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Old 03-10-2013, 10:47 AM   #1
bloodredbimmer
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The dreaded DSC and EML lights hit me.

I recently replaced a faulty coil on my 330ci that was causing it to misfire. After I fixed it I didn't drive it for a couple days and yesterday when I was headed to work the car threw up the lights and the throttle was unresponsive. I would be cruising at 2k RPM and if I floor it, it would barely do anything or nothing. Then when I was driving it home and was coming to a stop it just turned off on me. The RPM's dropped smoothly all the way down to 0. What are the most common problems? I've seen MAF, IRC, and TB to be some common ones. Did I maybe do something wrong while I was replacing the coil? Thanks.
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:09 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bloodredbimmer View Post
I recently replaced a faulty coil on my 330ci that was causing it to misfire. After I fixed it I didn't drive it for a couple days and yesterday when I was headed to work the car threw up the lights and the throttle was unresponsive. I would be cruising at 2k RPM and if I floor it, it would barely do anything or nothing. Then when I was driving it home and was coming to a stop it just turned off on me. The RPM's dropped smoothly all the way down to 0. What are the most common problems? I've seen MAF, IRC, and TB to be some common ones. Did I maybe do something wrong while I was replacing the coil? Thanks.
the same thing happen to me about a week and still haven't found the problem. I would recommend buying a scanner it will save you time and money. Also I would check for any cracks/tips around the intake boots and clean the ICC and the TB. I would check your DISA.
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:46 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by bloodredbimmer View Post
I recently replaced a faulty coil on my 330ci that was causing it to misfire. After I fixed it I didn't drive it for a couple days and yesterday when I was headed to work the car threw up the lights and the throttle was unresponsive. I would be cruising at 2k RPM and if I floor it, it would barely do anything or nothing. Then when I was driving it home and was coming to a stop it just turned off on me. The RPM's dropped smoothly all the way down to 0. What are the most common problems? I've seen MAF, IRC, and TB to be some common ones. Did I maybe do something wrong while I was replacing the coil? Thanks.
Crank position sensor. I was driving along and out of the blue it was like the engine stalled (felt like someone slamming on the brake for an instance) and amber DSC and handbrake lights came on and stayed on. Got a crank position sensor code. Replaced it with OEM part.
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:55 PM   #4
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When my car turned off I happened to be in neutral at a stop sign so I don't know if it would've braked hard like that. The brake warning light didn't come on for me though.
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:09 PM   #5
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When my car turned off I happened to be in neutral at a stop sign so I don't know if it would've braked hard like that. The brake warning light didn't come on for me though.
It was probably a stall in my case. I was doing about 35 at the time so the car would have restarted anyway. It was a jerk. It just felt like a quick stamp on the brakes. But the crank position sensor is key. If it stops working, even momentarily, the engine stops. You may not get a fault code either. I know I didn't the first time it happened. Did the second time.
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:39 PM   #6
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Do you know if there's a way to check if the sensor is bad?
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:35 PM   #7
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Do you know if there's a way to check if the sensor is bad?
Not really. These sensors are basically just permanent magnets with coils wrapped around them. You can put a meter accross the pins and check resistance and continuity of the circuitry but its not only that which determines its functional efficiency. Its also dependant on the magnetic flux density of the permanent magnet and that tends to deteriorate with time expecially in hot environments which is what you have down there near the flywheel. You would need to know what the density should be and you would also need the equipment to measure what it is and that's not easy to come by. Anyway, the cps is located just above the starter motor and you have to get under the car to remove it so if you are going to go to the trouble of removing it then you might as well put a new one in its place. They are not that expensive. You can get an OEM one for about $90.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:29 PM   #8
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a few months ago my car had a hard time turning over, to the point where it not longer turned over- just a click and the priming of the fuel pump. Stupid me diagnosed that it was my starter, so i replaced that which did turn the car over- but my car went into limp mode with the brake light and DSC on- also the transmission light came on (I had an auto) when i was driving. Finally took it to the dealer after nearly shitting my pants i ruined my car- it was the crankshaft sensor. $714 dollars after tax and diagnosis for me
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:04 PM   #9
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Update: i unplugged the MAF and went for a drive. Runs better and no eml and dsc lit up. Is the MAF my problem?
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:05 PM   #10
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a few months ago my car had a hard time turning over, to the point where it not longer turned over- just a click and the priming of the fuel pump. Stupid me diagnosed that it was my starter, so i replaced that which did turn the car over- but my car went into limp mode with the brake light and DSC on- also the transmission light came on (I had an auto) when i was driving. Finally took it to the dealer after nearly shitting my pants i ruined my car- it was the crankshaft sensor. $714 dollars after tax and diagnosis for me
$714 dollars just to replace the censor?!
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:46 AM   #11
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$714 dollars just to replace the censor?!
Alot of that was probably diagnosing the issue.



But for you're problem It could be an intake leak. I had the dsc, abs lights on and I read somewhere that improper TB function can cause this. Turned out I had a half dollar sized hole in an intake boot. Ill chime in again later after I get some sleep.
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:18 AM   #12
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Yeah its your maf. Happened to me. Try cleaning it but its a very temporary solution.

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Old 03-25-2013, 08:09 AM   #13
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Yeah its your maf. Happened to me. Try cleaning it but its a very temporary solution.

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I've already cleaned it and same problem. I'm going to replace it with a new one.
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:53 AM   #14
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I've already cleaned it and same problem. I'm going to replace it with a new one.
Update?
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:07 AM   #15
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[QUOTE=TArse;15281455]Alot of that was probably diagnosing the issue.

Unfortunately the BMW dealership in my city charges a flat rate of about 180 for diagnosis. Part was about 200, labor and shop charges and tax made it just over 700. Ripoff!
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:19 PM   #16
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Just try disconnecting it and see if your car runs better
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:22 PM   #17
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Wait a sec here.don't tell me I just heard you mention the maf sensor and labor in the same topic. If you can't do it yourself, wow.if you can cook eggs you can do it
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:27 PM   #18
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Wait a sec here.don't tell me I just heard you mention the maf sensor and labor in the same topic. If you can't do it yourself, wow.if you can cook eggs you can do it
That wasn't for the MAF lol I'd hope no one would need to go to the dealer for that. When I unplug it, it runs better so I'm pretty sure it's the MAF. I still haven't got around to changing it
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:56 AM   #19
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I've had some of your same issues. I have run the car with the maf unplugged and sometimes it will run better for a while, but I've had the problems return even with it unplugged. Mine gets really stupid sometimes, occasionally the gas pedal is completely unresponsive for a while although the car is sitting there idling. Thankfully it has woken up every time before I had to get out and push.
It's been a while since you posted, I'm curious if you found anything.
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