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///M3 Forum
The BMW E46 ///M3 is the M version E46 and puts out an amazing 333 HP and 262 lb-ft of torque at stock specs! There are an amazing amount of modifications for both the coupe and convertible models so read up and get started modifying your cars today!

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Old 04-26-2013, 02:58 PM   #1
raichean
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Worth it to take the camber out?

Assuming I am using the right word.. (still learning)

Replaced the tires on my new to me M3, and the inners on the rears were all torn to hell while the outers will still surprisingly healthy. As expected, I know.

Is it worth it to take that camber out and get more tire wear? What do I lose? As it is a vert, track days will be about zero regardless if I wanted to or not, so that leaves a daily driver I get to drive enthusiastically.

Worth it to take it out to even out tire wear? Seen a few folks mention they have done that.

Thanks yall!
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:10 PM   #2
03BIMMERM3
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Might be helpful to know what suspension setup is on the car..coilovers? If in your rear, caster and toe need to be adjusted, alignment..no benefits in your situation

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Last edited by 03BIMMERM3; 04-26-2013 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:13 PM   #3
raichean
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Stock OEM to the best of my knowledge. Had 42k miles on it, appears to be completely stock and moderately well maintained..
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:15 PM   #4
mooninite
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No, you want to keep stock camber if you have stock suspension. Camber does little to tire wear.

Look at toe. If an alignment comes back fine, then look at your bushings. Both FCAB and RTAB.

As far as tracking, you technically can do it (with reinforcement) but a vert M3 is no where near as fun as a coupe M3 on the track due to the weight differences.
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:16 PM   #5
03BIMMERM3
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Camber is in the front btw, caster in rear..did you have any wear on the front tires, get an alignment

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Old 04-26-2013, 03:17 PM   #6
raichean
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Ah ok.. thanks for all of the info guys! So in this case, caster, the inners on both rears were torn to hell but the fronts looked equally worn. The tires were old though and well worn, so I am assuming it is natural wear and tear.
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:18 PM   #7
PITT M3 RR
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Originally Posted by 03BIMMERM3 View Post
Camber is in the front btw, caster in rear..did you have any wear on the front tires, get an alignment

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That isnt true...camber adjustments are for front and rear.

Caster is a measurment of moving or angling the front wheel entierly forward or backwards a small amount in the simplest of words. Go read up on it.

The wear you are experiencing is on the inner part of your tires because you have a certaiin degree of negative camber, however, if you were to move camber to zero right now, you would NOT save the inner side of yourtires you would kill the rest of the tire just as fast. You need to have an alignment shop place it on a machine and test your tolerance and play to see where your system needs attention. It could simply just be out of toe spec.
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:35 PM   #8
wilsel
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If you have stock suspension, you don't need an alignment. If you're out of spec its because something is worn, or bent. Periodic alignments are the biggest scam going. I'd start by checking the RTAB's.
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:18 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by wilsel View Post
If you have stock suspension, you don't need an alignment. If you're out of spec its because something is worn, or bent. Periodic alignments are the biggest scam going. I'd start by checking the RTAB's.
Right but...the alignment or attempt will show the problem...

You cant eye up those measurements or movements.
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:39 PM   #10
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camber is how much your wheel tilts in. Caster affects camber when you turn the wheel. the more caster you have, the more camber is induced by turning the wheel. so you can keep very little negative camber in a straight line, but when turning, when the force on the wheel would otherwise induce neutral or positive camber, the suspension is able to keep the tire straight. toe out means the front of the tire is pointing away from the car centerline, toe in means it's pointing into the centerline. toe out will give a better turn in response, but you will lose some straight line high speed stability. toe in does the opposite, it will give you better straight line stability but you will have a more sluggish turn in. but you're talking about the difference between adjusting suspension for handling versus adjusting it for looks.
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:51 PM   #11
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Just go and get your alignment checked. While it's being checked, get under there with the mechanic, if the shop allows it and see what you have. Then go from there.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:16 PM   #12
illestminimike
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Worth it to take the camber out?

It's his RTAB's. Change them, get alignment
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:13 AM   #13
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^ seriously. its that easy. change RTAB set toe to spec and move on
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by illestminimike View Post
It's his RTAB's. Change them, get alignment
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgilardi86 View Post
^ seriously. its that easy. change RTAB set toe to spec and move on
Finnaly some correct information...

this thead...

OP: Get new RTAB's and get an alignment.
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