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Old 04-19-2013, 10:50 AM   #1
Asliceoflife
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Miesenbach, Germany
Posts: 18
My Ride: 2002 BMW E46 330 Ci
AA Supercharger Oil Leak

Hello all,

I did a search but could not find much.

I have a 2002 E46 330Ci everything seems to be running smooth but there are some issues I would like to try and get a better idea of how to fix.

1. The Blower has a leak coming from the "out" banjo bolt. I have checked and made sure but everything is tight. The "In" banjo bolt I already replaced because a mechanic torqued it too much, so i know they are pretty fragile.

2. The reservoir has a leak also, from the top where you pour the rotrex oil in.

3. Every now and then the initial start up is rough, it's not too bad. The rpm's just dip a little and shoot up around 700 - 1100 then finds idle pretty quick but it almost sounds like it's choking for a second.

I know I need to replace my MAF, unfortunately I placed an order with RockAuto but they had sent me one that was not wide enough. I order this in advanced as well so when i finally opened it up to install it was too late for a return.

I'm getting a vacuum reading in of about "21" and the boost doesn't go over 7 PSI. Is that vacuum reading OK? Could someone post their readings so I and other people have something to go off of?

One more thing, It feels fast but I don't feel the "punch" some people were claiming. Anyone running the same kit in their e46?

Thanks everyone!
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:38 AM   #2
jonny_blaze
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My Ride: E46 M3 AA HKS S/C
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asliceoflife View Post
Hello all,

I did a search but could not find much.

I have a 2002 E46 330Ci everything seems to be running smooth but there are some issues I would like to try and get a better idea of how to fix.

1. The Blower has a leak coming from the "out" banjo bolt. I have checked and made sure but everything is tight. The "In" banjo bolt I already replaced because a mechanic torqued it too much, so i know they are pretty fragile.
Replace the washers everytime you remove them to ensure they are not damaged causing a tolerance difference, thus leading to a leak under pressure. The S/C itself drives the oil.

2. The reservoir has a leak also, from the top where you pour the rotrex oil in.
The cap contains a breather hole, having a bit too much fluid will cause the "leak" much like the sweat/grit on your P/S reservoir.

3. Every now and then the initial start up is rough, it's not too bad. The rpm's just dip a little and shoot up around 700 - 1100 then finds idle pretty quick but it almost sounds like it's choking for a second.
Vacuum is good, most likely no signs of a leak although verify with a smoke tester just for peace of mind although the # of your vacuum seems good. Replace the MAF ASAP, it can complicate this issue as well as potentially cause major fluctuations in fuel trims and power.

I know I need to replace my MAF, unfortunately I placed an order with RockAuto but they had sent me one that was not wide enough. I order this in advanced as well so when i finally opened it up to install it was too late for a return.

I'm getting a vacuum reading in of about "21" and the boost doesn't go over 7 PSI. What level kit are you running? Are you catless? Which exhaust system?

Is that vacuum reading OK? Could someone post their readings so I and other people have something to go off of?

One more thing, It feels fast but I don't feel the "punch" some people were claiming. Anyone running the same kit in their e46?
Once the MAF is replaced, be sure to clear all adaptations and if you have gauges drive the car and monitor them. If you do not have gauges drive the car lightly, do a few hard pulls to redline and strap it on a dyno. Have you dyno'd the car post install?

Thanks everyone!
My input is in bold.

Last edited by jonny_blaze; 05-01-2013 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 05-03-2013, 09:11 AM   #3
Asliceoflife
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Location: Miesenbach, Germany
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My Ride: 2002 BMW E46 330 Ci
Kit level is stage 2. I figured the leak out. didn't even see one of the washers was sticking to the banjo bolt. So the outlet had 3 total on it, I replaced them torqued them to 11 Lbs and no leak, finally. I just ordered some Rotrex oil (only $90 for the new 150 blend which supersedes the 100) with Jackson racing so it should be here on Monday.

Here is the Exhaust, not catless.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330...nce/ES2538859/

Currently my SES is on, all simple to fix but I have to wait for the parts, to include the new MAF. Unfortunately i'll be gone from the 7th of May to September so I have the car sitting in the garage for now. Thanks for your help and input though man.

One more thing though, I got the brace sitting properly now no more squeal except for cold mornings for about a minute. There is a load whistle at 3500 rpm and after I noticed that my "S" pipe was touching the WP so as it was spinning it was grinding it so i created a brace to keep the "S" pipe towards the driver side of the car but that sound is still there. Could it be belt slipping? I am running the standard 2257 MM 6Rib belt on it a brand new one.
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Old 05-03-2013, 09:14 AM   #4
Asliceoflife
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No dyno yet, I wanted to get everything as perfect as possible before I took it to a dyno
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Old 05-03-2013, 09:44 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asliceoflife View Post
Kit level is stage 2. I figured the leak out. didn't even see one of the washers was sticking to the banjo bolt. So the outlet had 3 total on it, I replaced them torqued them to 11 Lbs and no leak, finally. I just ordered some Rotrex oil (only $90 for the new 150 blend which supersedes the 100) with Jackson racing so it should be here on Monday.

Here is the Exhaust, not catless.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330...nce/ES2538859/

Currently my SES is on, all simple to fix but I have to wait for the parts, to include the new MAF. Unfortunately i'll be gone from the 7th of May to September so I have the car sitting in the garage for now. Thanks for your help and input though man.

One more thing though, I got the brace sitting properly now no more squeal except for cold mornings for about a minute. There is a load whistle at 3500 rpm and after I noticed that my "S" pipe was touching the WP so as it was spinning it was grinding it so i created a brace to keep the "S" pipe towards the driver side of the car but that sound is still there. Could it be belt slipping? I am running the standard 2257 MM 6Rib belt on it a brand new one.
Glad to hear you found the leak from the Banjo Bolt and also have the Rotrex Traction Fluid on order. Hopefully with the new MAF will have the current issues resolved. As for the squeals you would have to play with the turn buckle with the belt issue. If you have any questions feel free to contact us directly and we will be more than glad to assist you.
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:23 PM   #6
jonny_blaze
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asliceoflife View Post
Kit level is stage 2. I figured the leak out. didn't even see one of the washers was sticking to the banjo bolt. So the outlet had 3 total on it, I replaced them torqued them to 11 Lbs and no leak, finally. I just ordered some Rotrex oil (only $90 for the new 150 blend which supersedes the 100) with Jackson racing so it should be here on Monday.

Here is the Exhaust, not catless.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330...nce/ES2538859/

Currently my SES is on, all simple to fix but I have to wait for the parts, to include the new MAF. Unfortunately i'll be gone from the 7th of May to September so I have the car sitting in the garage for now. Thanks for your help and input though man.

One more thing though, I got the brace sitting properly now no more squeal except for cold mornings for about a minute. There is a load whistle at 3500 rpm and after I noticed that my "S" pipe was touching the WP so as it was spinning it was grinding it so i created a brace to keep the "S" pipe towards the driver side of the car but that sound is still there. Could it be belt slipping? I am running the standard 2257 MM 6Rib belt on it a brand new one.
Was there any other markings on the belt? Check all pulleys for any markings. See if you can load a video of the noise and I can help you out.

Since your factory cats are in, I would highly recommend to get them out. They are extremely restrictive and I can guarantee you that your hurting your performance. Remember, going to supercharged setup is going to create a lot of intake pressure (boost pressure) - therefore you want your exhaust flowing in a good relation to your intake flow, that way you do not slow down the velocity of air (causing increased back pressure, or further more back pressure over stock when S/C).

Glad to hear your knocking things off the list. Scan that SES and get it fixed! MAF/O2 codes can also mean vacuum leaks (in turn, boost leaks = no punch). Out of curiosity, what were the SES codes?

Last edited by jonny_blaze; 05-03-2013 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:19 PM   #7
eaks
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I dont want to thread jack but I also have an insane squeal from my supercharger.. Can someone give me a step by step of how to adjust the brace (is this the mounting plate?)? I assumed that it was normal for teh SC to be screaming and it really bothered me.. would be amazing if I could get it quite
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:43 PM   #8
jonny_blaze
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Originally Posted by eaks View Post
I dont want to thread jack but I also have an insane squeal from my supercharger.. Can someone give me a step by step of how to adjust the brace (is this the mounting plate?)? I assumed that it was normal for teh SC to be screaming and it really bothered me.. would be amazing if I could get it quite
Check the condition of your belt first! If all is good:

Loosen the nuts on the bracket, so you can use the main rod to thread more/less on the threaded shaft. Start the car and run it at idle, adjusting the main rod more/less until the noise goes away (Tip: typically you want to push the blower more forward making the belt more straight). Once done, shut off the car and tighten the nuts to lose the main rod in place. Re-start to try and replicate the symptom...if a few tries shows none, then your done!

If the noise doesn't go away you may have a pulley, or tensioner issue rooting the symptom. If the belt is being changed, check play in all pulleys and tensioners and replace as necessary or better yet preventive

Last edited by jonny_blaze; 05-06-2013 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:02 PM   #9
eaks
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Sorry which bolts are you referring to? The belt is new with about 4000kms on it so belt is good condition.. Can you show me pics of which bolts you want me to loosen to get her to stop screaming?

Thanks a lot..

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Old 05-07-2013, 10:26 PM   #10
jonny_blaze
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eaks View Post
Sorry which bolts are you referring to? The belt is new with about 4000kms on it so belt is good condition.. Can you show me pics of which bolts you want me to loosen to get her to stop screaming?

Thanks a lot..

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http://www.docstoc.com/docs/document...oc_id=22336449

go to page 10, do you have that brace?
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:30 PM   #11
eaks
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Originally Posted by jonny_blaze View Post
http://www.docstoc.com/docs/document...oc_id=22336449

go to page 10, do you have that brace?
I am not sure about those.. Can you typically access these with the blower installed? I dont have much room in that area (it is a pain in the ass for me to even tighten the clamps on the couplers to the intake).. Is this the brace that goes on the oil filter housing bolt? (I had my OFHG done and the mechanic said it was just hanging so he took it off because he couldn't get proper torque on that bolt with the arm attached to the bracket)..

Last edited by eaks; 05-07-2013 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:11 PM   #12
jonny_blaze
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Originally Posted by eaks View Post
I am not sure about those.. Can you typically access these with the blower installed? I dont have much room in that area (it is a pain in the ass for me to even tighten the clamps on the couplers to the intake).. Is this the brace that goes on the oil filter housing bolt? (I had my OFHG done and the mechanic said it was just hanging so he took it off because he couldn't get proper torque on that bolt with the arm attached to the bracket)..
You need that to support the blower. Call him up and see if he has it, if not call Viral up and get one on the way. You must have that installed and adjusted properly to avoid the noise. You can access it from the front, you just need good wrenches.

As far as the clamps, you dont need to remove anything. Loosen the clamps all the way and slip out the clamp, do the reverse after fitting the bracket onto the coupling (closest to the blower side). Do not over tighten and strip the clamp. The torque spec will be in the manual (in the link I posted above).

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