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Suspension & Braking
Have some questions about suspension or brake setups for your E46 BMW? Get all your answers here!

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Old 06-26-2013, 12:02 AM   #21
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(greased up) and screw it in from the rear.
lol
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:07 AM   #22
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Sorry let me be a little bit more clear, the reason why I find the idea of screwing it in from the rear as unviable is because this bolt is a sliding pin which the majority of it is fatter than the actual thread. Therefore it wouldn't be able to "go through the back end".

Unless I'm still misunderstanding? Sorry!

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Old 06-26-2013, 12:11 AM   #23
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Hold on a sec. Is it the pin that's messed up or the hole it goes into?
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:11 AM   #24
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The hole it goes into
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:13 AM   #25
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Ok that's what I thought. What we are saying to do is remove the caliper carrier from the car then turn it around and threat the pin into the hole from the other side.
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:15 AM   #26
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buy a reman caliper, a new carrier and call it a day. the reman caliper will come w/ new pins.

install the pins DRY. no grease. GL
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:19 AM   #27
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Ok that's what I thought. What we are saying to do is remove the caliper carrier from the car then turn it around and threat the pin into the hole from the other side.
I must truly be incompetent because I don't see how threading the pin into the hole from the other side will give the pin grip? Since the entire hole is stripped?? Or how do you thread a pin that has a sliding/smooth component to it from the opposite side? Is it possible to even flip a caliper carrier over? They only fit in one way don't they?
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:24 AM   #28
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I must truly be incompetent because I don't see how threading the pin into the hole from the other side will give the pin grip? Since the entire hole is stripped?? Or how do you thread a pin that has a sliding/smooth component to it from the opposite side? Is it possible to even flip a caliper carrier over? They only fit in one way don't they?
I don't mean put it back on the car backwards lol. Sometimes when a bolt gets cross threaded it damages the beginning of the threads but not the ones further in. So if you thread the bold through the opposite way you might be able to correct some of the damaged threads. Imagine it like a tap if you know how they work.
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:29 AM   #29
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Don't despair. The other week was the first time of installing brakes and freshly painted calipers. I ended up putting one of the brake pads backwards! Gave a really rough thunk every time the wheel rotated. Luckily I didn't even drive 10 feet before realize I screwed up. Anyways, it happens, but the most important thing is that you're trying.

I went to Autozone the other week to pick up some caliper grease and asked to check out their remanufactured brake calipers and brackets for my car. Opened the box and lo and behold. They had the BMW stamp on em. Check out Autozone and ask to see the bracket and if they have the BMW or ATE stamp on em then that might be a solution to your problem if you can't cleaning rethread your bracket. The other option is to go to Harbor Freight and get a threading kit, but all depends on how bad you ruined the threads. You might have to end up going 1 size up and I'm sure they don't make these brake caliper pins in different sizes...
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:43 AM   #30
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I don't mean put it back on the car backwards lol. Sometimes when a bolt gets cross threaded it damages the beginning of the threads but not the ones further in. So if you thread the bold through the opposite way you might be able to correct some of the damaged threads. Imagine it like a tap if you know how they work.
He's not understanding what you mean because you're leaving out a critical detail.

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I must truly be incompetent because I don't see how threading the pin into the hole from the other side will give the pin grip? Since the entire hole is stripped?? Or how do you thread a pin that has a sliding/smooth component to it from the opposite side? Is it possible to even flip a caliper carrier over? They only fit in one way don't they?
Putting it in the back side may allow you to "re-thread" the hole. We mean take the threaded end of the pin, and screw it into the wrong side of the threaded hole. So you screw it in there, and then remove it and try to screw it in from the correct side. It may reshape the damaged threads well enough to allow insertion on the correct side. It may work, but it may not if the damage is too severe. It's worth a try. Really, you don't want to do janky things with brakes. So I'd definitely just buy a new carrier.
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Old 06-26-2013, 02:19 PM   #31
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He's not understanding what you mean because you're leaving out a critical detail.



Putting it in the back side may allow you to "re-thread" the hole. We mean take the threaded end of the pin, and screw it into the wrong side of the threaded hole. So you screw it in there, and then remove it and try to screw it in from the correct side. It may reshape the damaged threads well enough to allow insertion on the correct side. It may work, but it may not if the damage is too severe. It's worth a try. Really, you don't want to do janky things with brakes. So I'd definitely just buy a new carrier.
Ah, I understand now! Yeah that sounds like a good temporary solution I might give it a try to see how the result turns out. I'll buy a new carrier though, better to be safe then sorry with parts like this eh
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:05 PM   #32
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Yeah if that bracket isnt bolted down correctly or securely it'll probably end up ruining your rotors as you can see the small clearance in between the brake and rotor when you install the bracket
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:15 PM   #33
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Thanks everyone for explaining that... the OP can also buy a bolt of matching thread from home depot to use as a "thread chaser"
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:16 PM   #34
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make sure you use caliper grease on the slide pins, i've bought cars that had the caliper rusted solid to the bracket, lol

i also grease all contact points of pads, top , bottom edge, piston, anywhere it makes co tact other than the pad itself of course
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:32 PM   #35
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I was sure to use anti-seize on all of the contact points. I'm debating between buying a remanu caliper or one at the local junkyard. Is there anything I need to look out for in regards to the junkyard one? They would have to ship it to me.
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:42 PM   #36
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not anti sieze, caliper grease, that's how it's sold, little can with brush
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:52 PM   #37
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Rookie Brake Mistake = Losing Faith

Our pins are supposed to be dry according to the Bentley manual but I greased mine in an attempt to help a squeal in reverse that I get. It didn't work.


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Old 06-26-2013, 05:56 PM   #38
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make sure you use caliper grease on the slide pins, i've bought cars that had the caliper rusted solid to the bracket, lol

i also grease all contact points of pads, top , bottom edge, piston, anywhere it makes co tact other than the pad itself of course
That's a no-no. I brought this to light several months ago. Maybe years. I forget.

Do NOT use any grease on the pins. Install them 100% dry
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Old 06-26-2013, 06:05 PM   #39
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well, i haven't done brakes on this car yet

so the slide pin is dry

and this is the same application as any other caliper?

the caliper slides on the pin for even pad pressure front and back

how does dry ensure this over grease?

is there a sleeve for non metal to metal contact?


if the pin seizes you get only pressure on piston side and rotor eventually warps from non even heat
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Old 06-26-2013, 06:27 PM   #40
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well, i haven't done brakes on this car yet

so the slide pin is dry

and this is the same application as any other caliper?

the caliper slides on the pin for even pad pressure front and back

how does dry ensure this over grease?

is there a sleeve for non metal to metal contact?


if the pin seizes you get only pressure on piston side and rotor eventually warps from non even heat
I don't think it is a metal on metal slide. I'm not entirely sure and I have done all the brakes and installed calipers twice all around. I never looked in the hole.
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