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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Suspension & Braking

Suspension & Braking
Have some questions about suspension or brake setups for your E46 BMW? Get all your answers here!

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Old 06-25-2013, 08:27 PM   #1
MisterrrYu
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Rookie Brake Mistake = Losing Faith

So ever since getting an 03' 330ci as a college kid I've been trying to get more "in-touch" with my car and taking care of it personally.

My first project this summer would be changing out the pads and rotors. After learning all the necessary tools from scratch and what not (I didn't even know what allen or torque wrenches were before) and taking 5 times longer than most people, I succeeded in changing out the front two brakes and rotors. Every wall I encountered along the way made me almost choose to take it the shop, but I never had to.

After testing out the car I noticed the driver side rotor heated up a lot hotter than any of the other 3 rotors. I tried re-assembling this front right brake and double-checking the fittings. This is where my rookie mistake happened. While rescrewing the caliper back into the caliper boot with the 6mm slider/guide bolt, I made the dumbest mistake of cross-threading the caliper boot's thread with this pin. Now the caliper can't screw in tightly into the caliper boot.

I'm losing faith and I don't know what to do exactly. Are calipers expensive to replace? Should I just take it to the shop? Can I even drive my car to the shop when one of the caliper pins aren't tightened? Should I just buy a replacement caliper and continue on this DIY project? I really could use some guidance here
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:32 PM   #2
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So the hole you stripped is where the caliper bolts to the caliper bracket right?
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:33 PM   #3
MisterrrYu
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Yes
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:35 PM   #4
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You could either drill and tap new threads or get a new caliper. I wouldn't drive it until its fixed because if the caliper falls off and breaks the line you lose all your brakes.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:37 PM   #5
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Wouldn't drilling or tapping new threads weaken the structure of the bolt overall? Do you have any suggestions on where to buy new or used calipers?
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:42 PM   #6
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I think maybe I'm not correctly understanding the part you stripped, can you take a picture of it?
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:45 PM   #7
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I stripped one of the smaller holes in this image. I believe the word is "cross-threaded" while stripping is messing with the screw?
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:48 PM   #8
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Depending on where you get it, a replacement caliper would run 2-300 I would say, tops? Mine in my 328 can be had for about 150 at Napa, 50ish of which is a core. That's probably their cheap version, but does come with a new bracket anyway. But that's Napa. I think you can get them elsewhere, for about double, for the good stuff. Still though, if your one corner was heating up THAT much more than the others, then it may have been sticking anyway, and you'll need to replace it regardless. I imagine most replacements would include the bracket too. It COULD be something else doing it, but the caliper sticking seems to happen more than other things it could be. I wouldn't drive it with only one holding it in, personally.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:49 PM   #9
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You cross-threaded a hole in the caliper carrier, not the caliper. No big deal. Buy a new one along with some extra caliper pins (the thing you screwed in).
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Last edited by WDE46; 06-25-2013 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:53 PM   #10
inlinesicks
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Oh ok. So you need a new caliper bracket not a new caliper. Call your local junk yards or ebay since new ones will be pretty expensive. Also I think technically BMW calls them caliper carriers.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:55 PM   #11
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Ok so it looks like I should just try finding a new caliper carrier one way or another and I should be back in business? Thanks for all your guys help and opinions. Looks like the caliper potentially sticking will be a whole another issue.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:55 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by inlinesicks View Post
Oh ok. So you need a new caliper bracket not a new caliper. Call your local junk yards or ebay since new ones will be pretty expensive. Also I think technically BMW calls them caliper carriers.
Damn they run around $150. I would source one from a junkyard as well. It's probably one of the most robust parts on the car so I'd just find one with no rust and take it apart.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:57 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by MisterrrYu View Post
After testing out the car I noticed the driver side rotor heated up a lot hotter than any of the other 3 rotors.
I'd still say you need to check that caliper regardless. I just changed mine this morning for this exact reason. It'll heat up after you hit the brakes the first time when driving, and can lead to some nasty vibrations while driving. Though at least a new carrier would allow you to at least get the caliper back on to drive it elsewhere if needed. But definitely check it out, and make sure it's not sticking. That heat is brutal coming off one that is.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:58 PM   #14
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Ok so it looks like I should just try finding a new caliper carrier one way or another and I should be back in business? Thanks for all your guys help and opinions. Looks like the caliper potentially sticking will be a whole another issue.
You probably just need one of these:

Part # 34116750151

You take the piston out of the caliper, clean it all up. Maybe use some fine grit (800) sandpaper and smooth out the piston and reinstall it with the new O-ring after lubing it up with some brake fluid.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...50151/ES59746/
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:08 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by WDE46 View Post
You probably just need one of these:

Part # 34116750151

You take the piston out of the caliper, clean it all up. Maybe use some fine grit (800) sandpaper and smooth out the piston and reinstall it with the new O-ring after lubing it up with some brake fluid.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...50151/ES59746/
Or that I never bothered with a rebuild myself, since I got a replacement cheap through my step-brother (lifetime warranty, so worst case, I take 20 mins and change it out if it ever goes again). But good call on the rebuild option!
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:09 PM   #16
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did you try to clean up the thread by maying trying this....
that hole seems to go all the way through to the back, SO, why not turn it upside down and use a new bolt (greased up) and screw it in from the rear.
This may correct the threads. Give it a try.
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:54 PM   #17
MisterrrYu
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did you try to clean up the thread by maying trying this....
that hole seems to go all the way through to the back, SO, why not turn it upside down and use a new bolt (greased up) and screw it in from the rear.
This may correct the threads. Give it a try.
I can't turn the part upside down because it needs to be fit in a specific way
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:00 AM   #18
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I can't turn the part upside down because it needs to be fit in a specific way
He meant take it off the car and thread the bolt in the other side where the threads are not damaged. This is actually a very good idea
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:00 AM   #19
MisterrrYu
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Thanks for everyone's help btw!
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:02 AM   #20
MisterrrYu
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He meant take it off the car and thread the bolt in the other side where the threads are not damaged. This is actually a very good idea
Sorry.. I'm sort of dumb when it comes to visualizing this, it's still not fully clicking with me, if the entire hole is cross-threaded how does it change if I put the screw in an opposite way?
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