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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

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Old 04-14-2013, 11:05 PM   #61
E46er75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by latitude39 View Post
Define "vibrate." My 325xi ( automatic, 131k miles) had a "buzzing" sensation especially in the steering wheel when stopped at lights. It felt OK to me but my wife, the previous operator of this car, mentioned it. I replaced the motor mounts, which showed a lot of "flattening." The "buzz" went away and the car now idles perfectly again.

Are you guys talking about a loping idle, with the engine about to stall...or is this more like my steering wheel buzzing sensation? Do the RPMs remain steady?
Constant vibration with vibration felt in wheel while in gear and stopped at a light, drive thru, bank and etc.... The rpm dips 200-300 rpm when ac compressor kicks on. The combination of cold weather and while using "auto" climate control seems to be a bad combination..
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:11 PM   #62
latitude39
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Originally Posted by Iggy27 View Post
What do you mean by do? I've cleaned my MAF and ICV no vaccine leaks. But I have some little tears at the lower intake boot that go into the ICV and the car has 140 000 miles
I should be more clear. Clean the ICV and be sure the mechanism isn't gummed up. I used throttle body spray cleaner; MAF -- clean with MAF cleaner according to directions on can; O2 sensors -- replace at 100k, which is the service interval, or shortly thereafter. The ECM needs accurate info; I would replace the boot if it had any cracks to prevent vacuum leaks, which *will* cause rough idling.
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:28 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by latitude39 View Post
I should be more clear. Clean the ICV and be sure the mechanism isn't gummed up. I used throttle body spray cleaner; MAF -- clean with MAF cleaner according to directions on can; O2 sensors -- replace at 100k, which is the service interval, or shortly thereafter. The ECM needs accurate info; I would replace the boot if it had any cracks to prevent vacuum leaks, which *will* cause rough idling.
Yea I cleaned it the ICV out an I am getting a new intake boot this spring and My o2 sensors are giving good signal.( I have a program that can read them)
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:22 AM   #64
latitude39
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Originally Posted by E46er75 View Post
FYI, bought my XI with 60k now has 85k and this issues has been present ever since I took ownership..
My mistake about your mileage. It was OP with 170k.

Quote:
Originally Posted by E46er75 View Post
Constant vibration with vibration felt in wheel while in gear and stopped at a light, drive thru, bank and etc.... The rpm dips 200-300 rpm when ac compressor kicks on. The combination of cold weather and while using "auto" climate control seems to be a bad combination..
Motor mounts made a big difference in my 325 but that was at 131k miles. Your rough idle was there at 60k. I wouldn't suspect motor mounts so early unless the car had been driven hard a lot.
Here's a photo of my passenger-side motor mount next to a new one. If yours shows this kind of compression, you'll get an improvement with new MMs.
http://forum.E46Fanatics.com/album.p...ictureid=24479
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:59 AM   #65
jonnie325xi
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Originally Posted by latitude39 View Post
My mistake about your mileage. It was OP with 170k.



Motor mounts made a big difference in my 325 but that was at 131k miles. Your rough idle was there at 60k. I wouldn't suspect motor mounts so early unless the car had been driven hard a lot.
Here's a photo of my passenger-side motor mount next to a new one. If yours shows this kind of compression, you'll get an improvement with new MMs.
http://forum.E46Fanatics.com/album.p...ictureid=24479
Did you change the mount yourself? if so how difficult was it?
I have 170k on mine and would look into this.
Thanks
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Old 04-15-2013, 07:32 AM   #66
latitude39
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Originally Posted by jonnie325xi View Post
Did you change the mount yourself? if so how difficult was it?
I have 170k on mine and would look into this.
Thanks
Yes, I did the work. Moderate difficulty. Harbor Freight sells an "engine support" you'll need -- around $75. The subframe has to be dropped a bit. There are good DIYs here. I used the Corteco brand, which appeared to be OEM--exact duplicates.
If yours haven't been changed, they are due. It will make a difference in idle smoothness.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...t=motor+mounts

Last edited by latitude39; 04-15-2013 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 04-15-2013, 07:42 AM   #67
blueliner1776
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I bought mine with 100k on it (163k now) and I'm pretty sure this issue has been there the whole time. I am lucky enough to have the full dealer service records from mile 0 and at 70k the previous owner did report to the dealer that there was a vibration at idle. The dealership replaced the idler pulley with no effect. They then just passed it off as 'normal' when they compared it to another car which had the same issue. Maybe the next time something breaks on my car I'll have the motor mounts replaced while it's in the shop.


Quote:
Originally Posted by latitude39 View Post
My mistake about your mileage. It was OP with 170k.



Motor mounts made a big difference in my 325 but that was at 131k miles. Your rough idle was there at 60k. I wouldn't suspect motor mounts so early unless the car had been driven hard a lot.
Here's a photo of my passenger-side motor mount next to a new one. If yours shows this kind of compression, you'll get an improvement with new MMs.
http://forum.E46Fanatics.com/album.p...ictureid=24479
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:07 PM   #68
jonnie325xi
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I Just ordered the two motor mounts, going to DIY them, does not look to bad, I will let you know iif it improves the vibration and if I can add any helpful info to the DIY.
Thanks
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:42 PM   #69
latitude39
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Originally Posted by jonnie325xi View Post
I Just ordered the two motor mounts, going to DIY them, does not look to bad, I will let you know iif it improves the vibration and if I can add any helpful info to the DIY.
Thanks
Good luck with that project. Please report back to let us know how it goes. Work safely.

Here are the links that I found useful:
E46-xi-specific: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...ight=diy+motor In this thread, member Kubica offers good advice about getting the subframe down. Other members also provide good info.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...ight=diy+motor This is RWD-specific.

These are some of the notes I made to myself in my "post-mortem" writeup that I do on my repairs:
Bentley E46, section 310-14…310-18, “Removing and installing front subframe,” turned out to be valuable information. I was having trouble getting the left motor mount in place. Dropping the subframe is a requirement. I placed two flat-topped (ESCO) jack stands under the right side of the subframe and a floor-jack under the left side of the subframe, all while the engine was suspended using the engine support bar from Harbor Freight. The car was raised up on two jack stands already. I exercised extreme caution while working under the engine with the subframe disconnected, thus the pair of jack stands and floor jack.

SAFETY NOTE:
You do understand that the engine is supported by the subframe? You should support the subframe so that it can't fall past an extra pair of jackstands or some other limiting device.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:06 PM   #70
jonnie325xi
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All good information, thank you,
I am thinking of putting the front wheels on ramps, and jacking up the rear and using jack stands. my concern here is when I lower the sub frame the inner control ball joints are connected. Will this be a problem ? or should I put the front on jack stands and remove the front wheels?
Kubica,your a wealth of info, Thank you, I work at Lime Rock race track in CT do you ever get up there ? I get to do a bit of driving there also.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:42 PM   #71
latitude39
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Originally Posted by jonnie325xi View Post
All good information, thank you,
I am thinking of putting the front wheels on ramps, and jacking up the rear and using jack stands. my concern here is when I lower the sub frame the inner control ball joints are connected. Will this be a problem ? or should I put the front on jack stands and remove the front wheels?
...

My notes also talk about that inner ball joint...
I varied from the procedure by disconnecting the left side inner ball joint by separating the ball joint rather than simply removing the pair of bolts attaching it to the subframe[although removing the bolts would probably work]. Following the procedure, I detached the 4 nuts holding the sway bar to the subframe and detached the left control arm bushing. I then removed the 2 main bolts holding the left subframe to the chassis; I loosened, but did not fully unthread, those bolts on the right. At this time the subframe had the freedom of movement needed to open up to install the MM. I controlled the drop with the floor jack.

This is *not* Gospel But it worked for me.

.
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:56 AM   #72
Swest
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Had the same problem with my car... After replacing most everything else we thought was a possibility, the axle fell out while taking it off the rack from having it aligned... Well new axle fixed the vibration... Could have done without the drama though lol... Hit a deer 3 hours later.
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:51 PM   #73
djbradle
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I did my pre cat O2's and got a whopping .5 mpg increase. Vibration still there though apparently slightly less. Monday/Tuesday I did both CA's, Powerflex CAB's, four new used rims (mine were shot), an alignment, and at least my highway driving is much much better.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:17 AM   #74
jonnie325xi
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Well I changed the two motor mounts last night, not a bad DIY, took @ 2 1/2 hours. Did it cure the vibration? well 90% of it is gone, the rest I think is just how it is, but a great improvement.
The pass side mount was pretty bad the driver side was just dry hard rubber, Thanks to all for the input and the info posted for the project.
Do at least the following,
Remove the air box / MAF but you can leave the hoses. Remove the clutch fan and shroud, and also the secondary air pump, I did not remove the cabin filter and housing but if you have time I would suggest that would be a good thing to do also.
From the top you will need long 1/2" drive extentions and a u-joint with a 16mm and you can reach the nuts on both side mounts.
I put the front up on jack stands took off both front wheels, drop the two front plastic pans.
Now I was able to replace both sides with just loosening the four sub frame bolts untill they were about 3 turns still in, put a wood block under the oil pan and jack up the engine to take the weight off the sub frame, before loosing the sub frame bolts.
Then when they are loose jack the engine up a few inches more to clear the mounts, the only bolt that had to come out fully was the rear driver side and I used a pickel fork to wedge that down the inch required to get the driver side mount out and in. When the new mounts are in place, thghten up the sub frame and lower the enging back into place slowly, make sure it is aligned with the motor mount studs, then tighten the lower motor mount bolts.
Then do the top motor mount nuts and put it all back togeather.
I did not have to loosen any other bolts under the car other than the 4 sub frame bolts. the driver side rear sub frame bolt gave me some trouble due to rust but you can get P B Blaster in the top of the bolt mount and that freed it up, but it killed 20 minutes of working it back and forth.
I hope this is of help, I have gotten so much valueable info from here I am glad I have a chance to give a little back.
John

Last edited by jonnie325xi; 04-23-2013 at 08:22 AM.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:26 AM   #75
jonnie325xi
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Motor mount pic Passenger side

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Old 04-23-2013, 11:09 PM   #76
latitude39
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Nice job jonnie. The passenger side MM was showing its age.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:46 AM   #77
ashinc
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I have the same problem. Car vibrates when in D or R with footbrake on. Normally when I stop at traffic lights, I put the car in N and it goes away. A friend of mine told me same thing happened to his E46 and he had the prop-shaft rubbers replaced and that fixed it. I have been meaning to have mine done thinking that was the solution but now reading this thread has left me in doubt as to what the actual problem is. Would be nice if we could get a "clear" solution to this common problem.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:53 AM   #78
jonnie325xi
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ashinc,
I changed the Guibo, the Drive shaft mount and bearing and it made no noticeable difference,
After reading this post and changing the motor mounts, the vibration you describe which was the same I had is all but noticeable,
it made a big improvement.
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:10 PM   #79
djbradle
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Crazy vibration while idling in D or R

I've been thinking I'd like to try the pusher fan and electric fan for the vibration cause.


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

Last edited by djbradle; 05-13-2013 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 05-14-2013, 11:43 AM   #80
ashinc
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Thanks Jonnie325xi, sounds like a plan. What did that job cost you?
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