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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

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Old 04-05-2013, 09:47 PM   #41
E46er75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djbradle View Post
E46er75- Have you every replaced this?
I have not tried this fix. Although I did mention this myself on another thread, many people shot it down and kept me pointed in the intake,leak and emission areas. If I wasnt so fed up chasing this issue around I would most likely tackle the mounts next. But as of lately, I have grown frustrated and frankly have given up on it.

If you do attempt these fixes please keep the thread updated.

Last edited by E46er75; 04-05-2013 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:08 AM   #42
latitude39
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Originally Posted by djbradle View Post
How about the Center Support Bearing? Has any Xi'er had this as the culprit?
The driveshaft is stationary in the condition you've described--in D or R, idling, not moving. I doubt the CSB could vibrate in that case.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:37 AM   #43
latitude39
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Originally Posted by djbradle View Post
and the transfer case bushing.
^This is what I'm thinking at this point. Once in D or R the transfer case already is taking the power from the tranny. Holding the brake while a T-case bushing is bad could be the very cause when idling.
Have you inspected the Tcase bushing for obvious wear?

If this vibration happens only when in D or R, idling, foot on brake, then you may be able to make it happen on a lift or 4 jack stands, in which case the Tcase bushing could be observed while the vibration is happening.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:50 AM   #44
latitude39
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...
BTW, the temp hit 55 today and guess who's car starting to idle better...
Hmmmm....170k miles on original O2 sensors. And now the vibration is reduced because of warmer weather. Service interval is 100k on these items.

If the transfer case bushing is ruled out then my next *GUESS* would be to replace at least the 2 pre-cat O2 sensors, if not all 4. It's my understanding that the pre-cat sensors affect performance more than post-cat O2 sensors.
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:39 PM   #45
djbradle
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Originally Posted by latitude39 View Post
Hmmmm....170k miles on original O2 sensors. And now the vibration is reduced because of warmer weather. Service interval is 100k on these items.

If the transfer case bushing is ruled out then my next *GUESS* would be to replace at least the 2 pre-cat O2 sensors, if not all 4. It's my understanding that the pre-cat sensors affect performance more than post-cat O2 sensors.
Yup 170k. Second battery since around 40k. Original o2 sensors pre and post. The 02 sensors are pricey so I'll do those as the last possible fix. Just finished upgrading the suspension to almost new condition (man, it feels good again). I'll go check the IAT, replace the lower t-boot( have one on hand), and clean the Icv right now.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:09 PM   #46
SamDoe1
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Originally Posted by djbradle View Post
Yup 170k. Second battery since around 40k. Original o2 sensors pre and post. The 02 sensors are pricey so I'll do those as the last possible fix. Just finished upgrading the suspension to almost new condition (man, it feels good again). I'll go check the IAT, replace the lower t-boot( have one on hand), and clean the Icv right now.
Your fuel trims are so far off right now it's not even funny. Replacing the pre-cat sensors will likely get you an extra 3-5mpg or more at this point, not to mention better performance and throttle response. I would replace those since they are 70k miles past due per the factory maintenance schedule, not the obsessive E46F one.

When you go to "check" your IAT sensor, spray it with MAF cleaner to get all the gunk off of it. Don't touch the sensor itself as it is very delicate. Clean your MAF while you're at it, it'll be out of the car anyway.
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:02 PM   #47
djbradle
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Got to your post late but I cleaned the MAF for the second time in 8 months and got to the ICV to check that. It was pretty frozen so I sprayed it with MAF cleaner a couple times to let the valve spin freely and it did move nice and smooth after a spray or two or seven. I replaced the lower throttle boot too just because I had an extra. It was in good shape. I broke the F connector of course and just replaced that temporarily with a y connector from Autozone. I'll get to the IAT soon enough but in the meantime I'll buy the pre and post O2 sensors to install as well.

All in all there wasn't much difference at all in start up, idle, D, and R. Maybe some placebo involved, maybe not. I'll get to the other stuff next w/e. Thanks for the response SamDoe1
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:56 PM   #48
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^ MAF cleaner isn't going to do jack to clean out your ICV. You need to hit it with brake cleaner to get that bastard back to good working order. The way I did it was hold it so that the inlet is pointing up and just spray until it's roughly 1/3 of the way full of brake cleaner. Then shake it around in there to get it as clean as you can get it and then dump out the cleaner. Do this two more times to get it as much out of it as possible and then spray some WD40 in there to lube it up, again dump out the excess. Then leave it to dry for 8 hours MINIMUM. If you don't let it completely dry, you can backfire your intake and that won't be a cheap fix.

This all reminds me that I need to clean mine up again this spring...
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:50 PM   #49
Kubica
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Only need to buy PRE cat o2 sensors.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:55 AM   #50
djbradle
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Only need to buy PRE cat o2 sensors.
Cool because those are easy.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:58 AM   #51
djbradle
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^ MAF cleaner isn't going to do jack to clean out your ICV. You need to hit it with brake cleaner to get that bastard back to good working order. The way I did it was hold it so that the inlet is pointing up and just spray until it's roughly 1/3 of the way full of brake cleaner. Then shake it around in there to get it as clean as you can get it and then dump out the cleaner. Do this two more times to get it as much out of it as possible and then spray some WD40 in there to lube it up, again dump out the excess. Then leave it to dry for 8 hours MINIMUM. If you don't let it completely dry, you can backfire your intake and that won't be a cheap fix.

This all reminds me that I need to clean mine up again this spring...
Oh well. It had a little sludge still on there but it did move very freely so I'll do the brake cleaner/WD-40 the next go around. When I do the steering column that will be a good time to do it.
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Old 04-09-2013, 01:15 AM   #52
Iggy27
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My xi vibrates when I pull up at a stop light at a complete stop. But if I let the car creep forward just a little the vibrating goes away but will come back when the car is at a full stand still. But only when Iam in D in if I go into N so shaking at a stand still. What I going on??
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:54 AM   #53
jonnie325xi
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My xi vibrates when I pull up at a stop light at a complete stop. But if I let the car creep forward just a little the vibrating goes away but will come back when the car is at a full stand still. But only when Iam in D in if I go into N so shaking at a stand still. What I going on??
Mine does exactly the same thing.
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:26 PM   #54
djbradle
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Maybe something to do with the output shaft, torque converter engaging, front input shaft from the transfer case to the front axle before engaging . . .only seems to affect xi's. If someone has changed their transfer case bushing and can attest to this as a solution out there that would be grand.
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:19 PM   #55
mmaldin
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Originally Posted by E46er75 View Post
I have started threads about this problem and replied to threads regarding this issue. I myself have replaced ever thing possible and mine still is a 3000 lb vibrator in cold weather... wait for the weather to warm up and it will go away, mine does this every winter..

Nobody has successfully fixed this issue and it is a known flaw with the XI's. I'm to the point of just wanted to sell mine then deal it it anymore..

Sorry wish I had an answer for you.
Mine does it in the winter too. Always hoping someone will post a solution.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Bimmer App
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:59 PM   #56
latitude39
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Originally Posted by Iggy27 View Post
My xi vibrates when I pull up at a stop light at a complete stop. But if I let the car creep forward just a little the vibrating goes away but will come back when the car is at a full stand still. But only when Iam in D in if I go into N so shaking at a stand still. What I going on??
Define "vibrate." My 325xi ( automatic, 131k miles) had a "buzzing" sensation especially in the steering wheel when stopped at lights. It felt OK to me but my wife, the previous operator of this car, mentioned it. I replaced the motor mounts, which showed a lot of "flattening." The "buzz" went away and the car now idles perfectly again.

Are you guys talking about a loping idle, with the engine about to stall...or is this more like my steering wheel buzzing sensation? Do the RPMs remain steady?
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:19 PM   #57
Iggy27
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Define "vibrate." My 325xi ( automatic, 131k miles) had a "buzzing" sensation especially in the steering wheel when stopped at lights. It felt OK to me but my wife, the previous operator of this car, mentioned it. I replaced the motor mounts, which showed a lot of "flattening." The "buzz" went away and the car now idles perfectly again.

Are you guys talking about a loping idle, with the engine about to stall...or is this more like my steering wheel buzzing sensation? Do the RPMs remain steady?
My whole car vibrates but it's not like a huge amount it's just enough to annoy me. And when the ac is on it shakes a little bit harder
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:51 PM   #58
latitude39
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My whole car vibrates but it's not like a huge amount it's just enough to annoy me. And when the ac is on it shakes a little bit harder
ICV, MAF, pre-cat O2 sensors, torn boot at throttle body (vacuum leak). Have you done any of these? How many miles?
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:54 PM   #59
Iggy27
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ICV, MAF, pre-cat O2 sensors, torn boot at throttle body (vacuum leak). Have you done any of these? How many miles?
What do you mean by do? I've cleaned my MAF and ICV no vaccine leaks. But I have some little tears at the lower intake boot that go into the ICV and the car has 140 000 miles
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:58 PM   #60
E46er75
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Hmmmm....170k miles on original O2 sensors. And now the vibration is reduced because of warmer weather. Service interval is 100k on these items.

If the transfer case bushing is ruled out then my next *GUESS* would be to replace at least the 2 pre-cat O2 sensors, if not all 4. It's my understanding that the pre-cat sensors affect performance more than post-cat O2 sensors.
FYI, bought my XI with 60k now has 85k and this issues has been present ever since I took ownership..
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