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Motorsports & Track Forum
From Auto-X to Trackday to Racing and Professional Motorsports this is the place to discuss making BMWs fast

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Old 06-27-2013, 05:32 PM   #21
zander271
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Originally Posted by Patton323I View Post
Here you go. I have pondered this before I decided to do an engine swap. It looks to be direct bolt on.

http://www.dbilas-shop.com/Products/...-M52::213.html
Wow...Wish it would work for the M54
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:07 PM   #22
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No idea. We don't have 4 cylinder E46's here.
Errr 318i's?
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Old 06-28-2013, 12:03 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by B78SYX View Post
@yournickname, you should not be so scared of your competition. However, proper RWD driving skills will be required and you should also focus on the proper tire grip. Less weight and more power will mean nothing, if you will have improper grip, even with an LSD. That means also to carefully choose your tires and design your weight distribution properly.

The rest, as you want also to keep your costs low, focus on keeping your car in top shape, mechanically....proper lubricant for the track environment, check your clutch efficiency etc.

I also have a rethorical question..more as a curiosity...would the DME/ECU prevent you of having your engine running, if you remove your electrical starter? I know that, if the starter fails, you can still start your car, by pushing it. I wonder if you can just remove it completely (it will save over 5kg of weight), while using just a small battery (again, to save weight) as the entire electricity requirements would be covered by the alternator, while starting the car by being pushed and keep it running, during the entire track time. Let's not forget rally cars (or at least formula 1 cars) do not have electrical starters and I think the main reason is weight saving.
Correct me if I am wrong...
Interesting point of view. My opinion that it's ok only if you have somebody to help you to start your engine. But if it's practice and nobody near you (track days in Russia are not so popular like in US/EU) it could be a problem...

I'm planning to use Michelin Pilot Sport Cup as tyres and KW ClubSport as basic suspension upgrade with light weight suspension components. Also 4-pot Alcons with 332 brake rotors as front brakes so I assume that I'll have normal grip and steering and small bonus as RWD car between FWD.
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Old 06-28-2013, 12:19 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Patton323I View Post
Here you go. I have pondered this before I decided to do an engine swap. It looks to be direct bolt on.

http://www.dbilas-shop.com/Products/...-M52::213.html
Thanks but there's description that ITB is for M50-M52 engine. I'll write to DBilas about it. Maybe this solution will fit M54 too.
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Old 06-28-2013, 12:25 AM   #25
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Tomato, To-mah-toe. It basically means the same damn thing. Individual, Independent, whatever... Grammar Nazis.

I'll stick with my way...

Also the meaning of it still makes sense either way. For instance: I have 6 independent throttle bodies. OR: I have 6 individual throttle bodies. The meaning is still the same. However, the meaning is not the same when you change the word Individual or Independent for say, Ice.
For example: I have 6 Ice Throttle Bodies. That simply makes no sense at all. Unless of course you literally mean that the throttle bodies are in fact made from ice.

Any way direct translation from russian back to english will be something like "multi throttle intake" So my main point of view - to get understand what did you mean because my english skills are not as good as I wish they are and I really don't care what exactly is ITB (independent or individual). Wikipedia will help any way
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Old 06-28-2013, 12:44 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Patton323I View Post
Tomato, To-mah-toe. It basically means the same damn thing. Individual, Independent, whatever... Grammar Nazis.
I'll stick with my way...
no it's not the same. it's not like everyone else in any racing/car circles are pronouncing the word differently.
i not trying to give you a hard time, but just help you use the correct terminology. "ITB" is short for Individual Throttle Bodies.
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Old 06-28-2013, 01:12 AM   #27
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Hi there.

First of all I'd like to bring my apologies and say SORRY for my noob questions but this is only way to gain some expirience in this question.

I'm looking for a cheap car for trackdays and participating in local championships. My opinion is that BMW E46 320 - best way to spend some free cash Due to regulations of our local championship I have some restrictions to meet class requirements. These restrictions are:
1. Non-turbo gasoline engine with volume not more than 2.2l.
2. Weight - not lighter than 1030 kg with roll cage (some restrictions here also).
3. Any intake modification with using nitro, methanol, etc ex. water.

So I can modify engine almost as far as I can with these regulations
And here becomes my main question: what is better for use on race track - m52b20 or m54b22? p54b20 will be better for sure but we are talking about cheap track days car M54B22

Which engine frome this couple has better "race performance" if these words are acceptable for these engines?
Which engine has more tuning parts to choose from?
Which engine is cheaper to tune and maintain?
This is first part of questions to understand what exactly I want to buy.
Thanks for answers
OP, am I reading #3 correctly, Are you aloud to use Nitro Methane, or Nitrous Oxide ? Which one.
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Last edited by Rob43; 06-28-2013 at 11:21 AM.
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Old 06-28-2013, 02:12 AM   #28
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OP, am I reading #3 correctly, Are you aloud to use Nitro Methane, or Nitrous Oxide ? Which one.
Unfortunately I cannot use any liquids on intake.

About M54B30 - it's better to buy M3 in this case but I need to stay under 2.2l non-turbo engines to meet class requirements.
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:06 AM   #29
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"1. Non-turbo gasoline engine with volume not more than 2.2l."
Can you supercharge it ?
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:38 AM   #30
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"1. Non-turbo gasoline engine with volume not more than 2.2l."
Can you supercharge it ?
Unfortunately no. Just atmosphere presure allowed.
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Old 06-28-2013, 11:23 AM   #31
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Unfortunately I cannot use any liquids on intake.

About M54B30 - it's better to buy M3 in this case but I need to stay under 2.2l non-turbo engines to meet class requirements.
That was a misprint, I meant to write M54B22.
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Nitrous is a little trickier than boost, but it's not the spray that kills motors, it's STUPIDITY!!
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Old 06-29-2013, 12:09 AM   #32
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I wouldn't invest time or money until you have an LSD and a chassis reinforcement kit such as the TMS product.
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