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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 07-09-2013, 02:51 AM   #61
jayb328i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mango View Post
You should learn how to use the multi-quote button. It's the middle blue button.
Unfortunately I am not using your PC so I cannot use YOUR blue button. All of mine are black. Can you tell me where to get a blue button.
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:35 AM   #62
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mine are blue - maybe get a better laptop
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:58 AM   #63
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For the love of god



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Unfortunately I am not using your PC so I cannot use YOUR blue button. All of mine are black. Can you tell me where to get a blue button.
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:40 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by mce46 View Post
will definitely do a hand crank...after placing oil thru plug holes. How much oil must idrop into each cylinder?
The oil in each cylinder is a good idea. I always squirted about a teaspoonful into each cylinder when I wintered my MR2. But, when you hand crank (with EFI relay removed), you want to do it with the spark plugs removed. This will make it a lot easier to crank and will splash the walls with a coating of oil.

If this goes well, then a couple of 3-second cranks with the starter and then replace the plugs (now is a convenient time to install brand new ones) and EFI relay. But make sure the exhaust is pointed out of the garage when it fires up: there will be a lot of smoke! LOL

Don't forget the cabin air filter is probably as moldy/clogged as the interior and so is the engine air filter.

I'd also consider lubricating just about everything that moves that I could get to (and even some that don't seem to move, like Axle boots), bushings, etc.
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Old 07-09-2013, 04:26 PM   #65
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Excuse the repost, but this may be the one time when this guy has the right idea

Luke
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:04 AM   #66
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amazing video! :)

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Originally Posted by lmr2wil View Post
Excuse the repost, but this may be the one time when this guy has the right idea

Luke
Thanks for that video Luke!

I picked up a new key from peter pan bmw in burlingame this morning! (transponder/remote key $181.26) Amazed at how fast they got my key when i ordered it just the day before.

Anyway, yeah that's definitely one fast - and entertaining way to clean a car...but i'm doing it the hard and boring way.

Removed moldings, seats, center console, carpet etc., stuffed it behind wagon straight to a self service car wash. Pre-sprayed with carpet cleaner, set to foam scrub, hi pressure rinse, hi volume air blower til almost dry, then set it to completely dry under sun.

Once dry sprayed lysol front and back.

Re-installing tomorrow then prep for start up!
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:12 AM   #67
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multi quote feature...Thanks for the tip mango

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You should learn how to use the multi-quote button. It's the middle blue button.
multi quote feature...Thanks for the tip Mr. Mango.
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:39 AM   #68
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Thanks for the infrormation mr. sunset...will document start up by video

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Originally Posted by sunsetcoast View Post
The oil in each cylinder is a good idea. I always squirted about a teaspoonful into each cylinder when I wintered my MR2. But, when you hand crank (with EFI relay removed), you want to do it with the spark plugs removed. This will make it a lot easier to crank and will splash the walls with a coating of oil.

If this goes well, then a couple of 3-second cranks with the starter and then replace the plugs (now is a convenient time to install brand new ones) and EFI relay. But make sure the exhaust is pointed out of the garage when it fires up: there will be a lot of smoke! LOL

Don't forget the cabin air filter is probably as moldy/clogged as the interior and so is the engine air filter.

I'd also consider lubricating just about everything that moves that I could get to (and even some that don't seem to move, like Axle boots), bushings, etc.
Thanks for yet another sensible tip mr. sunset...will document start up by video.

Having almost no information on car's history I really cant be too confident about the start up day. But with the combined information all of you had sent here I choose to be pro-active (but will continue to pray as Gabe suggested).

Finally about the query of why it was stored for so long?
Nice try with the cheezy op in jail theory chismosa fellas but previous owner was "supposedly" deported? Car was parked in brothers place of business. Since it was parked close to an entry/exit area, the City would not renew business license until car was removed.

So i removed it - including all the mold and mildew

Anyway...thanks again to all that made time to post!
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:21 AM   #69
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previous owner was "supposedly" deported? Car was parked in brothers place of business. Since it was parked close to an entry/exit area, the City would not renew business license until car was removed.

So i removed it
So you have all the correct paper work in order for it? Not going to drive though a check and find youself on the side of the road after being tasered and shot?
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Old 07-10-2013, 04:54 AM   #70
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skepticism w incomplete response re: post most recent plete reply - my bad.

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So you have all the correct paper work in order for it? N going to drive though a check and find youself on the side of the road after being tasered and shot?

Actually I did hear about those check points and bodies found on the side of the road! But I passed thru that checkpoint unscathed because I presented the same paperwork BMW requires prior to allowing any key purchase.

Last edited by mce46; 07-10-2013 at 09:40 AM. Reason: incomplete thought
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:22 AM   #71
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Hi David,

Oh no sir that was not me at the side of the road riddled with bullet holes and taser burns.

I went thru that checkpoint unscaved, i showed them the same paperwork i presented to the BMW parts department for proof of custodianship.as proof of that granted me allow the purchase of a new transponder key with [p
Yes you mentioned a new key above, glad things are working out.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:13 AM   #72
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How do i prep an e46 prior to starting it up after 9 years in storage?

In for video! Good luck op


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Old 07-10-2013, 08:51 AM   #73
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http://www.1z-usa.com/AC_Cleaner.html <<< moldy vent soloution
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Pre 03 AUX IN DIY

"Also I seen a honda with an intercooler on the front that i wanted on my car. I know i dont have a turbo or supercharger ,but can I still but one on my car , I think it would atleast get me 10 or so hp."

Last edited by johngreaver; 07-10-2013 at 08:52 AM.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:09 AM   #74
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OP...sorry I am coming late to the party, but you need to clean the car wtih something specifically designed for eliminating mold. All the things you just mentioned will kill the surface mold, but not the actual spores...and it will come back. This is coming from someone who had a mold and animal infestation so badly in my new house that I had to gut it to the studs. Mold in high concentrations (which you obviously have) is serious stuff that could permanently damaged your lungs
http://www.lung.org/healthy-air/home...-dampness.html

So please think carefully about cleaning it thoroughly with something like http://www.amazon.com/Sporicidin-Enz.../dp/B004GW5M9C.

But I am happy that you are rescuing such a gorgeous car. Good luck and in for video!
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:39 AM   #75
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I wonder how effective using a mold fogger while running the ac would be http://biocidelabs.com/Mold_Bomb_Fogger.html
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"Also I seen a honda with an intercooler on the front that i wanted on my car. I know i dont have a turbo or supercharger ,but can I still but one on my car , I think it would atleast get me 10 or so hp."
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:22 PM   #76
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I think it would atleast get me 10 or so hp.




Please explain the actual science behind this theory?
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:32 PM   #77
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I think it would atleast get me 10 or so hp.




Please explain the actual science behind this theory?
I didnt say the quote on the bottom a some guy on another forum asked me that once lol. It was one of the most retarded things I ever heard.
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"Also I seen a honda with an intercooler on the front that i wanted on my car. I know i dont have a turbo or supercharger ,but can I still but one on my car , I think it would atleast get me 10 or so hp."
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:06 PM   #78
sunsetcoast
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you need to clean the car wtih something specifically designed for eliminating mold. All the things you just mentioned will kill the surface mold, but not the actual spores...and it will come back.
Sage advice. You don't want the hassle of reinstalling the whole interior only to have to take it apart a short time later (and, of course, reinstall).

I had a car that had some mold just from having left the windows open during a thunderstorm. The OTC retail stuff (tried lots, including several "home remedies") would make it look clean and smell clean when they were finished. No matter what we tried, it always came back 2 days later... We ended up taking the seats and carpet to a shop that specializes in clean-up (ServePro, etc.) and let them work on it for a couple of days. Had we done this first, it would have saved lots of time (the car was not driveable for weeks), lots of trips to the store for various "miracle" solutions, plus the cost of the stuff we bought.

You may want to consider this route. They will also make sure that everything is completely dry before saying the job is done...not easy in the high humidity that much of the country has had recently, even with an industrial-sized fan blowing on everything. Since you save them a house call and they can work on it at their convenience, the cost should be very reasonable.

If you have access to the proper chemicals and application equipment, you can DIY. The final step will require a high-volume, high-velocity fan with a source of "fresh" air to get everything dry.

Eliminating 9 years' worth of the stuff is likely to require multiple applications. The seat padding and carpet backing seem to be prime breeding grounds and their thickness/density make it difficult to clean completely and then dry properly. The motors on the seats (if present) also pose a bit of a challenge as they aren't designed to be soaked.

If you DIY, don't bother with wishful thinking. Just do the clean-dry cycle twice. Then lock it all up in an enclosed space (simulating a car with rolled up windows) for a week. Then come back and see/smell everything. If it isn't fresh, then, as they say, "try, try again."

GL.
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Old 07-10-2013, 04:10 PM   #79
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I didnt say the quote on the bottom a some guy on another forum asked me that once lol. It was one of the most retarded things I ever heard.
Got it
Like it
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:19 AM   #80
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with cobwebs, molds and mildew ...currently being detailed but with no attempts to start...until i compile all your tips...

May take a few more weeks until start day leaving more than enough time to do whats best before startup.

Another good reason why anyone before me was unable to start her up is because previous owner lost all keys. So soon as my name is in the pink then i can order a key.

Until then thank you so very much to all of you who made time to post and in case you have more to add please by all means...

Miguel
Quote:
Originally Posted by choxor View Post
Epic e46 cold start. How do you plan on cleaning that thing out. I can only imagine how much mold is growing in places you can't see. I'd strip the interior completely out to clean it.
UPDATE from Alcatraz

thanks for mentioning about the aerosol spray, choxor's comment made me explore nooks and cranies further, sprayed the entire car interior with anti sporicidal aerosol including air vents, passages thru firewall, etc. as a lot had suggested and mentioned about toxicity and detrimental health issues - thanks.

Will post more soon including the video on startup -

Pre-start up

Changed oil, removed old plugs (pita removing boot on each), poured in each cylinder a spoon full of mystery oil, let sit for an hour or 2 then cranked a few times (did not hand crank). Let oil sit overnight, cranked again the next day to ensure piston ring re-sits well onto walls and remove as much mystery oil. Installed new plugs, re-inserted old coils and removed fuel pump fuse.

Gyst:

1st attempt: No start (to my excitement i forgot to re-install FP fuse!)
2nd attempt: coughed up once hmmm...oh i forgot to flush fuel line!
Fuel tank had about 1/8 old fuel that i did not remove but just added half a tank of fresh fuel to dilute. (I bled the fuel lines about 6 or 7 times thru the nipple on fuel rail covering with an old towel - dont forget to wear eye protection and gloves) - 1st bleeding, fuel had weak fuel odor and strong foul smell. 5th until the 7th gradually changed to the usual strong fuel odor.
3rd attempt: Fired right up! odometer spiked up to 1500 then stayed on 1000 for about 3 - 5 minutes then went down to 700 and stabilized to 650 +,-

more pictures and video to follow...thanks again!
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