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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 03-25-2013, 09:27 PM   #61
scarede46er
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No brainer, do the engine. It's cheaper (although by just less than 10%) and you will not have to use a money shifted engine (although it's probably fine, but why risk it AND pay more money).
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:29 PM   #62
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bent valves...
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:35 PM   #63
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bent valves...
lolwhat?
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:44 PM   #64
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lolwhat?
I just read the title and told him what he fawked up....
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:29 AM   #65
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'm looking for a solid m54 for decently cheap... Does anyone know where I can get one? Any good vendors, or anyone know of a member around here with one? Cheapest I got is $2200 plus shipping from BAR. 82k miles. Isn't vanos usually shot by then, though?
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:12 AM   #66
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Any used engine that you might want to swap you should do vanos seals, ofhg, ccv and clean maf, throttle body and idle control valve. There should be more but at the very least this should be done.
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:04 PM   #67
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car-parts.com
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:43 PM   #68
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http://www.automotix.net/usedengines...to-engines.com
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:44 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by ThreeOhFive View Post
'm looking for a solid m54 for decently cheap... Does anyone know where I can get one? Any good vendors, or anyone know of a member around here with one? Cheapest I got is $2200 plus shipping from BAR. 82k miles. Isn't vanos usually shot by then, though?
do the rebuild on the vanos seals. $60 for seals Easy DIY or indy mechanic. Doesn't have to be the one putting in the engine. Or buy a rebuild from Dr. Vanos and return yours for the core charge. Will have to do the VCG too, but that's also cheap and easy. I would go ahead and do the OFHG too while it's out of the car - also cheap and easy (while out of car, labor intensive when in car).
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:50 AM   #70
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Got a guy to do my head removal for $500. The block has 39k on it, so I want to salvage it. We'll take the head off, and replace the valves that are damaged, have it cleaned up, decked, etc. He doesn't have a ton of experience with BMW's, but he did a ton of work on all my Camaro's, replaced injectors, rear main seals, rear end and seals, he does pretty good work, I was satisfied.

Do we need any specific tools for this car to remove the head?

I don't think he realizes how long of a job this is going to be lol, but he's already given me a quote he's sticking to, so I can't beat the price. I will be giving him a hand with the job, I really want to familiarize myself with the engine, and to oversee his work and make sure it's done right.

The car will also be getting a new headgasket, and all new head bolts. Waterpump, idler pulley and fuel pump are also getting replaced. The clutch will need replacement soon, it was slipping when I bought the car, but that can wait. I got a new clutch, and throw out bearing already, but it's $560 to install and resurface my flywheel. I will have $2,000 in matinence done in 3 weeks of owning it, I'm at my limit for one month!!!

I may try to get a personal loan to cover a little of this, if not, it's gonna be outta commision for a bit. I miss my car dearly.
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:55 AM   #71
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You need special tools to put the head back on. Be sure to try torquing the head bolts before removal, you might get away without thread-serting the block...but I would anyway.
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:12 AM   #72
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What tools do I need? Where can I get them?
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:47 AM   #73
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There are extensive DIYs on this forum. You'll have to do your own research.
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:50 AM   #74
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Links please?!
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Old 03-27-2013, 01:02 PM   #75
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You need special tools to re-time the engine. You also need female torx to get the head bolts out. The timing tools are pricy, but can be fabricated and or rented. Search around, it will help you tremendously. I am currently doing the exact same job so I have some very good links bookmarked. Like others have said, make sure you loosen and then re-torque your head bolts BEFORE you remove the head. It will save you a lot of trouble in the future. Removing the head isn't much of an obstacle. It's getting it all back together that's the bitch. It's somewhat difficult to get it timed unless you closely follow directions.

First, this is a good breakdown of the engine in it's entirety. It has links in segments, you can learn a lot here:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=899347

This is a guide for the job on the head. It's for M52, but basically the exact same thing:
http://ezflatscreen.com/carpages/m52headremoval.php

This is extremely thorough on the timing aspect:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=952124

Last edited by rudycoop; 03-27-2013 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:15 AM   #76
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I just don't get it. You I would think if I have bent valves you would definitely hear it when the engine runs... is there any possibility I could have just skipped the timing chain a few teeth? It's just missing bad. These cars have vvt right? That could explain compression being low on a few cylinders. Another fact to consider is the a/c condensor pulley shooting off.

I'm gonna have time and money invested into taking this head off, hate to do it for nothing, or, worst case, take it off and find a few mangled pistons! I wish I knew for certain what it is.

Seems you guys think that I'll need a valve job, though... I'm anxious to tear into it.
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:03 AM   #77
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Before you commit to anything, sounds like you need to be as sure as you can about what the damage actually is:
- Buy a $50 leakdown tester from ChinaFreight. Pressurize the bad cylinders. If valves are bent in a cylinder you should HEAR the air leaking, likely into the exhaust manifold or possibly the intake manifold.
- If you can borrow a video borescope [$150 from Costco if they still have them] remove the plugs and look carefully at the tops of the pistons. If the pistons hit the valves you will see the mark on the piston crown. If its really deep and gnarly think about the replacement engine vs the head job.

FWIW it has to be a mechanical overrev [shift from 3rd to second instead of 4th] to do this kind of damage. High rev in neutral is highly unlikely to cause it.

Last edited by APKhaos; 03-29-2013 at 11:04 AM.
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:47 AM   #78
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I remember my E30 325is. I money shifted that thing like 4 times well past 8k and nothing ever happened. Those cars are so sturdy. Good luck with your fiasco, hopefully things will turn up.
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Last edited by Caden; 03-29-2013 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 03-30-2013, 01:25 PM   #79
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Compression results for real.

Cyl
1... 20psi
2... 85psi
3... 35psi
4... 160psi
5... 40psi
6...160psi

Its starts up fine and runs, sounds okay, too.

Lean and misfire faults stored. Fuel pump tested at less than 1 bar.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:47 PM   #80
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Ouch. You need to take a good look at the top of the pistons in #1, 2, 3, and 5 before spending anything on head work. Those numbers suggest that there are a lot of badly bent and possibly broken valves.
If the pistons are badly scarred [or worse] its engine swap time. Sorry this happened to you. Unfortunately I've BTDT with a 911 on track.
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