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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 02-19-2013, 05:32 AM   #1
J LAU
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No More Rough Idling after.........(Video included)

My E46 325i has about 120,000 miles, and I have noticed that the idling was getting rough since a year or 2 ago. I was bored last week, and I finally had the chance to take a few things apart and cleaned them. At the same time, I found out my DISA valve was broken, and one of the two intake boots was slightly cracked.

I ended up saving a few bucks by fixing the DISA valve myself instead of buying a new one or getting the fix kit, but what I did was pretty much the same as what the fix kit does.

Cleaned parts
-ICV
-Throttle Body
-Mass Flow Sensor

The 2 videos below show the difference Before and After!!




Last edited by J LAU; 02-19-2013 at 05:33 AM.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:56 AM   #2
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I was able to fix my DISA as well. I had rebuilt my DISA by using a flap from another one. They were not the same exterior wise, but interior was identical.
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:20 PM   #3
J LAU
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Originally Posted by bmwcaptain View Post
i was able to fix my disa as well. I had rebuilt my disa by using a flap from another one. They were not the same exterior wise, but interior was identical.
+1
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:02 PM   #4
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The Disa is different. The ARM that goes into the flap is interchangeable. That is what breaks on the disa.
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Last edited by BMWCaptain; 02-28-2013 at 02:41 PM. Reason: Auto-save 1362084099
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:11 PM   #5
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What is interesting is the m54 DISA than the m52 DISA. It is bigger on the exterior and the hole it goes in, but the flap is identical on the inside. Why didn't BMW just use the same DISA?
Is it really? that's interesting.
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:50 PM   #6
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I'm having rough idling problems too but only when I first start the car in the morning. So mechanics thought it was the coils but it wasn't, and then they thought it was the spark plugs but it wasn't, and then suspected coolant leaking into cylinders, which it wasn't. Here's the strange part.... When I start the car in the morning, the idling is terrible and as much as I drive the car, it doesn't clear up. BUT if I turn the car off and then start it up a second later, the car is perfect again. Even if I restart after the car has only been running for 30 seconds, it runs perfectly. There's something about restarting the car that fixes the idling issue. Do you know what could be causing this? Thanks.
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:59 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by BarbaraBimmer View Post
I'm having rough idling problems too but only when I first start the car in the morning. So mechanics thought it was the coils but it wasn't, and then they thought it was the spark plugs but it wasn't, and then suspected coolant leaking into cylinders, which it wasn't. Here's the strange part.... When I start the car in the morning, the idling is terrible and as much as I drive the car, it doesn't clear up. BUT if I turn the car off and then start it up a second later, the car is perfect again. Even if I restart after the car has only been running for 30 seconds, it runs perfectly. There's something about restarting the car that fixes the idling issue. Do you know what could be causing this? Thanks.
Hum....that is very interesting. But how rough is the idle at first attempt.
I MIGHT be your fuel injector.
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarbaraBimmer View Post
I'm having rough idling problems too but only when I first start the car in the morning. So mechanics thought it was the coils but it wasn't, and then they thought it was the spark plugs but it wasn't, and then suspected coolant leaking into cylinders, which it wasn't. Here's the strange part.... When I start the car in the morning, the idling is terrible and as much as I drive the car, it doesn't clear up. BUT if I turn the car off and then start it up a second later, the car is perfect again. Even if I restart after the car has only been running for 30 seconds, it runs perfectly. There's something about restarting the car that fixes the idling issue. Do you know what could be causing this? Thanks.
i have this too, one or more lifters isn't pumping up fast enough. then the ecu detects misfire and shuts off spark to that cyliner, after restart the lifter is fully pumped up and works properly. i've heard you need to drive it hard for a few hundred miles to clear it out.
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:04 PM   #9
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That is a great suggestion. I wondered about it. The idling is very very rough at first but car is still drivable. But as much as I rev it, the injector doesn't clear up until I actually stop the car and then restart it. When the codes were read, it said cylinder 3 was wonky. How hard is it to change an injector? Is it a DYI?
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:06 PM   #10
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Lifters

Valmont, that is interesting. Thank you. I will check it out.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:38 AM   #11
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Barbara -- Mine does the same thing. Sometimes when cold I'll shut the car off and restart, and it's fine. Always seemed very strange to me, too, because I know the car hasn't run long enough to warm up. It's re-ignition that clears it up.

Valmont -- You say you have this problem as well, and mention driving it hard as a possible fix... Have you tried that yet, or are you in the process of doing so? Interesting, because I baby my old car (2000 w/ 180k miles) on the mostly short trips I take in town and haven't revved it up hard in a long, long time.

Also, have you guys noticed this problem being worse when not driving much, and in colder weather? That's how mine has been. When I was driving it regularly and in the summer/fall in warm weather, it almost never did this. Last fall I bought a 128 and haven't been driving the e46 as much, and the problem happens a lot more often. Still happens much more on cold days, though.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:43 AM   #12
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BarbaraBimmer I have this same issue with our 2000 328. It started with a cam position sensor change. The only issue i had was the cam sensor. I bought a non-oem sensor and put it in and then alll of a sudden i am getting this really rough idle on start up and then i key off and on and it's fine. Mine has this pattern of 3 which is very repeatable. I've started wondering if it's because there are 3 engine position sensors (2 cam and 1 crank). Anyways, I've been told i need to ditch the aftermarket cam senor and go with oem. i am going to do that. if it clears it up entirely i will let you know in case this is what is going on with yours. Through all the diagnostics and parts the folks who worked on your car changed, did they replace the position sensors and if so with what kind of parts?
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:49 AM   #13
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injectors are easy to change

Quote:
Originally Posted by BarbaraBimmer View Post
That is a great suggestion. I wondered about it. The idling is very very rough at first but car is still drivable. But as much as I rev it, the injector doesn't clear up until I actually stop the car and then restart it. When the codes were read, it said cylinder 3 was wonky. How hard is it to change an injector? Is it a DYI?
Your injectors are easy to change.

You take the engine cover off first. Then you disconnect the harness from the injector.
Un-bolt the 2 10mm bolts holding the fuel rail down.
Pull your rail up with the injectors. Change out the one you need to, then reinstall.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:51 AM   #14
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TonyKim -- Just posted in your CPS thread... But at least for me, the problems I had with my bad CPS were different from this low idle problem. The bad CPS caused low RPMs and even outright dying not only at start but also when slowing down to a stop after driving around (like slowing/stopping to make a left turn across traffic, for instance -- very dangerous). So from the way it's described, I *think* this is different from your problem... Plus your 3040 code is being thrown, which is the same I had and hasn't come back since I put in the OEM CPS.
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:53 PM   #15
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Mine idles rough and almost stalls for the first minute or two during cold start drives. After it warms up the issue goes away.
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:16 PM   #16
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my 328 did the idle surge until warmed up from the day it was new from the showroom. the dealer replaced just about everything including modules, MAF, coil packs, etc. and it had no effect. The reason I changed my cps was that i was getting the periodic stall like chocolatelab described. i had that symptom and the bank a cps and cps circuit faults. now with the new meyle sensor it misses and idles rough and the same fault codes are still present. the bonus is that now i have other cylinders that periodically won't run. with the turn of a key switch it goes away. putting the old cps back in this evening.
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:30 AM   #17
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Yes! Definitely happens much, much more when the weather is cold! I've been blasting the fuel injectors with STP injector cleaner in the gas tank each week. The problem has hugely subsided but I'm not sure if it is because I loosened a sticky injector or if it's because the weather has been warmer.
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:34 AM   #18
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BMWCaptain, thanks for the fuel injector tutorial. I might give it a try. I will keep you posted. I love my SportWagon so much. I hate to see it sputter. ;-(
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