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Lighting Forum
Angel Eyes, DDEs, lighted rings, Clear Turn Signals, LEDs, Xenon, HID, or Bi-Xenon. If it lights up and you want to discuss it, post here!

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Old 04-14-2013, 09:51 PM   #1
wallyworld
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My Lighting makeover. Help needed!!!

Hi all, I finally decided to do my DIY and do a projector retrofit. Here is the before and after. I realize the finished product may not look like professional quality but Im satisfied with the results especially since I did it myself.



Anyway I would show you the lights lit up but well they don't light up*(with a asterisk)

Neither the projectors nor the AE's. so Im looking for the vast knowledge base of this forum to help me correct this.

First problems/symptoms with the projectors.

Testing them they worked fine, but I only had them on for like 20 secs. Then I bolted in the headlight and cleaned everything up then turned them on and they looked like a old motel sign.........solid....then flickering.....then off.

I thought I installed the HID kit correctly but obviously not. The HID kit I have has a ballast which connects to a capacitor and the capacitor connects to the bulb. The bulb also has two wires (positive and negative) to connect to the old headlight wire in but the car already the right connection for a plug in directly to the ballast. Also the wires dont fit into the old connector (this probably doesnt make sense but I have a picture so hopefully that will help i connected the gray cord to the red cord in the background). I feel this must be the issue but maybe some of you have other ideas.

Now Angel Eyes.

Everything is plug in and play except for the wire spicing for the accessory light wire which I would think is pretty hard to mess up. Sooo it must be the power connection most notably the ground connection. I have more pictures for these connection too. I would like to ground it to the OEM ground but the hole for the wire harness isnt big enough.

I read the lighting troubleshooting guide but maybe I didnt read it careful enough.

Any input would be appreciated.
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:27 AM   #2
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any ideas?
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:43 PM   #3
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why would you need a capacitor? whats the wattage rated for the HIDs.
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:46 PM   #4
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When I had HID flicker & die issues, it was a bad ballast/ignigtor/whatever. Thats what the capacitor is for btw, if the bulb for somereason doesnt get enough juice, the cap will throw some power its way...

tl;dr - I have no clue what your issue is, but it might be the ballast...
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:47 PM   #5
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oh, a load capacitor. my bad. ok, so what is the wattage rated for those HIDs. I'm sure he's experiencing an issue with both his HIDs. very rare for both to be bad
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:49 PM   #6
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anyways, have you tried running it without the capacitors regardless of what the instructions say
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:10 PM   #7
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the HID's are rated for 35w. I havent tried not using the capacitors becasue the ballasts are hardwired with one wire going from the car to the ballast (like in the picture) I am connecting the gray wire to the red wire. The other wire that is hardwired goes through a capacitor and then to the bulb.....at least i think its a capacitor, the only other thing i could imagine it being would be a votlage regulator possibly......here is a picture
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:12 PM   #8
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I see, I see. hardwired. Wow, that's a first. how much you pay for this setup? also I'm assuming you had halogens before this? also, you are 100% sure that either the red wire connecting to the grey wire are connected with correct polarity?
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:27 PM   #9
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plus I don't think the angel eyes are directly connected in any way to the HIDs so the angel eyes shouldn't be a problem at all. are they also not functioning?
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:18 PM   #10
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flickering: question 5 of the guide answers it. i guess you probably that it didn't apply to you because you mis-identified what you had. that small box before the bulb is the ignitor NOT capacitor.

for the angel eyes (question 14 answers it, but i guess i'll edit with a picture to clarify). you wired it totally wrong. why are there 2 wires going to the OEM positive point? the red one is positive, that should stay there. the black one is ground, it should go to the OEM ground which is located where the 19mm nut (same looking nut as the positive) on the other side of the rubber rail, close to the passenger side fender. you basically shorted the wires. so the fuse might have blown as well.
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:24 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by NumbaOneNewb View Post
I see, I see. hardwired. Wow, that's a first. how much you pay for this setup? also I'm assuming you had halogens before this? also, you are 100% sure that either the red wire connecting to the grey wire are connected with correct polarity?
not 100% positive. paid like 50$ for the HID kit. If the polarity was reverse wouldnt they not work at all?
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:27 PM   #12
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flickering: question 5 of the guide answers it. i guess you probably that it didn't apply to you because you mis-identified what you had. that small box before the bulb is the ignitor NOT capacitor.

for the angel eyes (question 14 answers it, but i guess i'll edit with a picture to clarify). you wired it totally wrong. why are there 2 wires going to the OEM positive point? the red one is positive, that should stay there. the black one is ground, it should go to the OEM ground which is located where the 19mm nut (same looking nut as the positive) on the other side of the rubber rail, close to the passenger side fender. you basically shorted the wires. so the fuse might have blown as well.
i see what you are saying but my picture is misleading. The black wire with the red tip is the positve terminal with shealthing? (thats what I want to call it). I definitely put the ground wire to the OEM ground. Does the wire harness or whatever that box is called that is connected to ground need to be connect to ground? Ill read over the troubleshooting guide again. wont be able to look at it till the weekend. Im out of town for work.
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:31 PM   #13
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the black wires with the cover is the ground wire. the positive wire, on the wiring harness is usually all red and not covered at all. the red tip is just what they used for the connector. i'm pretty sure that's how they make it so you identify the difference having installed 1000s of these. unless yours is somehow different, which would be totally weird lol

the relay box does not need to be connected to the OEM ground. the connection point really is just to hold it. that small screw isn't even a ground (which causes a lot of people problems too).
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:53 PM   #14
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the black wires with the cover is the ground wire. the positive wire, on the wiring harness is usually all red and not covered at all. the red tip is just what they used for the connector. i'm pretty sure that's how they make it so you identify the difference having installed 1000s of these. unless yours is somehow different, which would be totally weird lol

the relay box does not need to be connected to the OEM ground. the connection point really is just to hold it. that small screw isn't even a ground (which causes a lot of people problems too).
ok this makes more sense. I didnt put both wires on the positvie terminal though. If the wires are opposite and I reversed the polarity would this blow a fuse or just make them not work?
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:04 PM   #15
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it just wouldn't work. but i would still check the fuse after you put the wiring back correctly. it only takes like a few seconds to do so.
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:08 PM   #16
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it just wouldn't work. but i would still check the fuse after you put the wiring back correctly. it only takes like a few seconds to do so.
ok great i think this is definitely the issue. must have been a brain fart when I was wiring.

now for the projectors........I read over #5 on the troubleshooting guide but have a few questions. I thought you didnt need coding for xenon lights only if you want the bi-xenon feature. I thought my kit came with one, Ill have to check though.

Also I forgot to mention, that when I turn my lights on, the projectors came on and did their whole solid, then flickering, then off ordeal, but thoughout the corners were constantly on. I didnt touch them at all through installation just unscrewed them and pulled them out but didnt unplug them.

anyway thanks for the help thus far
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:16 PM   #17
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no, you need coding for any time you go from halogens to xenon/bixenon. if it came with capacitors, then it would go car wiring (grey connector) --> capacitor/warning cancellors --> ballast connection (red connector in your case).

as for the corners staying on, they are supposed to come on with the headlights or when it's in the parking light position. are you referring to them as being on which the switch is in the off position?
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:30 PM   #18
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they are on when the light is in the full on position not the parking light position. Yea I am missing the warning cancellers. I know retrofit source is probably the best option, but do you have any experience of other good ones? Or does the quality not vary that much?
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:34 PM   #19
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any place I could get them locally too btw?
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:41 PM   #20
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yeah that's normal. to come on in both the parking light position and the full on position.

it doesn't vary that much. they are a hit of miss. some cars work, some don't. if you were trying to do it locally, i would DIY it. or find someone in your area that has the skills to DIY it.
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