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Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > E46 Convertible

E46 Convertible
The E46 vert forum. Talk about dropping your E46 top here.

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Old 07-16-2013, 10:30 PM   #21
avneet
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I bit the bullet and made an appointment for next Thursday with the stealership to diagnose the problem. I'll then report back and try to fix the issue myself and save the major portion they would ding me on. I figure diagnosis should be a couple hundred on the highest side (they probably will assume they can keep it lower and ding me on repairs not knowing I'm repairing it myself).

Hopefully my cost can at least save others from costs in the future with this same problem.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:52 AM   #22
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Ruslan is having a very similar issue and has sent me a few videos via PM as he tries to diagnose it. This is the latest video after the pump was replaced:



It appears the main lift cylinders are not working to lower and raise the top. At the end of the video you can see the top struggling to raise out of the top. The system is not leaking fluid, and there are no CVM codes, so I'm stumped what this could be. My best guess would be the solenoid that controls the main lift cylinders is not working properly... yet to change it is a lot of work just for a "hunch".
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:19 AM   #23
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details about the valve block

Quote:
Originally Posted by taylor192 View Post
Ruslan is having a very similar issue and has sent me a few videos via PM as he tries to diagnose it. This is the latest video after the pump was replaced:



It appears the main lift cylinders are not working to lower and raise the top. At the end of the video you can see the top struggling to raise out of the top. The system is not leaking fluid, and there are no CVM codes, so I'm stumped what this could be. My best guess would be the solenoid that controls the main lift cylinders is not working properly... yet to change it is a lot of work just for a "hunch".
The valve blocks fail fairly rarely, but that is a possibility. If there is a small bypass inside the valve block, then there may not be enough pressure left in Ruslan's case for the main lift cylinders to lift the top when it is close to the windshield. That's where the highest amount of pressure is needed. It could also be an internal leak in one of the main lifts, but those are less likely than an internal leak in the valve block.

Lifting the rear bow or the case cover, or even lifting the top from the stored position is much easier for the system.

One more piece of info: if people have waited too long to have their hydraulic cylinder seals upgraded, then it is possible for the system to suck in small remnants of the seals and get them lodged inside the valve block. The effect of this is normally a very slow movement in a specific part of the top's sequence.

Ruslan should play "musical solenoids": swap all three solenoids in the valve block and see if the same problem persists... :-)

Klaus

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Old 07-25-2013, 07:01 AM   #24
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How did your appointment turn out avneet ?
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:36 PM   #25
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She's there right now. Dropped off at 12:00pm. So far I've been charged for one hour of labor just under $200. I hope that finds the problem, but he said convertible tops sometimes need more time. Hopefully will know more tomorrow. Until then, I'm not liking the 2012 535i I got as a loaner. It's huge! My car is so tiny compared to this thing. Though I LOVE the features.
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:35 AM   #26
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I can't take the suspense any longer.
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:41 PM   #27
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As of now, they are still waiting for their convertible specialist to free up to spend the one hour on my car. I'm happy at least it looks like they won't be wasting that hour (and hopefully find what's wrong within it).
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:46 PM   #28
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So I'm waiting at the dealership for them to put it back together. They still aren't 100% sure, but they narrowed it down to 2 possibilities. ($450 per fix) cost to fix each. I said no way of course, esp since they aren't sure.

1. The wire harness in the trunk bend on the right shows signs of frayed wires when wiggled. They are sure wires are broken in there (though they never opened it). Part of the $450 is to open it.

2. They showed me the hydraulic fluid motor for the trunk lid which is besides the hydraulic fluid (post a pic later for an idea of where it is). They know it works, but its not getting enough power to lift the lid. They will check here next if the first fix doesn't work. But that motor seems to be the problem. The question is why it isn't getting the necessary power (since they aren't sure if option 1 is the reason).

They think the reason the motor isn't getting power is because of the wire issue. I'm going to fix that myself with a soldering iron. Also found out my control arms are dangerously bad. I knew they were since my car shakes whenever I turn at fast speeds, but mechanic told me they won't last much longer (ready to break). That I'll take to my local mechanic.
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:33 AM   #29
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Re: Convertible Stops at Trunk Lid

Ruslan tried a different hydraulic pump with no success... I think, hopefully he comes in.

Klaus suggested playing musical solenoids, maybe the solenoid that controls lifting the top is bad. There are 3 solenoids on the valve block, switching them looks easy.... once the top is removed from the car.

It's too bad you're not closer, I'd help you give it a shot.



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Old 08-01-2013, 03:18 PM   #30
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I opened up the wire harness in the trunk, and oh my god I've never seen so many open wires. I don't think there is one wire that is not frayed. I'm going to try and solder all these by the weekend (hopefully all today). I can't believe there haven't been any major shorts (unless the lid not opening is one haha). Look at this picture and tell me you aren't as surprised as I am.

I'll definitely be checking all my fuses after I finish to see if any was blown from before.

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Old 08-02-2013, 06:50 PM   #31
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Sadly that was not it. It only fixed my trunk not closing, trunk lights, and license plate lights. Hard not to feel down. But I will strive on! Next time I can get around to it, I'm taking apart the trunk and scoping out the hydraulic pump (since dealers pointed to it anyway).
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:23 PM   #32
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Wooowwwwwww. Talk about frayed wires. What issue did that fix with the trunk? The lid wouldn't go into the trunk? It's looking to be more difficult than expected.
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:12 PM   #33
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If fixed: If I closed the trunk with my doors unlocked, it kept opening the second it would latch automatically. Only way around this was to lock the doors first and then shut the trunk. Also the trunk would open if my doors were unlocked and I was driving over even the slightest bump. Plus smaller issues like the lights in the trunk not working and the license plate light not working at night. I suggest any e46 owner to check those wires. You don't have to cut that harness like I did. I realized after it just disconnects from the trunk easy. Check your wires for sure.
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:27 PM   #34
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I'll give that a look see. Where did you say it was. On the right side ? behind the carpet ?
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Old 08-02-2013, 10:54 PM   #35
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Re: Convertible Stops at Trunk Lid

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Originally Posted by avneet View Post
Sadly that was not it. It only fixed my trunk not closing, trunk lights, and license plate lights. Hard not to feel down. But I will strive on! Next time I can get around to it, I'm taking apart the trunk and scoping out the hydraulic pump (since dealers pointed to it anyway).
If your issue is the same as the video I posted then the hydraulic pump has already been tried. Don't waste your time and money.

I get you're trying everything to avoid removing the top from the car, yet the valve block and solenoids are your best bet to look at. Find a friend and pull the top, it's not that hard.

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Old 08-03-2013, 12:11 PM   #36
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No my problem isn't like the video. His lid actually moves. Mine doesn't move at all after the back part (u shaped) part lifts up. I can lift it up with my hand during the sequence, and when I let go it drops back down about half way.

jjamal, it's actually in a really simple spot. Just open your trunk, and look at by the right hinge connecting the trunk to your car. There is a black tubing going from the trunk to your car. You can pull out the part connected to the trunk to see the wires. They should be broken about halfway down that black tubing.
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Old 08-29-2013, 06:49 PM   #37
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So I spent $60 bucks getting the fault codes read. Came back with 2. They have no idea based off the codes and want to charge to look per hour until they find something, so back to square one.

12 CVM: Open control button permanently active
67 CVM: Cowl does not move upwards
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Old 09-13-2013, 12:44 PM   #38
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It just got stranger. I went into the trunk today to check the fluid level. Put the top into the lid compartment, and shut it like the instructions say. When I look at the fluid, it hasn't moved down. It shows this -





I've never added fluid to it in it's 13 years of existence, yet the level didn't drop into the circle when I put the hood into the lid compartment. What else could this mean? Maybe the hydraulic fluid isn't even being connected to the top anymore?
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:30 PM   #39
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1. The level is too high. With the top stored it should be in the circle.
2. The level won't drop when storing the top. It should increase as you're putting the main lift and bow tension cylinders into their fully compressed position, thus sending all fluid back to the pump.
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:57 PM   #40
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What's your next suggestion? I'm hoping the dealer didn't somehow top it off when they were trying to find out what was wrong. I'm sure they knew about it enough to not do that. Otherwise, I've never filled it before so it should have no reason to be that high unless the dealer did it or something else is going on.
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