax
Sounds like you have an airleak too, but that might be from a bad sensor.
Had hole in the Air intake boot, I replaced it.

UPDATE: Car left me stranded wont start, same temp no start. While waiting on a I friend I noticed a rapid ticking/clicking noise coming from the DME/Fuse/Relay Enclosure. Fast forward friend arrives we open the box found what appears to be a relay with #61.36-6 915 327 making the noise gonna run to the stealership get it and replace it I'm hoping this is my only problem.

Last edited by Eniaro; 04-09-2013 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:35 AM   #11
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Eniaro, if car won't start and you do have error code for crank sensor (thought you might cleared it now), I would change it if I were you. CPS is relatively inexpensive and easy to change (accept for the Sonata that I help a friend with last week - it is a PITA). You don't want to get stuck somewhere and a toweling bill. Now, for the the temp gauge pegged all the way to red zone when you first starting the car - quick and inexpensive way is to double check to make sure your pos and neg post on your battery seated properly. Why not do a CPU reset! It happened to me on my 740iL before. If the temp gauge fluctuate (middle to red) then I would say you need to bleed your cooling system properly (as dmax an trj mentioned before) and if it stay in RED zone all the time (please do not drive the car until it fix) then I would change T-stat. Hope this will help
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:13 AM   #12
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I doubt the DME is actually bad. One cheap thing you can do is clean all the electrical connectors and properly re-apply the white grease (where appropriate) to prevent future corrosion
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:16 AM   #13
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It's probably be the DME/main relay.
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:53 AM   #14
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No, the crankshaft error is in shadow memory, which is just a way of tracking the history of the car.. Your no start symptom along with the electrical glitches makes me believe that your ignition switch is at fault. Very common and a number of members have reported similar issues that have gone after replacement. The CANBUS errors can also be caused by that. I had the same errors when my ignition switch started acting weird.
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:56 AM   #15
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Yeah dme rarely if ever go bad. You'd have to pour water over it. That can timeout dme error can occur if you're not able to start your car. I've had it happen due to many other issues related to no starting. I'd unplug the maf sensor and try running your car.

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Old 04-09-2013, 03:13 PM   #16
Eniaro
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Change the relay Car still wont start Guess I gotta getit towed

Quote:
Originally Posted by pppham View Post
Eniaro, if car won't start and you do have error code for crank sensor (thought you might cleared it now), I would change it if I were you. CPS is relatively inexpensive and easy to change (accept for the Sonata that I help a friend with last week - it is a PITA). You don't want to get stuck somewhere and a toweling bill. Now, for the the temp gauge pegged all the way to red zone when you first starting the car - quick and inexpensive way is to double check to make sure your pos and neg post on your battery seated properly. Why not do a CPU reset! It happened to me on my 740iL before. If the temp gauge fluctuate (middle to red) then I would say you need to bleed your cooling system properly (as dmax an trj mentioned before) and if it stay in RED zone all the time (please do not drive the car until it fix) then I would change T-stat. Hope this will help
I tried changing the crank sensor three times I couldn't get to it.
Temp gage doesn't fluctuate just stays in the redzone until its ready to allow me to start it, the EML light flashes for a brief second just before the temp Gage goes down
Both cables a firmly seated checked too many times.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaymemaurice View Post
I doubt the DME is actually bad. One cheap thing you can do is clean all the electrical connectors and properly re-apply the white grease (where appropriate) to prevent future corrosion
No corrosion/dirt/water etc anywhere inside the enclosure its pretty clean actually.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scarede46er View Post
No, the crankshaft error is in shadow memory, which is just a way of tracking the history of the car.. Your no start symptom along with the electrical glitches makes me believe that your ignition switch is at fault. Very common and a number of members have reported similar issues that have gone after replacement. The CANBUS errors can also be caused by that. I had the same errors when my ignition switch started acting weird.
The stealership changed the ignition switch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NumbaOneNewb View Post
Yeah dme rarely if ever go bad. You'd have to pour water over it. That can timeout dme error can occur if you're not able to start your car. I've had it happen due to many other issues related to no starting. I'd unplug the maf sensor and try running your car.

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Id have till later to try that.

Changed the relay -> same $#!+ ticking/clicking no start. sound like a wound up toy that ticks/clicks as it moves
Can a dying/bad battery cause this?
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:54 PM   #17
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For some reason, I feel like this will end up being a battery issue..... How old is your battery? I've heard that, when they start to fail, they cause strange electrical problems.
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:09 PM   #18
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This is a DME issue. The temperature gauge going to the red immediately means that the DME is in programming/safe mode. Your EEPROM is most likely corrupted and you will need to get the DME replaced.
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:16 PM   #19
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Eniaro, right now the car will crank but won't start, right? Or it is not cranking at all?
I am no mechanic here, but if ur car crank and won't start, then I would go back to the basic if you have fuel and sparks. If you do then I would bet on the crank sensor. If is not crank then you might have another issues with the immobilizer system (you can verify by using another key).
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:22 PM   #20
Eniaro
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For some reason, I feel like this will end up being a battery issue..... How old is your battery? I've heard that, when they start to fail, they cause strange electrical problems.
I'm honestly not sure I'd have to go back and check. I'd buy a new one but I have no cash its either tow or battery.
Quote:
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This is a DME issue. The temperature gauge going to the red immediately means that the DME is in programming/safe mode. Your EEPROM is most likely corrupted and you will need to get the DME replaced.
Would that cause the relay to tick like a machine gun? Place I bought the car from has been giving me a run around. They tried reprogramming a used one didn't work.
Quote:
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Eniaro, right now the car will crank but won't start, right? Or it is not cranking at all?
I am no mechanic here, but if ur car crank and won't start, then I would go back to the basic if you have fuel and sparks. If you do then I would bet on the crank sensor. If is not crank then you might have another issues with the immobilizer system (you can verify by using another key).
Crank no Start.
Temp gage drops and the EML light flashes it used to start

Last edited by Eniaro; 04-09-2013 at 04:26 PM.
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