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Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > The Showroom

The Showroom
This is the place to show off your BMW to other members of the community. Post pictures and videos of your car and the modifications you have done to it. If you need a picture of something on a coupe, sedan, convertible or touring you will probably find it here!

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Old 09-02-2014, 03:53 PM   #1
Fizban
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2000 E46 328ci Restoration and Modification (subframe, Quaife, Janus, lots of pics)

Hello all,
A year ago a bought an old 2000 E46 328ci as a daily driven car. The car was not in good shape, but i bought it since in my country, all non M E46 328 came automatic. This one was converted to manual, so i thought it would be a good start to learn on BMWs. The previous owner of the car had installed a turbo on it, but melted a piston due to incorrect tuning. All pistons were replaced and the turbo was removed. The owner also installed original, 2 part BBS 18" wheels and KW V2 coil-overs. Compression ration is now 9:1 instead of 10.5:1 due to the shaving of pistons for the previous turbo project

In this thread i will describe all the stuff i've done to fix this car, and somewhat Improve it. I've learned a lot on the E46 and spend a lot as well.
I used a lot of info from this site, so i think it would only be fair if i'd write my own experience on the car. Hopefully someone will find it usable.

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Last edited by Fizban; 10-27-2014 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 09-05-2014, 02:39 PM   #2
BartenderPlease
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Location: FL
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My Ride: 328i Sport
Hate to tell you this, but the static compression ratio of that car maths out to being lower than advertised for all the e46's. The 330i comes out to 9.1:1 assuming it is a 0.7 mm head gasket and the valve reliefs come out to a 3 cc estimate.

What have you done to it so far? Good luck to you!
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Last edited by BartenderPlease; 09-05-2014 at 02:40 PM.
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Old 09-05-2014, 05:45 PM   #3
Fizban
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Be that as it may, I know that more compression was shaved from the pistons.
Thanks of the info.

There were few stuff that had to be fixed immediately:

1. Black windows which were a real problem seeing through at night.
2. Headlight Xenon kit which stopped working, The previous owner drove with fog lights.
3. Aftermarket Headlights which were causing the light computer show that all bulbs are out.
4. There was no Window washer liquid tank installed. The previous owner opened the sun roof and poured water to clean the windows when needed...
5. External air temperature was disconnected.
6. ASC light on (without ABS)

So I removed the black window stickers. Thrashed the xenon kit and installed regular bulbs to see something at night, and got the light computer sorted out. Installed the washer tank with pump and low fluid sensor. Installed the external air temperature sensor.
I also installed a new fan relay since the fan speed could not be changed (in the cabin, i mean). I saved the ASC for later, after i could connect to the computer.

Than I went into fix other stuff:

The top vents were broken, so i got a used working one from Ebay



Got some original BMW emblems for the car front, back and wheels



I changed the LED back lights to something with regular bulbs. Also added a chasis negative to the back lights (it was a common failure in BMWs)





Bought new angel eyes headlights since the odler ones were also aftermarket with white LEDs and confused the light computer



fixed all the wiring harness for the lights (since it was split for the LED head lights)



top - older headlights, middle and bottom - new headlights



Got an adapter 20pins to 16 since my car had only the round OBD connector.



Bought BMW Scanner to check the problems of the computer




I also replaced the rear broken ash tray - i hate broken stuff.

Next - i will post my findings after connecting to the DME and list the problems and stuff i did to fix them.

Last edited by Fizban; 10-23-2014 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 09-05-2014, 06:24 PM   #4
BartenderPlease
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Thats an awesome start. I wish the 20 pin adapter and interface were the first on my list of things back when I got mine.

If you got one more cable, the "INPA cable" found on Amazon or something, you can get a copy of EDIABAS online for free and have access to many more diagnostic features and modifications as well.
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Old 09-07-2014, 03:43 AM   #5
Fizban
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Thanks.
Actually, i do have an INPA cable. Just hadnt got around to get EDIABAS yet. The BMW Logger got most of the errors that the scanner in the BMW garage read.
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Old 09-07-2014, 09:29 PM   #6
brickhaus
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HAve you done or have any plans to do a rear subframe refresh? I need to do mine bad, not a lot of time and money being at school. Im just glad it will be driven very little with my mom driving it
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Old 09-09-2014, 06:56 AM   #7
Fizban
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I have plans to do the subframe refresh. in fact, I've already have the parts from Turner. I will get to that and post more pics soon.
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Old 09-14-2014, 04:42 PM   #8
Fizban
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So, continuing the repairs:

1. Fixed the reverse lights, which were shorted out because of an exposed cable in the gearbox.
2. I started getting hot air from the passenger side. Checking with this forum concluded it might be the water bypass valve. I bought it and replaced it + added gas to the A/C. Everything was cool again.
3. Steering controls for radio were almost white from usage. I bought a pair of used ones (since new were too expensive in ECS) and replaced them as well.
4. New fuel pressure regulator replaced the old, non OEM one.
5. I connected my phone with Dash Command to the DME and saw that short term fuel trims are on 0% and the status is OL-fault. It too me a while to figure out what the problem was. I even opened a thread here.
I consulted Stanley Manual and finally got a lead: Next to the DME there is a fuse box which has the fuse for the O2 sensors. I checked it with a friend it we saw the O2 fuses are burnt. We replaced the fuse and it burned again when i turned the switch on again. We opened the wire harness and discovered all the wires have melted and were shorted. Se we fixed that and finally i DME went into closed loop again.
6. I also discovered that my car was EU2 tuned, since i have only front O2 sensors.
7. The DME had a pin twisted and merged with another pin. That caused EWS error code and also the aux fan was not working. We fixed that as well.


Pic of the melted wires:



Fuses i've burnt during the process:




8. The OEM exhaust manifold has empty cats, so i bought Ebay manifold (after checking the threads of Ebay manifolds here) and 2 magnaflow CATs. Then we build the whole exhaust pipes from stainless still, and used the original back muffler for now.













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Old 09-15-2014, 01:50 PM   #9
Speedy12139
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Off to a pretty solid start. car looks good, but those headlights.... look too "ricey" to me. just my 2cents
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Old 09-15-2014, 02:29 PM   #10
Fizban
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Thanks, maybe they are a little ricey, but the ones before were white halo rings and xenons, which are considered even more ricey (at least to me).
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Old 09-15-2014, 03:24 PM   #11
Speedy12139
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very true...

I'm just more of a fan of stock lights, with "upgrades"
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Old 10-23-2014, 02:36 PM   #12
Fizban
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Continuing the work on the car (note it was 1 year ago):
Since E46s use OBD2 (though a slow iso 9141 protocol), i thought it is time to get some software to display my gauges on a double din head unit.

Dash Command is an app for iOS or Android which use OBD2 and a module to display such data. The good thing with Dash Command is that they support App Radio mode on pioneer head units and also, they support PLX external sensors, unlike any other App on the market. This means i can add PLX sensors like Wideband or EGT and relay all information to the Mobile phone and to the headunit.

Since E46 dont really have room for a 2Din headunit, i need to get a Janus kit and do some hard work to make room for it.

I bought Appradio 3 head unit, steering will control module.

So what did I buy:
1. App Radio 3 unit (i bought the US version, which was a mistake - i'll elaborate later)
2. Wifi module to connect with the Phone - I bought a cheap ELM327 for starters and then i bought the Kiwi2 Wifi with support of PLX daisy chain sensors.
3. The 2Din frame
4. The plastic part which enable moving the A/C control instead of the small storage space in the center console.
5. Rear Camera which connects instead of one of the rear license plate lights
6. Steering control

















another good thing about Dash Command is that you can design your own gauges using software for windows call SkinXL. You can design all the logic, graphics, buttons and flow of your gauges. You then upload the skin to the community and everyone can try it.

I've designed such a skin which is number 2 in download numbers (the top one is the original skins that company designed....) - so i am proud of it.







And another skin i designed (the part of the O2 sensor voltage is shown here:



The mistake with buying the Appradio 3 US version is that the radio frequencies steps are 200khz and not 100khz as in Europe.

But now i bought the new NEX-4000 (the EU version is AVH-X8600BT) which supports Apple carplay and it would make life a lot easier, since you dont need HDMI cable and a special app to allow connection to the 2Din display.
with carplay the support is native.


Since I am planning a Supercharge on the car , i bought several external PLX sensors: 2 EGT, 2 WideBand and one oil Temp sensor.
The best placement for the oil temp sensor is instead of the Oil level sensor in the drain. Turner has a kit for it:



Sensor modules:



Sensor wires router to the cockpit (into the glove box where hte Wifi module is located):



The Wifi Kiwi2:



Rear Camera installed:



Here you can see the LED of the rear camera when i put the car on Reverse:







I also designed a new skin for the Dash Command community , which supports GM, BRZ and GT86 PIDs and PLX sensors, plus changing gauges style and type:

http://www.dashxl.net/dashboard.php?dashboard=881

And what i think is a nice pic of the car:

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Old 10-23-2014, 07:50 PM   #13
Gunsnbacon
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Looks like you are in the same boat as me, working on a 01 330ci. I love the thing but its eating a hole in my bank account lol. I have that m3 front as well, just haven't gotten around to painting it yet.
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Old 10-24-2014, 04:50 AM   #14
Fizban
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Yup, my bank account suffered a lot. Soon I will post the pics of the sub frame - the car is in the garage now.
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:13 PM   #15
Fizban
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Ok, these are recent pics.
The car is in the garage for sub frame refresh and other stuff:

UUC evo 3 shortshift kit + DSSR
Disa sealing
solid diff mounts
Powerflex subframe mounts
Quaife Diff (3.46:1)
Clutch stop - bigboy
Door stop
New Rubber intakes
ICV pipe
Turner Front subframe refresh
Turner Rear Subframe refresh



My mechanic started working on the rear subframe, you can see the horror and some past lame tries to repair:









Subframe down:





Cleaning before welding:













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Old 10-27-2014, 04:29 PM   #16
Fizban
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Start Welding:












































And this is the end of the lower rear part. Need to do the upper rear part and the front subframe.
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Old 10-27-2014, 05:14 PM   #17
Speedy12139
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I think a babboon could have laid better welds than that -.- smdh at someones shotty repair work
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Old 10-27-2014, 05:18 PM   #18
Fizban
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Which of these are you referring to - first pics, last pics or all of them?
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Old 10-27-2014, 05:21 PM   #19
Speedy12139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fizban View Post
Which of these are you referring to - first pics, last pics or all of them.
first pics, thoese welds sucked...

The fresh repair job (last pics), was well done
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Old 10-27-2014, 05:23 PM   #20
Fizban
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Yup, totally agree with you on this. The first welds seemed like chewing gums some kid glued to the mount point or something
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