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Old 03-20-2013, 08:08 PM   #1
Blind_Shooter
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Dyanamat entire e46?

Has anyone tried this or dynamated part of their car? I'm trying to figure out how much would be enough to do the whole car minus floor. Trunk, roof, doors if nothing else.

I believe the roof is 6x5 ft. which would be 30 sq ft. to begin with. So maybe 100 sq ft for the whole car?

Open to suggestions here.
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:16 PM   #2
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I've done my two rear doors, I didn't use Dynamat though. There is a very similar product called Frost King, you can get it at Home Depot. They use it in Bush Planes (so I've been told). My dad used it on his C5 Corvette and he said there was a big difference. I can't say I noticed a difference with doing my rear doors, I suppose if I spent more time in the back seat of the car I could notice it. Eventually I'm going to do my front doors and the trunk.
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:30 PM   #3
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Uhm first things first, why? To what end? That is a LOT of weight. If you don't also use mass loaded vinyl (MLV), and closed cell foam on top of it, it also won't reduce interior noise as much as you'd probably like.
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:34 AM   #4
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Uhm first things first, why? To what end? That is a LOT of weight. If you don't also use mass loaded vinyl (MLV), and closed cell foam on top of it, it also won't reduce interior noise as much as you'd probably like.
Long story short four 12"s and 2000 watts rms. Car is rattling bad as it is. Trying to cut down on that.

I own a 323i and it will never be fast. so not concerned about weight

DavidDee thanks for the suggestions i will look into frostking. I was actually looking at fatmat not dynamat
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:44 AM   #5
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I haven't used it on my cars but I've done it on my cousins mustang. We double layered it and MLV. It was a pain and took forever but rattle from the trunk went from a 10 to about a 1
You'll still get a little but of rattle. But make sure you do the floor that's where we got some of the best results. That and the trunk lid itself.
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:00 PM   #6
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Where is it rattling? These cars are pretty good in that regard. I'd target certain areas before doing everything. The cavities where the stock amplifier/other modules are can rattle. So can the rear deck, rear grills, etc. Also repalce all door panel clips and the like. Closed cell foam is far superior for preventing rattles than Dynamat, though both work. I doubt many- if any- rattles are coming from the floor or roof specifically. Maybe your map light region, but other than that, no. You could do the door panels (with a lot of bass they're pretty bad) delete your armrest, isolate the rear deck speaker grills and line that with fabric and Dynamat, line the trunk with Dynamat, get a well secured license plate holder, and then reassess the rattle situation.
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:21 PM   #7
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Im in the market for some dynamat as well. 2000rms must slap pretty hard! Are you on stock electrical system lol?
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:28 PM   #8
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I have thought about this as well I'm going with 1 maybe 2 sundowns sa-12s at 1500 watts rms at 1 ohm stable
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:29 PM   #9
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Long story short four 12"s and 2000 watts rms. Car is rattling bad as it is. Trying to cut down on that.
Pic of your setup?
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:12 PM   #10
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The rear deck and trunk are rattling out of control. Just sounds so ghetto.
In the past with dynamat it eliminated the rattle plus contained the bass inside the car gaining some db's.
I have no ski pass and the back seat doesnt come down. Had to remove the rear speakers just to get some bass inside the cabin.

The system bumps for sure, but right now I have 2 yellow top optimas to power it and I'm getting around 14 volts. Looking into a new alt. mmats 2000.1 is power hungry but efficient.

Please keep in mind this is still a rough setup and more temporary than anything.
It's hard to do everything yourself as a full time student.
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:17 PM   #11
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Here are the parts which rattle and you need to address:
- Powered trunk latch internal components (difficult fix- THIS IS YOUR #1 ENEMY)
- Rubber trunk vent flaps - located on both sides behind rear bumper (remove these)
- Rear bumper support brackets (straightforward fix, but requires removal of bumper)
- Speaker deck below rear window
- Licence plate

There is no need to Dynamat anything even remotely close to your entire car. You'd end up spending enough money on Dynamat to buy another 323.
Address only the specific problem areas.
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:44 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by ac_2007 View Post
Here are the parts which rattle and you need to address:
- Powered trunk latch internal components (difficult fix- THIS IS YOUR #1 ENEMY)
- Rubber trunk vent flaps - located on both sides behind rear bumper (remove these)
- Rear bumper support brackets (straightforward fix, but requires removal of bumper)
- Speaker deck below rear window
- Licence plate

There is no need to Dynamat anything even remotely close to your entire car. You'd end up spending enough money on Dynamat to buy another 323.
Address only the specific problem areas.
Is their any DIY's on how to fix these or are they pretty straight forward?
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Old 03-21-2013, 03:57 PM   #13
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^^ill be tackling some of these things in a week or two so I can try to write down the steps as I go for a diy.
that is hopefully if I can figure it all out
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:08 PM   #14
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^ That would be great im tackling some of the rattling in my car as well as well as some dynamat
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:20 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Blind_Shooter View Post
The rear deck and trunk are rattling out of control. Just sounds so ghetto.
In the past with dynamat it eliminated the rattle plus contained the bass inside the car gaining some db's.
I have no ski pass and the back seat doesnt come down. Had to remove the rear speakers just to get some bass inside the cabin.

The system bumps for sure, but right now I have 2 yellow top optimas to power it and I'm getting around 14 volts. Looking into a new alt. mmats 2000.1 is power hungry but efficient.

Please keep in mind this is still a rough setup and more temporary than anything.
It's hard to do everything yourself as a full time student.
What? 13.5V - 14V is exactly what our alt puts out stock.
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:48 PM   #16
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works well, and not too heavy
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:50 PM   #17
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^ That looks quite heavy...
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:54 PM   #18
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Is their any DIY's on how to fix these or are they pretty straight forward?
There is a write up somewhere on another forum (Bimmerforum?)

It took me a month to find last time.
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:57 PM   #19
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at 400hp to the wheels, doesnt matter if its extra 10lbs of dynamat extreme.
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:06 PM   #20
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at 400hp to the wheels, doesnt matter if its extra 10lbs of dynamat extreme.
That's a lot of horsepower- but- lets be realistic- that's more than 10lbs of Dynamat. I have used, and still use the stuff. Weight adds up quickly is all that I'm saying.
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