Alright guys! Here is my DIY for the tablet amp and speaker install :thumbsup: I'll try to be as detailed as I can, I did have to quit taking pics once i got to the rear because it was getting late and I still had a 2hr drive home.. So here we go, I'll list supplies and tools first then get to a step by step with pics!
_____________________________
Tools Needed
- T20 torx bit w/ ratchet or screwdriver
- Phillips screwdriver *various sizes*
- Flat head screwdriver
- Dremel or some sort of cutter
- Plastic trim removal tools
- 8mm, 10mm, 13mm ratchet wrenches or shallow sockets
- soldering iron
- flux & Rosin core solder
- wire strippers/cutters
- shrink wrap
- Razor blades
- PATIENCE!
Parts needed
- 6.5" Alpine SPS-610c front components
- 6.5" Alpine SPS-610 coax's rear deck
- multi channel amp of your choice, I am using a kicker 700w5.1ch amp
- 50' roll of speaker wire - I used RCA, you can use whatever you want.
- x' of 4g power cable - Stinger MPH or PRO are my recommendations, measure for your application based on where you want to mount the amp.
- 5' 16g wire (blue preferably) - remote wire extension.
- 2 4g ring terminals
- Galaxy tab 2 or Nexus 7 tablet
- Mediabridge 25' aux to rca cable
- Dual din bezel
- Adhesive
Okay so that should be everything you need for this install. :thumbsup:
______________________________________________________________________
Okay so let's get started here, set aside an entire day, it took me 11 hours and that's with my wifes and my dads help on parts lol.
So bring your car into the garage and get your tools and parts setup and get yourself a drink and prepare for one hellava adventure.:loco:
Step 1:
Disassembling the dash trim so you can get access to the 2 screws to remove the radio or in my case navigation.
Use your plastic trim removal tools! Be very careful and start from the passenger side near the door and work your way to the center piece as they share a pin right by the radio.
Once you have all the trim removed you need to remove the 2 brass colored screws and the 2 black screws that hold your center vent down. Once you have them removed and put in a safe spot pull your center vents out. This was hard, and I thought I was going to break it, but just pull very evenly and it will pop out. Don't yank because the center control has a cord attached to it.
Pic of the trim and vent removed.
Step 2:
Now we're going to remove the door panels so we have access to the speakers. Be careful again because there is a lot of wires and **** attached inside here.
so using the same trim tool slide it between the door frame and the panel and slowly pry out until you hear the clips release, go around the entire door and make sure you have them all released. Then take your t20 torx bit and remove the 3 screws in the armrest, use the trim tool and remove the "airbag" plug and remove the torx screw behind there. There is one more screw hidden in your door pull trim, use a razor blade or xacto knife and pop the black circular plug out to access the screw.
The white clip that attaches to your door handle just simply lifts up out of it's spot, disconnect the speaker from the door wiring and then carefully pry out and up to release the top edge from the little push clips that are part of the door frame.
Do this for both sides, but don't forget about the side mirror controls on the driver side, you will have to push from underneath the switch from the back of the door to release it from its hole. Then disconnect the wiring from it and set the switch aside.
here's the back of the door panel in all its glory. And you can now see our target's! the upper tweeter and lower midbass speaker.
Step 3:
Time to remove your door speakers! There are 3 phillips head screws that are holding the lower speaker in and 3 torx screws that hold the tweeter housing in. remove all of them, but when you get the speakers and tweeters out, place the screws back in there spots so you don't mix them up.
The foam backing just slides right off. :thumbsup:
Okay now we need to get the mounting ring separated from the HK speakers because if you use the speakers I used, or the Type R equivalents you can use factory mount rings! WOOO :clap:
There are 4 little metal tabs that are bent and epoxied around the ring we need. Using a flat head screwdriver pry them up then finish moving them with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Next slide your flat head screwdriver in between the ring and the speaker itself and carefully work your way around separating the ring from the speaker, there is a very tough epoxy that seals the ring to the speaker so take your time and dont break them!
So do that for both sides and get your speakers and tweeters dismounted from their housings. The tweeters are held in by 2 small phillips head screws, disconnect the wire plug and set your OEM speakers aside and set the housing and ring aside for use soon.
Step 4:
Next up we will be removing the door boot and the rocker trim inside the car. Using a smaller trim tool, unset the rubber boot from the door and pull it up exposing the wiring harness inside.
Now carefully lift up the sound deadening foam from the door, it's attached with some kind of rubbery glue and will reattach when you're all done. Take your 50' spool of wiring and feed it through the door following the path of the factory wrapped cloth harness, this is so you don't pinch it in the window on accident. :thumbsup: now feed it through the boot opening in the side and pull a length of wiring all the way back to the end of your trunk.
my wife wrangling the wiring for me while I was doing other parts. :thumbsup:
Okay now do you see the small piece of "rubber" sound deadening that is hanging down right by the bottom of the dash? You are going to trim this even with the dash and throw it away as it's in our way for this process. Also the black trim clip you see in the carpet, throw that away too since we are going to be using the hole that it was originally mounted to in order to pull our speaker wiring through!
Remember that little hole that the black plug went to that was uncovered once you cut that deadening off? Take a piece of wire and fold and end of it like a hook and shove it through this hole and through the door opening where you removed the wiring harness clip from, it's a straight shot basically.
Hook your wiring around the hook of wire and pull it through the door and the little hole, this will take some force since the wiring is thick with the wire in it, but it'll go and it wont hurt the cable. Pull the entire length through the hole and route it to the back of your car.
You will need to arrange the speaker cable so it passes through without getting pinched, I found that it ran easiest on the bottom of the opening in the door jam.
Next you'll see something like this..
We're going to be running that length of wire through this path under the carpet and up to the back of the car. Set your wad of speaker wire somewhere out of the way right now we're not to that part yet.
Step 5:
Now we are going to be taking our OEM mounting ring and our new component speakers and doing a little bit of constructive destruction.
Set your new speaker inside the OEM ring and lift the ring up so it sits up and align it as if you were going to slip it onto the speaker. Now take a pencil or something to mark with and mark on the edges of the 3 tabs a slot you will be cutting out of the new speaker ring.
sorry for the blurry pic, look close you'll see the silver marks we are going to trim off to allow this ring to set up just like factory!
Alright, using a dremel or something like that to trim away at the ring, get to trimming! you'll end up with this.
Now using some sort of adhesive epoxy we are going to apply a "thick" layer of it to the bottom of the OEM ring where the old glue was, we have to seal it to the speaker so it isn't bouncing around and all that good stuff.
Now attach your ring to your speaker and set it aside to dry for a while:thumbsup: probably time to take a quick smoke break and grab a drink or something because I bet you're fuking tired at this point lol.
Repeat this process for both front speakers obviously and then we'll move to mounting the new tweeters in the OEM bracket and get some of the wiring arranged.
Step 6:
So remember that tweeter housing we set aside, go grab it along with your new tweeter and the screw on backing it came with.
Drop your new tweeter in the housing, make sure it's facing the right way! I put mine in backwards at first lol.. and screw the back ring on and tighten it down, dont' worry it will stay seated! I wasn't sure at first but it works just fine.
alright so once you have both sides done go ahead and get them screwed back into the door panels. You didn't loose the OEM screws right! They are the bronze torx head ones in case you didn't put them back in their home.
dont worry about that little 1" thing it's useless now lol.
Now grab your crossovers and plug one side into the tweeters and take the rest of the unit and using gorilla glue duct tape, tape that sucker up in there nice and cleanly.
Next up we'll mount our newly assembled mids back to the door and then finish up the wiring.
Step 7:
Take your new component speakers and mount them just like the old OEM ones were. :thumbsup: Oh make sure you remove the little black ring that is left in the speaker opening it wont fit with that in there.:ben:
Now connect your crossover wires to the speaker, clip your line of speaker wire, and attach the proper sized female spade connectors so you can secure it to your speaker.
Now do this for both sides and use some gorilla glue duct tape tape all your speaker crossover wires to the inside of the panel nice and neat like and we're now ready to put the door panels back on!
Step 8:
Alright, now we have our wiring ran to the proper length, we've got our mids and tweeters mounted and wired up and we are ready to reassemble the door cards now!
Installation is the reverse of removal, take it slow and mount all of your wires back up, and your mirror switch, then carefully place the door cards back on and align the pins with the holes, once you get 1 or 2 of them going just work your way around making sure each clip is properly lined up and just give it a good smack with your hand and you'll hear everything reset. :thumbsup:
We don't need pics of this right? Good because I didn't take any lol.
Step 9:
Damn, well that was fun, at this point you'll probably want to take a quick break, very tedious work so far, and we're only 1/4 the way done lol.
Get some rest and now we're going to remove the rear seats and center console in order to get ready to run our wiring nice and tucked away.
Removing the rear bench is easy, release the seat backs and grip the front of the seats and lift sharply up and you will feel them release, then they just slide out!
YUCK! That's nasty as ****, grab your shop vac and give your car a good cleaning back there. Now this is an optional step, but I personally ripped that black rubber mat out of the car and threw it away, useless weight. CSL doesn't have it, that means we dont need it haha! It was probably 3-5lbs of mat that I threw out.
and vacuum again lol. More GARBAGE!!!
pile of crap I threw out, useless weight! DO NOT WANT!
Step 10:
Cool now we can route our wires under the back seat along the sides of the cars with all the other OEM wiring, then run it up into the trunk. :thumbsup:
repeat this for both sides of the car and now your fronts and wiring are complete!
Good time to vacuum out the trunk well too!
After you have those wires routed we are going to move on to the head unit part of the job.
_____________________________
Tools Needed
- T20 torx bit w/ ratchet or screwdriver
- Phillips screwdriver *various sizes*
- Flat head screwdriver
- Dremel or some sort of cutter
- Plastic trim removal tools
- 8mm, 10mm, 13mm ratchet wrenches or shallow sockets
- soldering iron
- flux & Rosin core solder
- wire strippers/cutters
- shrink wrap
- Razor blades
- PATIENCE!
Parts needed
- 6.5" Alpine SPS-610c front components
- 6.5" Alpine SPS-610 coax's rear deck
- multi channel amp of your choice, I am using a kicker 700w5.1ch amp
- 50' roll of speaker wire - I used RCA, you can use whatever you want.
- x' of 4g power cable - Stinger MPH or PRO are my recommendations, measure for your application based on where you want to mount the amp.
- 5' 16g wire (blue preferably) - remote wire extension.
- 2 4g ring terminals
- Galaxy tab 2 or Nexus 7 tablet
- Mediabridge 25' aux to rca cable
- Dual din bezel
- Adhesive
Okay so that should be everything you need for this install. :thumbsup:
______________________________________________________________________
Okay so let's get started here, set aside an entire day, it took me 11 hours and that's with my wifes and my dads help on parts lol.
So bring your car into the garage and get your tools and parts setup and get yourself a drink and prepare for one hellava adventure.:loco:
Step 1:
Disassembling the dash trim so you can get access to the 2 screws to remove the radio or in my case navigation.
Use your plastic trim removal tools! Be very careful and start from the passenger side near the door and work your way to the center piece as they share a pin right by the radio.
Once you have all the trim removed you need to remove the 2 brass colored screws and the 2 black screws that hold your center vent down. Once you have them removed and put in a safe spot pull your center vents out. This was hard, and I thought I was going to break it, but just pull very evenly and it will pop out. Don't yank because the center control has a cord attached to it.
Pic of the trim and vent removed.
Step 2:
Now we're going to remove the door panels so we have access to the speakers. Be careful again because there is a lot of wires and **** attached inside here.
so using the same trim tool slide it between the door frame and the panel and slowly pry out until you hear the clips release, go around the entire door and make sure you have them all released. Then take your t20 torx bit and remove the 3 screws in the armrest, use the trim tool and remove the "airbag" plug and remove the torx screw behind there. There is one more screw hidden in your door pull trim, use a razor blade or xacto knife and pop the black circular plug out to access the screw.
The white clip that attaches to your door handle just simply lifts up out of it's spot, disconnect the speaker from the door wiring and then carefully pry out and up to release the top edge from the little push clips that are part of the door frame.
Do this for both sides, but don't forget about the side mirror controls on the driver side, you will have to push from underneath the switch from the back of the door to release it from its hole. Then disconnect the wiring from it and set the switch aside.
here's the back of the door panel in all its glory. And you can now see our target's! the upper tweeter and lower midbass speaker.
Step 3:
Time to remove your door speakers! There are 3 phillips head screws that are holding the lower speaker in and 3 torx screws that hold the tweeter housing in. remove all of them, but when you get the speakers and tweeters out, place the screws back in there spots so you don't mix them up.
The foam backing just slides right off. :thumbsup:
Okay now we need to get the mounting ring separated from the HK speakers because if you use the speakers I used, or the Type R equivalents you can use factory mount rings! WOOO :clap:
There are 4 little metal tabs that are bent and epoxied around the ring we need. Using a flat head screwdriver pry them up then finish moving them with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Next slide your flat head screwdriver in between the ring and the speaker itself and carefully work your way around separating the ring from the speaker, there is a very tough epoxy that seals the ring to the speaker so take your time and dont break them!
So do that for both sides and get your speakers and tweeters dismounted from their housings. The tweeters are held in by 2 small phillips head screws, disconnect the wire plug and set your OEM speakers aside and set the housing and ring aside for use soon.
Step 4:
Next up we will be removing the door boot and the rocker trim inside the car. Using a smaller trim tool, unset the rubber boot from the door and pull it up exposing the wiring harness inside.
Now carefully lift up the sound deadening foam from the door, it's attached with some kind of rubbery glue and will reattach when you're all done. Take your 50' spool of wiring and feed it through the door following the path of the factory wrapped cloth harness, this is so you don't pinch it in the window on accident. :thumbsup: now feed it through the boot opening in the side and pull a length of wiring all the way back to the end of your trunk.
my wife wrangling the wiring for me while I was doing other parts. :thumbsup:
Okay now do you see the small piece of "rubber" sound deadening that is hanging down right by the bottom of the dash? You are going to trim this even with the dash and throw it away as it's in our way for this process. Also the black trim clip you see in the carpet, throw that away too since we are going to be using the hole that it was originally mounted to in order to pull our speaker wiring through!
Remember that little hole that the black plug went to that was uncovered once you cut that deadening off? Take a piece of wire and fold and end of it like a hook and shove it through this hole and through the door opening where you removed the wiring harness clip from, it's a straight shot basically.
Hook your wiring around the hook of wire and pull it through the door and the little hole, this will take some force since the wiring is thick with the wire in it, but it'll go and it wont hurt the cable. Pull the entire length through the hole and route it to the back of your car.
You will need to arrange the speaker cable so it passes through without getting pinched, I found that it ran easiest on the bottom of the opening in the door jam.
Next you'll see something like this..
We're going to be running that length of wire through this path under the carpet and up to the back of the car. Set your wad of speaker wire somewhere out of the way right now we're not to that part yet.
Step 5:
Now we are going to be taking our OEM mounting ring and our new component speakers and doing a little bit of constructive destruction.
Set your new speaker inside the OEM ring and lift the ring up so it sits up and align it as if you were going to slip it onto the speaker. Now take a pencil or something to mark with and mark on the edges of the 3 tabs a slot you will be cutting out of the new speaker ring.
sorry for the blurry pic, look close you'll see the silver marks we are going to trim off to allow this ring to set up just like factory!
Alright, using a dremel or something like that to trim away at the ring, get to trimming! you'll end up with this.
Now using some sort of adhesive epoxy we are going to apply a "thick" layer of it to the bottom of the OEM ring where the old glue was, we have to seal it to the speaker so it isn't bouncing around and all that good stuff.
Now attach your ring to your speaker and set it aside to dry for a while:thumbsup: probably time to take a quick smoke break and grab a drink or something because I bet you're fuking tired at this point lol.
Repeat this process for both front speakers obviously and then we'll move to mounting the new tweeters in the OEM bracket and get some of the wiring arranged.
Step 6:
So remember that tweeter housing we set aside, go grab it along with your new tweeter and the screw on backing it came with.
Drop your new tweeter in the housing, make sure it's facing the right way! I put mine in backwards at first lol.. and screw the back ring on and tighten it down, dont' worry it will stay seated! I wasn't sure at first but it works just fine.
alright so once you have both sides done go ahead and get them screwed back into the door panels. You didn't loose the OEM screws right! They are the bronze torx head ones in case you didn't put them back in their home.
dont worry about that little 1" thing it's useless now lol.
Now grab your crossovers and plug one side into the tweeters and take the rest of the unit and using gorilla glue duct tape, tape that sucker up in there nice and cleanly.
Next up we'll mount our newly assembled mids back to the door and then finish up the wiring.
Step 7:
Take your new component speakers and mount them just like the old OEM ones were. :thumbsup: Oh make sure you remove the little black ring that is left in the speaker opening it wont fit with that in there.:ben:
Now connect your crossover wires to the speaker, clip your line of speaker wire, and attach the proper sized female spade connectors so you can secure it to your speaker.
Now do this for both sides and use some gorilla glue duct tape tape all your speaker crossover wires to the inside of the panel nice and neat like and we're now ready to put the door panels back on!
Step 8:
Alright, now we have our wiring ran to the proper length, we've got our mids and tweeters mounted and wired up and we are ready to reassemble the door cards now!
Installation is the reverse of removal, take it slow and mount all of your wires back up, and your mirror switch, then carefully place the door cards back on and align the pins with the holes, once you get 1 or 2 of them going just work your way around making sure each clip is properly lined up and just give it a good smack with your hand and you'll hear everything reset. :thumbsup:
We don't need pics of this right? Good because I didn't take any lol.
Step 9:
Damn, well that was fun, at this point you'll probably want to take a quick break, very tedious work so far, and we're only 1/4 the way done lol.
Get some rest and now we're going to remove the rear seats and center console in order to get ready to run our wiring nice and tucked away.
Removing the rear bench is easy, release the seat backs and grip the front of the seats and lift sharply up and you will feel them release, then they just slide out!
YUCK! That's nasty as ****, grab your shop vac and give your car a good cleaning back there. Now this is an optional step, but I personally ripped that black rubber mat out of the car and threw it away, useless weight. CSL doesn't have it, that means we dont need it haha! It was probably 3-5lbs of mat that I threw out.
and vacuum again lol. More GARBAGE!!!
pile of crap I threw out, useless weight! DO NOT WANT!
Step 10:
Cool now we can route our wires under the back seat along the sides of the cars with all the other OEM wiring, then run it up into the trunk. :thumbsup:
repeat this for both sides of the car and now your fronts and wiring are complete!
Good time to vacuum out the trunk well too!
After you have those wires routed we are going to move on to the head unit part of the job.