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Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > E46 Convertible

E46 Convertible
The E46 vert forum. Talk about dropping your E46 top here.

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Old 04-25-2014, 04:22 PM   #61
Pay-141
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My Ride: 325ci convertable
I've posted this in a new one earlier but can any one point me in the right direction ?


Thanks.


Got a problem with my 325ci



When I go to put the roof down the soft top attempts to go down fast then it gets slower and then stops, the back struggles to lift then eventually just stops half way open and then everything just stops all together, the red light blinking...



I also found some oil in my boot well





Any ideas of what's going on?



Thanks !


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Old 08-24-2014, 11:24 AM   #62
Bish
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Sounds like one of your motors is on it's way out


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Old 08-28-2014, 10:09 AM   #63
TopHydraulicsInc.com
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Bish,

thank you for following up. Pay-141 was new to the forum when he posted his questions, and he also started a new thread at the time with identical content. The forum responded only to the new thread at the time. He had a problem with the left tonneau cover cylinder 54348243269. We rebuild a lot of those at Top Hydraulics: http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/b...cover-e46.html

Klaus

www.tophydraulicsinc.com
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Some BMW E46 hydraulic cylinders, pumps, and valves that we rebuild and upgrade at Top Hydraulics:
54347025593
54347025600
54347025599
54348236956
54348243269
543454347025595 (hydro-unit, sticker p/n is 8234530)
54347025592 (control unit)
54347025598 (improved hoses manufactured at Top Hydraulics)
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/56-bmw-e46
www.tophydraulicsinc.com

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Old 11-15-2014, 06:18 PM   #64
gdhahs
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Smile Top Hyfraulics is the Best Source for E46 Convertible Top Parts

I have owned several BMW convertibles over the years and the newer ones have become pretty complicated with the all of the hydraulic motors and parts that make the top work properly. My top stopped working and the dealer wanted an outrageous amount for a new hydraulic pump and valve block. I found Top Hydraulics on this site and they are the best source to go to when you need these and other parts for your top. It's nice to be able to call and talk to Klaus and get a better idea of the issue and what may be causing the problem. He quickly shipped the hydraulic pump first at a huge savings over the dealer and I received it in two days. I then learned that I also needed a valve block and I called and Klaus quickly shipped the part. Both parts were installed at the dealer and the top now works. In addition to quality refurbished parts the team at Top Hydraulics provides top notch customer service. These guys are real pro's and an asset to the E46 forum!
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Old 03-10-2015, 09:47 PM   #65
tonysalib
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Great guides here guys, thanks a lot for sharing this priceless info.

I'm going to be following raichean's guide to remove one of my bow cylinders as it is leaking. Anyone here from Sydney that can recommend Tophydraulics' Australian equivalent that can repair it for me?

I would prefer to give it to a place that specialises in convertible tops cylinders rather than just a generic hydraulics repair one.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated and again thanks heaps for the detailed guides.
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Old 03-11-2015, 08:12 AM   #66
raichean
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Originally Posted by tonysalib View Post
Great guides here guys, thanks a lot for sharing this priceless info.

I'm going to be following raichean's guide to remove one of my bow cylinders as it is leaking. Anyone here from Sydney that can recommend Tophydraulics' Australian equivalent that can repair it for me?

I would prefer to give it to a place that specialises in convertible tops cylinders rather than just a generic hydraulics repair one.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated and again thanks heaps for the detailed guides.
I am just really glad to help honestly.. folks on these forums have helped me so many times, I see it as paying it forward as it were.

Looking through Sydney listings on the web, I don't see anyone that mentioned automotive hydraulics off hand, but lots of places that say they do custom repairs. Also just a thought? Maybe check postage to send it to and back from Top Hydraulics? I know it may be a lot, but cant hurt to check knowing they will do the job RIGHT the first time? You know at LEAST Klaus will do the job absolutely right, and if the price isn't THAT much more, maybe worth it?

Also, make sure to pull both cylinders while you have them out, because if one is leaking the other will soon as well.
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Old 03-11-2015, 12:05 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by tonysalib View Post
I'm going to be following raichean's guide to remove one of my bow cylinders as it is leaking. Anyone here from Sydney that can recommend Tophydraulics' Australian equivalent that can repair it for me?
tonysalib, welcome to the forum!

I am not aware of anyone else rebuilding BMW E46 cylinders. Even if some hydraulic shop around the corner managed to get the cylinders open, they wouldn't have the seals, and they would have a hard time closing the cylinder afterwards. These seals are not available off the shelf, even in lower quality.

You would probably have to pay an arm and a leg for replacement cylinders in Australia, based on what I am told about spare parts prices down under. In the US, you would already end up paying over $1k for a pair of bow (clamping bar) cylinders p/n 54347025600. That should make the decision easy to have Top Hydraulics upgrade your cylinders to better than new condition for a fraction of the price.

Please consider sending us at least both bow cylinders. They fail at almost the same time, because they have identical seals in them that are of the same age and have been exposed to the same conditions. All seals in your original cylinders will fail; it's only a matter of time. We expect Top Hydraulics' seals to outlast the OEM seals by a factor of three, under equal conditions. Most overseas customers have us upgrade the full set of cylinders, on account of transit time and shipping cost, and to get the job done right the first time around. Hint: we offer core exchange for the full set of cylinders... :-)

Shipping to and from Sydney isn't bad. Lately, the average transit time to Sydney has been 6 days via Postal Service Express Mail. We would charge $50 for Express Mail return shipping regardless of whether we are shipping back one or two cylinders. Once the weight passes 4 pounds, the shipping rate jumps up to $80 for shipping to Australia.

One comment about removing the right side bow cylinder: this is the trickier one to remove, because it has the lines attached. We recently put a complete E46 top on a test bench just to see it in operation with different pressure settings on a pump. We thought we'd give the bow cylinder removal a shot, just to see how involved it is. The verdict is, it's pretty simple when you know how... ;-) On the positive side, we were able to peel off the cloth that's wrapped around the bottom of the rear bow (window section), and put it back on without use of glue or damaging it. There are some plastic pieces in the lower corners that take close examination to see how they come apart. Once you know how they are put together, it's easy to deal with them. They have rivet style tabs in them, where you need to push out a pin first from one side before the tab can be removed. I wish I had taken photos at the time. Hopefully, some esteemed forum member can take pics of those details, so that we can add them to raychean's already awesome removal instructions.

Klaus

Top Hydraulics, Inc
www.bmwcylinders.com
www.tophydraulicsinc.com
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/56-bmw-e46
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Some BMW E46 hydraulic cylinders, pumps, and valves that we rebuild and upgrade at Top Hydraulics:
54347025593
54347025600
54347025599
54348236956
54348243269
543454347025595 (hydro-unit, sticker p/n is 8234530)
54347025592 (control unit)
54347025598 (improved hoses manufactured at Top Hydraulics)
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/56-bmw-e46
www.tophydraulicsinc.com

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Old 03-11-2015, 07:58 PM   #68
tonysalib
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Thanks raichean and Klaus for all the tips - I will sure keep them in mind.

Klaus, I will do a bit more research in Sydney and if no avail I will sure be in touch with you to organise something.

Thanks again guys (these are great forums for a new E46 owner )
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Old 03-14-2015, 09:37 AM   #69
drpassar@aol.com
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DIY: Convertible hydraulic cylinders and lines

Headliner- this guide was great convertable works great. Replaced #23.. the one thing I still need help on is the headliner . Removed a month ago to repair bat wings. Reinstallation is giving me trouble . Seems to be straps on pillar above rear window that carry the insulation?? Don't remember how these were strung??

Last edited by drpassar@aol.com; 03-14-2015 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 03-16-2015, 07:35 AM   #70
tonysalib
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Hi guys, I have the earlier model of the left bow tension cylinder where the lines cannot be separated from the cylinder and I need to remove both tension cylinders to get them repaired. So my problem is with lines #31 and #34; since i cannot separate these from the cylinder, I need to disconnect them from their other ends. I followed them and can see where they connect but I have no idea how to disconnect them from there (there is very little room to work with in there).

Can anyone please tell me how I can go on about this? How much stuff do i need to remove to get to them and how do they actually disconnect from whatever it is they're connected to?

Thanks.
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Old 03-16-2015, 11:03 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by tonysalib View Post
Hi guys, I have the earlier model of the left bow tension cylinder where the lines cannot be separated from the cylinder and I need to remove both tension cylinders to get them repaired. So my problem is with lines #31 and #34; since i cannot separate these from the cylinder, I need to disconnect them from their other ends. I followed them and can see where they connect but I have no idea how to disconnect them from there (there is very little room to work with in there).

Can anyone please tell me how I can go on about this? How much stuff do i need to remove to get to them and how do they actually disconnect from whatever it is they're connected to?

Thanks.
You probably mean the valve block.

Yes there is very little room to disconnect the lines from the valve block. It can be done with long pliers and lots of patience. Review the hydraulics sticky, in particular the instructions for Line 23/24. I detail how to remove line 23/24 from the valve block, and included photos that you could use to help with lines 31/34.

Otherwise you will need to remove the top from the vehicle... or at the very least loosen the top from the vehicle and lift it up to gain access to the valve block.
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Old 03-16-2015, 04:54 PM   #72
tonysalib
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Thans, Taylor. I'll give it try. Which tool is needed to open the valve and disconnect the line? (Sorry couldn't find it in the thread)
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Old 03-16-2015, 05:44 PM   #73
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Thans, Taylor. I'll give it try. Which tool is needed to open the valve and disconnect the line? (Sorry couldn't find it in the thread)
Pliers or a flat head screwdriver. The lines are held in by a clip that rotates, then the lines just pull out.
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Old 03-16-2015, 09:35 PM   #74
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Pliers or a flat head screwdriver. The lines are held in by a clip that rotates, then the lines just pull out.
Let me know if you can do this! I was actually following the bow cylinder HowTo tonight and got to the point of unhooking the hydraulic lines from the left cylinder and realized that they don't unhook!

I actually had come back to the thread looking for someone else with this very problem. I tried to see and I am having the hardest time making where 31/34 even hook into the valve block. I don't see how I could get in there to change them.

If you have any luck let me know and take a couple of pictures. In the mean time I wonder if it might not make sense to put a warning at the front of the bow cylinder HowTo warning you check to see which type you have and recommending pulling the whole roof in that case.

Even with my little setback I am nothing but grateful to all of you for this! It is a great resource!
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Old 03-17-2015, 10:49 AM   #75
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Let me know if you can do this! I was actually following the bow cylinder HowTo tonight and got to the point of unhooking the hydraulic lines from the left cylinder and realized that they don't unhook!

I actually had come back to the thread looking for someone else with this very problem. I tried to see and I am having the hardest time making where 31/34 even hook into the valve block. I don't see how I could get in there to change them.

If you have any luck let me know and take a couple of pictures. In the mean time I wonder if it might not make sense to put a warning at the front of the bow cylinder HowTo warning you check to see which type you have and recommending pulling the whole roof in that case.

Even with my little setback I am nothing but grateful to all of you for this! It is a great resource!
Did you review the DIY for line 23/24? It includes this photo that shows the lines on the valve block. It looks like 31/34 are on the top with line 23. Others have removed/inserted line 23 without removing the top, so lines 31/34 should be possible.

Double check the numbering. I can see 34, and it looks like the other is 31.

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Old 03-17-2015, 12:09 PM   #76
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Did you review the DIY for line 23/24? It includes this photo that shows the lines on the valve block. It looks like 31/34 are on the top with line 23. Others have removed/inserted line 23 without removing the top, so lines 31/34 should be possible.

Double check the numbering. I can see 34, and it looks like the other is 31.
Yep, that is what I thought as well. They are the ones that are perpendicular to the block. But those are not on the top in the car, they come out the side, like you can see in the next picture that shows the view of the block in it's natural habitat.

It could be that I just have fat stubby fingers, but I really cannot imagine getting those out, I will give it another look tonight. It would really like to avoid taking the whole thing out if I could...
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Old 03-17-2015, 03:04 PM   #77
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Yep, that is what I thought as well. They are the ones that are perpendicular to the block. But those are not on the top in the car, they come out the side, like you can see in the next picture that shows the view of the block in it's natural habitat.

It could be that I just have fat stubby fingers, but I really cannot imagine getting those out, I will give it another look tonight. It would really like to avoid taking the whole thing out if I could...
Stubby fingers would make this difficult. Enlist the help of a female.

The top doesn't need to be removed, just propped up. With all 8 nuts removed the top can be moves around a bit. If the electrical connectors and locking cables are disconnected, the hydraulic lines loosened from the clips, I bet the top could be propped up 6 inches by the valve block, giving you lots of room to work.

Although if you've come this far, removing the entire top is not much more work, maybe 30 mins. It is just heavy.
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Old 03-17-2015, 03:30 PM   #78
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BTW--the green push pin in the right side trunk trim (reference at the end of Step 1) should be the location of the emergency release strap for the fuel filler door, I think...
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Old 03-17-2015, 08:14 PM   #79
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I really tried to disconnect lines 31 and 34 without taking the top off and I personally just don't see how it's possible. I could barely touch the valve with 1 finger, let alone getting a tool in there to wiggle the plastic tab and then rotate the retainer to disconnect the lines.

So I gave up and decided to loosen the roof so i can lift it up just a few inches and gain access to the valve. Following "Step 7: Remove the top!" from Taylor's DIY (on page 1 of this thread), it's really not that hard.

Here are some pics I took:






This plastic tab was basically wrapped around the metal tab (as per above photo) sticking out from the metal retainer holding the lines. You basically have to wiggle it out with pliers.



Once you do that, you can then rotate the metal retainer anticlockwise to loosen the lines and pull them out.

Hope this helps you out, Ukko. Good luck.
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Old 03-17-2015, 11:07 PM   #80
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Thanks! I am going to try and do this later this week or on the weekend when I can get back into the garage.

Is your car Mystic Blue?
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