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General E46 Forum
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Old 08-04-2014, 04:36 PM   #1
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Join Date: Aug 2014
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My Ride: 2002 325i
I think I need new brakes

I've been getting a grinding noise from my rear brakes when they're cold. The noise stops after the first few times I brake, but that's still a sign that I need to replace the rear pads right? Assuming that the case, should I go ahead and do the fronts as well? I took front (http://i.imgur.com/oZ9XojC.jpg) and rear (http://i.imgur.com/WrXNOyw.jpg) pics in case it helps.

If so, what pads do y'all recommend? I don't need anything crazy expensive or nothing, but I don't want to cheap out and get pads that won't stop the car effectively.

Finally, this will be my first time doing my brakes on my own. I know I'll need a torque wrench. Are there any other tools that I'll need beyond a basic socket set?

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Old 08-04-2014, 04:51 PM   #2
Zero. Leaks.
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Slow down tiger. No need to keep making new threads when the first one said it needs to be approved.

Anyways. You have to physically take off your wheels and inspect how much pad life you have left. If you can provide pics even better. If the edges of the rotors have a very wide lip on the end they might need replacing. Post pics and we will let you know.

You will need jack/stand, I think 7mm wrench for the caliper guides and 16/17mm socket for the caliper bracket. I would strongly suggest you get at least a 15" breaker bar.
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Old 08-04-2014, 05:44 PM   #3
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It's a little hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like the rear are completely worn.

I recently did mine. It's a 16 mm socket for caliper bracket. 7 mm hex bit for caliper guides, 6 mm hex bit for rotor locator screw if you are changing the rotor. Sometimes the rear rotor doesn't come off and you need to adjust the parking brake shoes to get it off.

I recommend the braker bar as well. The bracket bolts are on super tight sometimes. It's useful for taking off the lugnuts as well.

You don't need a torque wrench for brakes IMO.

Last edited by camrydriver111; 08-04-2014 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:08 PM   #4
Yewzer B Lewzer
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Yep. Looks like what's left of the pad is rubbing on the lip that Jake mentioned. Replace them very soon.

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^^Blue Ridge Parkway^^ '03 325i. '74 Jeep CJ-5. '93 Sailfish 170XL. '12 Westside SS Longboard. One of these four are sure to be running at any given point in time.
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:57 PM   #5
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Didn't the wear sensor go off? They usually go off way before you would get to metal on metal.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:02 PM   #6
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When you reassemble your brakes, you DO want to torque them to spec ...

The pad carrier 16mm bolts in the rear are tightened to 65nm (48 ft lb)
The caliper guide pins are 30nm (22 ft lb)
The rotor to hub screw (if you replace the rotor and the screw holding it to the hub) is 16nm (12 ft lb)

You may want to have your rotors turned/machined so the entire face of the rotor is flat, with no lip. Some people change the rotors when the brake pads are changed, but if there is enough metal in the rotor to be turned, that works fine.
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brakes, e46

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