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///M3 Forum
The BMW E46 ///M3 is the M version E46 and puts out an amazing 333 HP and 262 lb-ft of torque at stock specs! There are an amazing amount of modifications for both the coupe and convertible models so read up and get started modifying your cars today!

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Old 03-15-2013, 05:35 PM   #1
Bluebeef
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2001 M3 Recent Buy, Strange Problems

I recently got my hands on a 2001 Laguna Seca Blue M3, and am totally in love with it. I came from a '95 M3. I am having a few issues though, and the shop that tuned it up couldn't diagnose them. I'm hoping maybe you folks had some collective knowledge that might help.

1) If I don't give what seems to me (coming from the '95) excessive throttle while shifting, there is a nasty clunk sound from somewhere in the drivetrain. Feels like it's behind me, maybe the diff? I can avoid the sound by delaying when I would normally release the clutch, effectively giving it a bit more gas than what feels right. I've been driving it for 5 months and still feel like I'm a teenage girl learning my first stick shift. This also goes for when I push in the clutch. If my foot is off the throttle completely and I push the clutch in, I get a nice loud "clunka clunk"

2) When around 35mph and stepping on the throttle, something in the rear shudders. If I'm in 2nd and really pushing it, it can be violent. If I'm in 2nd and going easy, its not noticeable. Same goes for 3rd or 4th. Seems to have to do with the power I'm trying to put down at 35mph.

3) When making slow left-hand turns, something in the rear goes "ruuurrp ruuurp ruuurp". At first it sounded like one tire dragging as if it was a fixed axle. But it makes the same sound on gravel.

Sorry for the long post. I'm new so go easy on me. Some days I wish the E46 shifted and felt more like the E36.

Later!
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:02 PM   #2
///M Powerd
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I would start with changing the diff fluid to SAF-JX + FM booster, Part #83222282583.

This should help alleviate some of these symptoms.

Once the fluid is changed you can re-evaluate how the car feels and go from there.
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:26 PM   #3
Slyde
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+1

I second that action. Not a bad thing to do even without problems and it might just solve yours. Take a look a your Guibo while you are under the car.
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:45 PM   #4
Brevik
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Have you looked at the sub frame yet?
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:45 PM   #5
Bluebeef
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The shop changed the diff fluid with the additive. They also replaced the diff cover and rear bushing - not sure about the front bushings.

Is that diff fluid better than the OEM? I will get under the car as soon as the weather breaks and check the fluid levels just in case. I'll check the joint too. Thanks!
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:30 PM   #6
Slyde
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The aforementioned "SAF-JX + FM booster, Part #83222282583" is the OEM fluid, and there is a lot of consensus that it is the proper (and only) fluid to use in the M's differential.
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Old 03-16-2013, 01:52 AM   #7
HunterM3
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ouch. have the rear subframe looked at, from your description it sounds like you're a victim of a torn subframe.
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Old 03-16-2013, 06:06 AM   #8
greenhobby
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Check your RTABs

Sounds like it needs some work. Check the RSM's and RTABs as well. The diff does have a clunk when driving slow and taking turns (like figure 8 move), but you've got other sounds there as well. I agree with others, have the subframe checked immediately.

-gh
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Old 03-16-2013, 06:44 PM   #9
duramax
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strange problems

check your centre bearing around the driveshaft and the guibo .
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Old 03-16-2013, 10:36 PM   #10
VTEC_THIS
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These were the same issues I had with the torn subframe, for sure the first thing I would look, check the trunk for cracks and get it up on a lift ASAP
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:40 PM   #11
frank330ci03
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Subframe is def number 2. oh god, could be big big money sorry. Number 1 I think we all deal with.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:47 PM   #12
adamdifilippo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank330ci03 View Post
Subframe is def number 2. oh god, could be big big money sorry. Number 1 I think we all deal with.
Glad I'm not the only one for #1!

Second does sound like subframe to me. I'm not as mechanically inclined as others on here, so maybe I'm wrong
I did just read a few threads about diff bolts coming out, if one bolt fell out causing the diff to sag could it cause this symptom?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Bimmer App
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:52 AM   #13
steve bettencourt
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check drive shaft spider bearing or as everyone says the sub frame. Its kind of ironic that BMW would make the M3 with the same sub frame as a base model 3 series
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