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Old 01-02-2014, 06:00 PM   #121
Raymond42262
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On basement insulation, you may want to install rigid insulation down before pouring basement floor. Put 6 mil plastic, then the insulation then concrete floor. Reduces moisture rise through concrete plus insulated floor.

Nice floor plan. Looks like you will have a nice home.

I have always heard suggestions about insulating underneath the concrete, but what is the likelihood that the insulation will fail over time ?

Then you will have a cracked and decaying underlayment leading to cracked and failing concrete floors. At least that is how I visualize it.

I know they say that the insulating underlayment will last ' a lifetime' but you got a lot to lose if it fails.....


Wouldn't 6 mil plastic be good enough ?
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Old 01-02-2014, 07:18 PM   #122
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I used this procedure on a house I had built in 1986. I used 2" of extruded polystyene over stone leveling material and then covered the polystyrene with 6 mil plastic. The plastic was for moisture control. I used the same process for the walls that were below grade.

As of 2008 when I sold it, the basement floor was fine.
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Old 01-02-2014, 08:01 PM   #123
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Glight House Build Thread

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home gym
Haha



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Yea, vapor barrier for sure

Ended up doing this. Foam on outside of block after tarring. Inside, I drylocked, then glued 2" foam boards to the concrete block, taped all seams, studded w/ PT and drywalled

I was so worried and concerned about "trapping" moisture in the fiberglass insulation and plastic VB making mold, so I did the Foam and skipped the plastic

Walls are done, but now WTF do I do with the floor??????????? concrete slab
I've heard soooooo many conflicting arguments for finishing a basement. Living in Michigan, I didn't do a VP or foam for fear of moisture. I simply threw the wall up 1 inch off from the poured concrete to allow a draft and the concrete to breathe. Gotta stop a leak from exterior.


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Old 01-03-2014, 04:22 PM   #124
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Haha





I've heard soooooo many conflicting arguments for finishing a basement. Living in Michigan, I didn't do a VP or foam for fear of moisture. I simply threw the wall up 1 inch off from the poured concrete to allow a draft and the concrete to breathe. Gotta stop a leak from exterior.


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You don't want the wall to breathe. Warm air (Heater in winter) hits the cold stone or cold air (AC in summer) hits the warm stone and you get....water "condensation" trapped between the walls and insulation and then mold

Theres water liquid....and then there is water moisture and then there is water vapor. A fight on all fronts!!!
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I agree with JonJon.

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Old 01-20-2014, 12:36 PM   #125
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Got our backfill done after waiting 2 weeks for the walls to cure and getting the back bracing done. They are starting the garage and front porch footings and piers tomorrow, laying steel on Friday and starting to frame early next week.... finally starting to feel real.

Anyone out there had a second water meter installed for sprinklers and hoses, etc?

Cost is around $400 for the meter and the permit to do it. With a full inground sprinkler system I'm thinking it might be worth it.
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:39 PM   #126
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^ If the pressure to your lot is good enough then I wouldn't worry about it but for that low of a cost I'd do it anyway. Is it $400 for meter and permit and then more for labor or is that all in?

FWIW, my house doesn't have a second meter and I just run the sprinklers at a time I know no one will be showering or doing any other water intensive activity. The advantage I have is that it's just my wife and I so our schedules are fairly predictable.

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Old 01-20-2014, 12:44 PM   #127
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^ If the pressure to your lot is good enough then I wouldn't worry about it but for that low of a cost I'd do it anyway. Is it $400 for meter and permit and then more for labor or is that all in?

FWIW, my house doesn't have a second meter and I just run the sprinklers at a time I know no one will be showering or doing any other water intensive activity. The advantage I have is that it's just my wife and I so our schedules are fairly predictable.
The pressure is great. 1" line. The second meter isn't for a second water line, its just so that you don't get billed sewer charges for the water that isn't going into the sewer like sprinklers, hoses, etc.
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:52 PM   #128
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The pressure is great. 1" line. The second meter isn't for a second water line, its just so that you don't get billed sewer charges for the water that isn't going into the sewer like sprinklers, hoses, etc.
Ah ok. My parents got a second line put in due to pressure when running the sprinklers. That's an awesome idea though, I'd do that without even thinking twice then.
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:56 PM   #129
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Got our backfill done after waiting 2 weeks for the walls to cure and getting the back bracing done. They are starting the garage and front porch footings and piers tomorrow, laying steel on Friday and starting to frame early next week.... finally starting to feel real.

Anyone out there had a second water meter installed for sprinklers and hoses, etc?

Cost is around $400 for the meter and the permit to do it. With a full inground sprinkler system I'm thinking it might be worth it.
I have a second meter dedicated to my sprinkler system, it saves HUGE money and I would recommend it.

This past summer I even repiped my exterior hose line to the meter to save money. To prevent sump pump backups, I have a backup sump pump which runs on city water pressure and the second meter during a power outage.


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Old 01-20-2014, 01:06 PM   #130
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why not plant native species and forget watering? and watering in MI seems unnecessary, especially with the tree canopy surrounding the house.
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Old 01-20-2014, 01:13 PM   #131
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why not plant native species and forget watering? and watering in MI seems unnecessary, especially with the tree canopy surrounding the house.
My maim concern for watering is for the lawn. With two young kids a nice full green lawn is really important to me. I probably won't run the zones that water shrub beds much at all.

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Old 01-20-2014, 02:12 PM   #132
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Don't mean to hijack but what does it take to retrofit a second meter to an existing home? Not paying the stupid sewer fee on watering my grass sounds like an awesome idea.
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Old 01-20-2014, 02:18 PM   #133
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Don't mean to hijack but what does it take to retrofit a second meter to an existing home? Not paying the stupid sewer fee on watering my grass sounds like an awesome idea.
I dont think it would be much more than on a new house. Get the city out to turn off the water, have plumber buy and install second meter, turn water back on, city wires it up. I would guess price of the meter + permits + $200 in labor
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Old 02-04-2014, 11:10 AM   #134
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They delivered the floor system last week and got the floor deck on.
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Old 02-04-2014, 11:11 AM   #135
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Today all the lumber was delivered and they started framing
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Old 02-04-2014, 11:11 AM   #136
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They delivered the floor system last week and got the floor deck on.
Man that's gotta be rough working outside.
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Old 02-04-2014, 11:28 AM   #137
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Man that's gotta be rough working outside.
I looks miserable. It has been really cold but sunny with no wind the days they have been working, so at least the wind chill isnt horrible.
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Old 02-04-2014, 12:51 PM   #138
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man, it will start really moving now with framing in motion! make sure they spray foam the rim joist.
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Old 02-04-2014, 12:56 PM   #139
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man, it will start really moving now with framing in motion! make sure they spray foam the rim joist.
What does this mean?
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Old 02-04-2014, 01:04 PM   #140
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What does this mean?
usually they just shove a bunch of cheap fiberglass insulation in between the floor joists at the rim joist like this



this leave good places for critters to live and also is poorly insulated and doesn't seal air leaks. this is one of the biggest culprits for air infiltration in a house.

instead foam it like this. a little more expensive, but worth it in terms of saving energy and having a more comfortable home.

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